1999 4Runner general maintenance/upgrades

[runi9]

After all these years, I have finally found someone willing to go through repairs for my 4runner. They agreed to either just do the work because they love working on cars OR they can show me what to do and supervise me do the repairs. With this great opportunity, I figured I should go all out and replace as much as possible.

My car is 1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 - 3.4L 3378cc

Here is what I was thinking:

1. fix P0446 error code
^ The engine light on my 4Runner is currently on and this is the code it gives. So, I figure we should start with this.

2. window motor for front driver and passenger doors
Is this all I need?

2a. left side
85720-35080 Genuine Toyota Part)

2b. right side
85710-35090 Genuine Toyota Part

If the above is correct, where is a good place I can buy these from because the links above show the items as discontinued.

3. seat belt
73210-35600-E0 - Toyota Parts Deal

4. car stereo, speakers
Just a moment...
Just a moment...

I know nothing about car audio and I just did a "best speakers", "best car radio" search to get the above results. If there are much better options for a similar price (or cheaper) than above, please let me know. The guy helping me said that when we take off the dash, we might as well replace the stock radio and update the speakers since we will be doing the window motors (if we can find the correct parts).

5. hazard light fell in
I don't see a hazard light when I search "https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/", so I'm not sure where to find the replacement part..?

6. rear windshield wiper blade
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...&year=1999&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

7. AC control knobs
What do I type in to search for these? The knobs on my 4Runner are extremely difficult to turn.

8. fix nail in tire
I just noticed a nail in the tire from about three days ago. Anything special I need to get to fix this?

9. antenna
There don't seem to be many "best antenna" reviews, so any advice here for a trusted brand/product?

10. anything extra?
Is there anything extra that I should go ahead and take care of and either update and/or replace since I have this opportunity? I was thinking:

10a. brakes (Wagner QS Brake Pads and Wagner Standard Rotor)
10b. air filter
10c. headlights (Fahren Termitor LEDs)
10d. spark plugs (OEM specified only, from Denso or NGK)
10e. suspension, suspension bushings and sway bars
^ I'm not sure what to get from the below page:

suspension search
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/pag...extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&keywords=suspension

sway bar search
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/pag...=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&keywords=sway bar

10f. dash cam (Viofo A329?)
10g. starter ?
^ The car doesn't always start up right away and feels like it wants to die sometimes. I'm not sure if this is the starter, but I'll ask the car enthusiast when I see them again.

I hope that covered everything, but if it didn't, please let me know what I'm missing. Also, yes, I did consider just purchasing a new or used car, I can't see myself buying a new car and I just don't have the know how to safely purchase a used car without getting scammed. Thank you!

 

[phattyduck]

After all these years, I have finally found someone willing to go through repairs for my 4runner. They agreed to either just do the work because they love working on cars OR they can show me what to do and supervise me do the repairs. With this great opportunity, I figured I should go all out and replace as much as possible.

My car is 1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 - 3.4L 3378cc

Here is what I was thinking:

1. fix P0446 error code
^ The engine light on my 4Runner is currently on and this is the code it gives. So, I figure we should start with this.

2. window motor for front driver and passenger doors
Is this all I need?

2a. left side
85720-35080 Genuine Toyota Part)

2b. right side
85710-35090 Genuine Toyota Part

If the above is correct, where is a good place I can buy these from because the links above show the items as discontinued.

For #1 - check for a cracked evap canister in the engine bay. They can crack right near the lower seam where it i sonically welded at the factory. You can seal it up with RTV or replace the whole unit if you find that issue. Don't throw away the old parts until you KNOW that is the fix (if you get a new one - then save all the VSVs...). Might also be a bad vacuum hose in that system.

For #2 - window motors rarely go bad, so it may be another issue (say, master window switch bad from water). Check carefully before dumping a bunch of $$$ here.

#3 - what's the issue with the belt? If it is slow to return, try cleaning it first. If it is ripped, you can also get it rebuilt instead of fully replaced.

#4 - wait on stereo stuff as long as what you have is currently working. Its an easy DIY with whatever you want from Crutchfield in the future.

#5 - Do you mean the switch on the dash? Easy to get to with no tools - pull UP on e-brake/cupholder surround, pull up/back on shifter surround, pull straight back on stereo/HVAC surround, starting at the bottom and work your way up. See if its broken or just dislodged.

#7 - AC knobs are fully mechanical on a '99 SR5. You are moving doors/valves/cables with those knobs. Unless it is so hard it feels like something might break, you may just be used to electronic controls in most other vehicles. Limiteds and 01/02 models are electric and 'easier'

#9 - Look up the "Tacoma whip" mod if you want a fixed/manual antenna. The power antenna may be fixable. OEM is expensive (and I'm not sure its still available). If you do get a new power unit or fix your current one, make sure it stays clean and lubed with a dry lube (graphite or PTFE based).

#10+ - There are a million possible things that can be fixed/modded/repaired/whatever - all depending on the current condition of your truck. The only "must" is new front lower ball joints with new OEM parts (from a dealer, whether local or online). Follow the torque specs for the specific parts you get (there are three different versions of the 'small' bolts that hold the ball joint to the knuckle).

