Off-roading Tips

[Thai]

Common 4WDriving Techniques

The following techniques are common to all types of terrain. Techniques for particular types of terrain are mentioned under the different terrain headings.

Hand Position

When driving off road, it is important not to place your thumbs on the inside of the steering wheel. When driving over any large ruts or potholes, the wheel could suddenly turn. This may result in the thumb being bruised or even dislocated if it is left inside the rim. Remembering to leave your thumbs on the outside of the steering wheel is a very easy skill to acquire and should become second nature to you. With power steering fitted to most 4Wdrives these days, this technique is not as critical as the power steering unit dampens out sudden steering wheel movements as well as steering stablizers. Owners of non-power steering vehicles will have undoubtedly experienced at some time the force at which the steering wheel turns when hitting an obstruction.

Diff Position

It is important to know the position of your front and rear differentials as they are usually the lowest ground clearance point of your vehicle. Similarly, any other low ground clearance points should be noted e.g. exhaust, spare tyre etc. When a large rock or other obstacle is on a track that you must drive over, you should ensure you avoid driving directly over it with the lowest ground clearance point of your vehicle.

Braking

When using the vehicle

 

[Thai]

Water Crossing tips

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech...er-crossing.htm

Watercrossing Summary

Vehicle Preparation

Walk the crossing to check its depth.
Don't cross fast flowing water.
Place markers at hidden obstacles.
Place a tarp across the front of the vehicle.
Disconnect the fan belt if a viscous coupling fan is not fitted.
Spray water repellent on distributor and ignition wires.
Pack recovery gear on top, ready for use.

Driving Technique

Take off seat belt and wind down window.
Use low range 2nd gear (in most situations).
Drive at a steady speed to create a bow wave.
Avoid using the clutch.
Do not over-rev engine if you lose traction.
If engine stalls, place in neutral without using clutch to restart. Takeoff in 1st low.

Post Watercrossing maintenance

Check diffs etc for water if depth above axles.
Check winches if fitted.

 

[Thai]

How to tackle a hill!

Vehicle Rollover

Hills should always be tackled straight up or down, and sideway slopes avoided like the plague! A vehicle has to be at an extreme angle for it to roll head to tail, whereas a sideways roll can occur at much more modest angles. The way your luggage is packed has a pronounced affect on the angle a vehicle will roll sideways. You should avoid placing containers of extra fuel and water on the roof of your vehicle, as this will significantly decrease the angle at which a rollover is possible. This occurs because the extra weight on the top of a vehicle increases the 'center of gravity'. Heavy gear should always be packed low inside the vehicle and as centered as possible while only lightweight gear should be placed on roof racks.

The type of terrain will also affect the sideways rollover angle. In sand, mud or other soft terrain the weight transfer to the downhill wheels will cause them to sink, increasing the actual slope angle. So what may appear an acceptable angle on firm terrain may result in a rollover on soft terrain.

 

[Thai]

Dust Control

Dust Control

When driving on dusty roads, its a good idea to have all your windows closed and the ventilation control set to outside air with the fan on high. This pressurises the vehicle interior slightly and helps reduce the amount of dust sucked into the vehicle. When another vehicle approaches, move the ventilation control to "recirculate" to stop dusty air coming in. Remember to move the ventilation back to outside air once you have passed through its dust trail or else the pressurisation effect will be lost. In hot weather, vehicles without air-conditioning have to make a choice between minimizing dust intake or winding the windows down for the (cough) fresh air.

The biggest problem area for dust intake is from the rear tailgate. Check that the rubber seals are in good condition and that they seal when closed.

 

[Thai]

Mud Driving!

Mud Driving

Driving through mud is a cross between ice skating and walking through quicksand. Some types of mud have a greasy top layer with a hard baked surface underneath, while other types can be a bottomless quagmire of gooey mush.

Different types of mud require different driving techniques and equipment. Greasy mud with a hard bottom layer is best suited to narrow tires to allow them to cut through the top layer to bite the hard surface below. Wide tires in this situation tend to float on the greasy top layer without reaching the hard surface underneath.

