OEM Hitch Removal Hiccup

nc-grayson

Member
Greetings,

Looking for suggestions on how to go about removing my OEM tow Hitch. I have the same hitch in these pictures, albeit not mine and sourced from the forum, but the sweet MSPaint edits were done by yours truly.

Anyways, I've successfully removed seven of the eight 17mm bolts that secure this thing to the frame. As you know, the four, aft-most bolts thread directly into the frame, and the four, fore-most bolts thread into the stupid piece of flat bar with nuts tacked to it.

Problem is, numero ocho isn't cooperating. The impact successfully twisted and ripped the flat bar seen in the pics at the "X" mark. Now, the fore-most nut on the driver's side just spins freely inside the frame with the remnants of the flat bar it was originally mated to.

This section of the frame is about 2" tall, and about 18" deep from the opening at the rear of the frame.

I've tried the longest box wrench I own with no luck. the bolt spins freely. the nut spins freely.

Shy of cutting this bolt/tow hitch with a torch, anyone got suggestions?

nc-grayson-albums-nc-grayson-picture46276-hitch-1.png

nc-grayson-albums-nc-grayson-picture46277-hitch-2.png
 
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can you somehow get a sawzaw between the hitch and frame to cut the bolt of?

I wish I could, but the bolt's only really released itself a thread or two....just enough to get it to spin on both sides. Essentially, the hitch is in the exact same spot as if it were completely secured into place.

Shy of pulling out the feeler gauge, I'd estimate the gap between hitch and frame to be about 1/16th inch. smaller than any sawzall blade I've come across
 
Cut through the hitch itself to cut the bolt in half. Otherwise, you can use some tricky flex head and wobbly extensions to get a socket on it through the frame holes that are beyond the bolt. I had to fight a similar situation with a shrockworks bumper and the nut on a stick pieces they give you when a bad thread caught and broke the nut as you're experiencing.

I was able to get a socket on the nut. Otherwise, you aren't using the hitch are you? Just cut horizontal through the hitch and bolt. It will fall an fish the rest out with a magnet.
 
Don't cut the hitch!!!! Just cut the head off the bolt with the sawzall. That will free the hitch, and the remnants of the bar inside the frame will be loose so that you can remove it as well.
 
Don't cut the hitch!!!! Just cut the head off the bolt with the sawzall. That will free the hitch, and the remnants of the bar inside the frame will be loose so that you can remove it as well.

Or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Easy peasy.
 
Hacksaw blades are generally thinner than Sawzall blades, so that might work. Otherwise an angle grinder with a carbide cutoff wheel should take the bolt head off pretty quickly so you can remove the hitch and knock out the remainder of the bolt and nut.
 
This is a good thread as I'm about to be removing my factory hitch to replace my bumper with one that's not rusted and crusted. Good info!
:party:
 
Stick something(like a flat head) between the bolt and the frame. The idea is too provide enough friction to turn the nut and not the bolt.
 
Is there a way to keep the hitch & bolts , & get rid of the aforementioned stupid bar that traps moisture debris & corrosion in the frame ?

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I managed to get a big flat screwdriver wedged between the nut and frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

between the nut and the frame? How so? Where could you find the space/leverage to insert big screw driver? I can only imagine attacking it from the tiny hole on the outside of the frame just next to the nut, but I can't see how I'd get a screwdriver to bend down in that crevice.

Hacksaw blades are generally thinner than Sawzall blades, so that might work. Otherwise an angle grinder with a carbide cutoff wheel should take the bolt head off pretty quickly so you can remove the hitch and knock out the remainder of the bolt and nut.

This could be my best option....a hacksaw blade is about the only thing thickness wise I could get in the gap between frame/hitch. It'll be a ***** but that's the most logical approach from my angle

Stick something(like a flat head) between the bolt and the frame. The idea is too provide enough friction to turn the nut and not the bolt.

wish I could....even the thinnest flathead is to fat.....short of eyeglasses screwdrivers I don't have the room
 
I really don't remember how I got it in there. It may not have been the same bolt you are having issues with. My wife got rear ended and I needed to take it off to change the bumper.


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