Bigshankhank
New member
Probably 4 years ago my factory (non-JBL) stereo stopped putting out sound. It still powers on, all the buttons work, just no sound. I stuck a Bluetooth speaker in there and just listen to podcasts and internet radio anyway so no huge sacrifice. However I find myself carrying more passengers lately and I suppose my solo speaker act will have to go and get the OEM system working again.
I recall reading back when this first happened that if a speaker goes bad, the factory amp shuts down to protect itself thereby killing the sound. Ok, interesting if true. Is this BS or is the straight truth?
IF the above is true, how do I diagnose the bad speaker? Working on cars is my jam, I’ve pulled door panels and cards for speaker upgrades before but not being a genuine wiring technician my experience was always unplug the old/plug in the new and move on. Is there a simple way to do this without opening up every body panel one at a time to check the speaker? If that’s the way, so be it, but if it can be avoided I’d prefer to.
If the above is not true, despite having been written on the internet, what’s the best way to diagnose this? I’m not an audiophile so I don’t need to be measuring stuff in ohms, although I would like to replace the head unit with something Bluetooth compatible. But again if I can get away with a cheap fix that’s all I’m shooting for.
Thanks for the insight.
I recall reading back when this first happened that if a speaker goes bad, the factory amp shuts down to protect itself thereby killing the sound. Ok, interesting if true. Is this BS or is the straight truth?
IF the above is true, how do I diagnose the bad speaker? Working on cars is my jam, I’ve pulled door panels and cards for speaker upgrades before but not being a genuine wiring technician my experience was always unplug the old/plug in the new and move on. Is there a simple way to do this without opening up every body panel one at a time to check the speaker? If that’s the way, so be it, but if it can be avoided I’d prefer to.
If the above is not true, despite having been written on the internet, what’s the best way to diagnose this? I’m not an audiophile so I don’t need to be measuring stuff in ohms, although I would like to replace the head unit with something Bluetooth compatible. But again if I can get away with a cheap fix that’s all I’m shooting for.
Thanks for the insight.