-Charlie

 

[runi9]

For #1 - check for a cracked evap canister in the engine bay. They can crack right near the lower seam where it i sonically welded at the factory. You can seal it up with RTV or replace the whole unit if you find that issue. Don't throw away the old parts until you KNOW that is the fix (if you get a new one - then save all the VSVs...). Might also be a bad vacuum hose in that system.

I will save this paragraph on my phone and show it before we begin the repairs.

For #2 - window motors rarely go bad, so it may be another issue (say, master window switch bad from water). Check carefully before dumping a bunch of $$$ here.

I don't know how to check, so this will be something I will have to ask the person helping me. Is there anything in particular you wanted to be sure was checked.

#3 - what's the issue with the belt? If it is slow to return, try cleaning it first. If it is ripped, you can also get it rebuilt instead of fully replaced.

It is not able to be pulled out at all. It's stuck. The mechanic shop I usually go to pulled the entire thing out and said I need a new one.

#4 - wait on stereo stuff as long as what you have is currently working. Its an easy DIY with whatever you want from Crutchfield in the future.

I wanted to get it done now because the mechanic said you might as well go ahead and update the audio and add some speakers while we have the dash off. What I have now works, but it's annoying to not have Bluetooth to be able to listen to anything that appears on my Android phone.

#5 - Do you mean the switch on the dash? Easy to get to with no tools - pull UP on e-brake/cupholder surround, pull up/back on shifter surround, pull straight back on stereo/HVAC surround, starting at the bottom and work your way up. See if its broken or just dislodged.

I don't know how to do what you're referring to here and I don't see any Youtube videos explaining it. This is the only video I found for the hazard switch:
- YouTube

That entire switch fell completely into the dash panel.

#7 - AC knobs are fully mechanical on a '99 SR5. You are moving doors/valves/cables with those knobs. Unless it is so hard it feels like something might break, you may just be used to electronic controls in most other vehicles. Limiteds and 01/02 models are electric and 'easier'

I've had this 4Runner for over a decade, so I am familiar with how it's supposed to feel. It was never this difficult to adjust before. It is getting stuck likely because of old age, I assume.

#9 - Look up the "Tacoma whip" mod if you want a fixed/manual antenna. The power antenna may be fixable. OEM is expensive (and I'm not sure its still available). If you do get a new power unit or fix your current one, make sure it stays clean and lubed with a dry lube (graphite or PTFE based).

Are you referring to this:

I really wish there was a text write up because solely relying on a video is very inconvenient. I think this is the only part I would need, yes?

86300-35090 antenna
Antenna Assembly with Holder #86300-35090 | Autoparts.toyota.com

new front lower ball joints with new OEM parts

I ran a search here:
1999 Toyota 4Runner Parts - ToyotaPartsDeal.com

Are you referring to these two parts?
- 43340-39325 Genuine Toyota Part)
- https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...&year=1999&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

Other items I forgot in my initial post:

1. door locks
# I don't know how I forgot about this, but the automatic door locks also do not work properly. I've already showed this to my mechanic a while ago and he said that it would be expensive to fix and maybe, just leave it since I can always lock them by hand individually. But now that I have someone to help me, I don't have to worry about the labor cost as much. Any thoughts you have for this?

2. finicky door lock mechanism
The door lock mechanism itself is finicky. A few months ago, the ignition switch failed and had to be replaced. When that was fixed, the mechanic gave me a new separate set of keys only for the ignition. So, I had a key for the ignition and a separate key for opening the doors.

Because the door lock mechanism was also failing, my mechanic said to try to have a locksmith made me a new door key since the old one was wearing down. I did and that key was working ok for a few months, but it is getting increasing annoying to use as it seems like the door lock itself is failing. Should I get new door locks for all the doors?

3. peeling steering wheel
The steering wheel is peeling. I bought a cover for it and I thought that would fix it, but when it rains, the black material still gets all over my hands and soils my clothes from the higher humidity. I can't think of any other way to fix this than to replace the entire steering wheel..?

 

[phattyduck]

If windows AND door locks are failing and intermittent, I would check the wiring between the driver's door and the body. Wires can easily break with age/use where it bends and cause all sorts of problems. A bit labor intensive to fix correctly (you have to replace the whole section of wire where it bends for any bad/broken wires - no repairs in the 'bend' area) but parts are cheap...

edit: Search the forums like this: Alternate Search for T4R - 3rd Gen Section

-Charlie

 

[Carbineone]

Looking forward to some mods too.

 

[Dandan]

Thanks, very thorough and useful!

 

[runi9]

Just a little update. So, we had one session. This was much more intense than I thought, but I learned some things, but will need a lot more practice to actually be a bit more relaxed trying this.