Thick gooey mud tends to favour wide tires as they give some flotation, similar to wide tires favoring sand driving. Lowering your tire pressures can help just like when sand driving, though its best not to lower tire pressures below 20-25psi for mud.

Regardless of what type of mud and what width tires are fitted, the tread pattern needs to have large lugs to allow the tire to 'clean' itself. If they don't, the lugs fill with mud and the tire becomes a 'slick' with little chance of getting traction. Road orientated tread patterns tend to have closely spaced lugs to put more rubber on the road and to reduce tire noise at highway speeds. When it comes to mud, road tread tires are at a significant disadvantage, whereas in sand they help avoid 'digging in'. Dedicated mud tires have large open spaced lugs to keep the tire clean. However, they handle worse on bitumen as there is less rubber in contact with the ground and in sand they tend to dig in. Also they can have an annoying drone at highway speeds.

Mud Driving Techniques

Unlike some other types of terrain, mud-driving techniques vary on the type of mud. Reducing tire pressures can help in 'bottomless' mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud. Mud usually tends to hide obstacles such as tree roots and sticks just waiting to slash your sidewalls, so its best to avoid reducing tire pressures if you can avoid it..

Driving on the peaks between tire tracks can provide firmer ground, as water tends to collect in the wheel tracks. Though sometimes the existing wheel tracks have cut through to the firmer surface underneath and provide the best traction.

Moving the steering wheel left to right about 90

 

[Thai]

Sand Driving!

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech...ng/sand_dri.htm

Summary-Sand Driving

Lower tire pressures to greatly improve traction and reduce track erosion

Drive smoothly with gear changes at high revs

Ensure wheels are pointing straight ahead when taking off

Avoid the soft sand at the base of dunes and gullies

Make turns as wide as possible

ONLY travel straight up or down dunes

Follow in others tire tracks to drive on compressed ground

Avoid braking by coasting to a stop

Do not floor the accelerator if you are bogging down

When bogged, try to reverse on your own tracks

Thoroughly hose down your vehicle after a beach trip

 

[Thai]

A Beginner

Here's an article from Truck Trend

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A Beginner

 

[stylishauto]

Gotta see it to believe it!!!

Here is a site that will give you some really wild trail shot's and some great eye candy to go along with all of the hints.Just go and visit www.4x4wire.com , WARNING! seat belts are required!lol

 

[TeryT]

Who RU?

Thai - I've enjoyed your many & lengthy posts on here, but who are you? (since I can't send an e-mail to you, I will use this format) Do you work for Toyota?

Thanks - jus' wonderin':awais:

 

[Thai]

Re: Who RU?

Thai - I've enjoyed your many & lengthy posts on here, but who are you? (since I can't send an e-mail to you, I will use this format) Do you work for Toyota?

Thanks - jus' wonderin':awais:

Thanks! Nope, i don't work for Toyota. I am a consumer just like you. This is my hobby...reading about SUVs is my hobby.

 

[GatorGreg]

Thanks to Alpine for finding this article:


4WD TIPS: SAFE BEACH DRIVING

Most people take their 4x4s to the waterfront, where there's much fun to be had -- but there are hazards. Here are some helpful hints about driving on the sand.

No matter how many times people see photographs of drowned 4x4s we still have a regular supply of beachfront disasters. The beach is seen as a 'soft' 4x4 destination, but nothing could be further from the truth.

If you get stuck in a mud hole on a forest track there's unlikely to be any serious damage as a result, but get stuck on a windswept beach with the tide rising and it's quite a different story. More than one vehicle has been floated out to sea by the tide and hundreds have been drowned and buried. The servo picture galleries on Fraser Island are full of images of these disasters.

The light-hearted approach to beach driving isn't helped by TV ads that continue to illustrate in glorious colour how NOT to drive a 4x4 on a beach. The 4x4 dealer network must hate these ad campaigns, because some dealers are faced every Monday by owners of towed-in 4x4s expecting warranty repairs on waterlogged machines. In some car dealerships salt encrustation and beach sand lodged in a 4x4's underbody is enough to have warranty denied.