I learned how to line up the legs of the lift under the 4runner. I was reminded a lot to not place the legs on the fuel pan. Go next to it instead. The wheels are heavy! Go in a star pattern to remove/put on the lugs. Actually, my brake pads AND rotors were fine and he said I didn't need to change anything, but I had him just go through the ropes with me anyway, so I can get experience. I can't go over the entire process, since I didn't remember it all, but I remember a few things.

There is a nut behind the rotor that is hard to reach and the guy had to use a flat ratcheting wrench, because the brake lines seemed to be blocking. That was a special, expensive tool (over $500 just for that one wrench) and it actually broke! Glad to have help there, because I would have been stuck without assistance. The videos I've seen have not gone over this at all. So, this reaffirmed my hunch to never go at it alone, because you could get stuck and get into a big problem.

Besides this, he said I could bleed my brake lines, but that would take more time than I had and if I messed it up, the car would have to be towed to the dealership, because only they can fix that. Meaning it would be very expensive if we messed that up. But he said, it should be done when I can get to it one day. Overall, the entire process took about 4 and 1/2 hours and I only got to look at one wheel, so I need to return and try the same process with the other three wheels.

Things I would like to differently this time include:

1. parts
^ Is there not a good, reputable website for the more high quality parts that are recommended on auto parts review sites, but not carried in the local O'reillys, Napa, etc auto stores? I couldn't find any good site when I was searching for my parts, so I just went with whatever was available locally. Of course, I returned it all since he said my parts were just fine. But still, I'd like to at least, have more options from now on.

I may still stick with local parts, because I was able to return all the parts I bought locally really easily. If I purchased them online, I assume the return process would have been a much bigger headache.

2. clothing
^ I showed up in gym clothes and that was a mistake. I got cut up and got oil/dirt all over my upper body. Is there any specific auto clothing that I should get? I was thinking of going on base to get some old Navy coveralls or old army camos and using them, since I assume they should be tough. I already bought some random thin auto gloves that you use when changing oil, but I'm unsure if there is a best brand that everyone loves? I don't want oil on me again since that took a long time to scrub out and I don't think it is supposed to touch the skin anyway from what I read on one of the oil container labels.

I may get a hard hat and knee pads as well since I banged my head and knees a lot.

Thank you.

 

[phattyduck]

1. parts
^ Is there not a good, reputable website for the more high quality parts that are recommended on auto parts review sites, but not carried in the local O'reillys, Napa, etc auto stores? I couldn't find any good site when I was searching for my parts, so I just went with whatever was available locally. Of course, I returned it all since he said my parts were just fine. But still, I'd like to at least, have more options from now on.

I may still stick with local parts, because I was able to return all the parts I bought locally really easily. If I purchased them online, I assume the return process would have been a much bigger headache.

2. clothing
^ I showed up in gym clothes and that was a mistake. I got cut up and got oil/dirt all over my upper body. Is there any specific auto clothing that I should get? I was thinking of going on base to get some old Navy coveralls or old army camos and using them, since I assume they should be tough. I already bought some random thin auto gloves that you use when changing oil, but I'm unsure if there is a best brand that everyone loves? I don't want oil on me again since that took a long time to scrub out and I don't think it is supposed to touch the skin anyway from what I read on one of the oil container labels.

I may get a hard hat and knee pads as well since I banged my head and knees a lot.

Thank you.

1. Parts: OEM should be your 'baseline' - like, from a dealer. Then you figure out what is closest to that if you need something cheaper. NGK or Denso spark plugs from a reputable source (local parts store, RockAuto, etc. - not eBay or Amazon) are the same as OEM. Aisin water pump is the same as OEM, Denso rebuilt alternator (by Denso, not any other company) is the same as the OEM alternator... plenty of details to learn on this front.

2. I save all my old clothes and wear them when working on the car. T-shirts with holes, ripped jeans, whatever. Nothing you need clean ever again - I wear them until totally gross then throw away. I'm not going to put greasy clothes in the washer where I put my 'normal' clothes - I did this even before getting married. If I'm doing work away from the house (a friends place or shop), I will bring a change of clothes and coveralls if the weather isn't crazy hot.

I use quality disposable gloves for oil changes (fuel smell in the oil is hard to clean) or especially greasy jobs. For the rest, a good hand cleaner or dish soap and a stiff bristled finger nail brush will get your hands clean fairly quickly. I don't like working in gloves - leather (real or synthetic) can grab on rotating tools (drills, etc.) and hurt you more than the gloves protect. Watch out for that.

There is a special order/procedure if you do a traditional brake bleed (pumping the pedal) on 3rd gen 4Runner - and it is different between the '96-'00 and '01/'02 sub generations. No risk with a vacuum bleeder, which is what I use these days. Suck fluid out of the reservoir, replace with fresh, then bleed each corner from there.

Wheels/tires should be done at/near the ground level to minimize the need to lift. Get it in front, pre line up the holes to the studs while on the ground, then lift 3-4" up and on. A toe on the bottom of the tire (heel on ground) will keep it up flat on the hub while you put the lowest lug nut on finger tight. Snug all the lugs (maybe 20 ft.lbs?) in the air and torque when you are back on the ground.

-Charlie