Believe us, if you drive your 4x4 like the TV ad drivers do you'll be denied warranty under the heading of 'driver abuse' and the salesman who extolled the virtues of your new 4x4 will have become as forgetful as Alan Bond when you revisit him.

Sand driving is a wonderful experience, but there are necessary steps to take to ensure that your vehicle and its occupants are safe at all times. Strange things happen to some 4x4 owners when they experience the freedom of beachfront driving.

One of the biggest assets to the beach driver is tyre pressure. Lower tyre pressure helps the vehicle 'float' on the soft sand, while higher pressures will give the vehicle a tendency to dig in to the sand. Pressures should be lowered to around 18-20psi for a start. Remember, two of your greatest assets in sand driving are your tyre-pressure gauge and pump.

Speed is dangerous on a beachfront, because the soft nature of the ground means that all vehicle responses are slowed and steering has a delayed reaction. Because you've dropped your tyre pressures their speed capability is reduced drastically and their 'soggy' sidewalls won't resist vehicle sway.

Also, if you're travelling quickly you can't see obstacles far enough ahead to take gentle avoiding action. Sudden manoeuvres have led to many a beach roll over. Splashing through water looks great on TV, but it's dangerous -- hit a deeper or softer patch and the steering wheel can be jerked out of your hands and you'll lose control.

Water spray is harmful to vehicles -- at best it will pool underneath and start corrosion and at worst it will blast its way into mechanical components and damage them. Water passes easily through an air-cleaner element and into the inlet manifold, and can completely destroy an engine in seconds.

Fitting a snorkel will help keep water out of the inlet manifold, but won't stop it getting into axle
and transmission housings. There's a lively myth that 4x4s are somehow more water resistant than normal cars, but they're not -- they're just higher off the ground.

Sand dunes are a real trap for the uninitiated. However, with common sense and a little knowledge, they can be a heap of fun. Here are a few tips:

• Never drive over a dune without knowing what's on the other side. There might be a vertical drop-off, another vehicle, or worse, some people there.

• If you look like getting stuck on an ascent, don't try to turn around. Reverse back down on your own tracks.

• Don't try to traverse the dunes -- drive straight up and down. The added load on the downhill wheels can dig them in and cause a rollover.

• Momentum will get you up the dune but don't use too much. Just enough to crest the dune and you won't inadvertently fly over the top.

Remember, the beach is there for all users. Act responsibly and they won't be closed off to the responsible majority of 4x4 drivers.

 

[TeryT]

There's a lively myth that 4x4s are somehow more water resistant than normal cars, but they're not -- they're just higher off the ground.

Thanks for the info. However, this (quoted portion) doesn't seem to be entirely accurate to me. Most 4x4s have things like breather tubes & check valves on the axles, transmissions, transfer cases, etc.

Otherwise, great stuff!

 

[SurfingDrunk]

I found this on my tacoma forum, TTORA.
---------------------
I compiled this checklist from several sources

This is a list of items that you should consider having when you travel on 4-wheel drive trails, in the mountains, or other remote areas where help could be delayed or not received. Even if you only plan a short trip, it could turn into a long trip due to mechanical or navigational issues.

Information listed was obtained from California Association of 4 Wheel Drive Clubs, Esprit De Four 4 Wheel Drive Club, Backcountry Adventures (ISBN: 1-930193-08-4), Guide to California Backroads & 4 Wheel Drive Trails (ISBN: 0-9664976-5-1), last and least: my personal experience.

WEB LINKS:
United Four Wheel Drive Clubs
California Association of 4 Wheel Drive Clubs
Blur Ribbon Coalition
Tread Lightly



***DISCLAIMER: (Please read all of this!!)***
Using this list and having all of these items does not guarantee you or your vehicle

 

[rustyrazor]

Off-roading = getting stuck

A slight change of pace here. I know that it's been mentioned in passing but this is essential. You need to be prepared to get unstuck.

The fact is if you're seriously off roading, and I don't mean going from a paved road to a dirt road, eventually you'll get stuck.

Here's some of the essentials I carry for getting unstuck:

"Snatch" tow strap. If you have traction you can use a corolla to get your 4runner out. It's all about the slack.

A come-a-long and some extra chain. Bring a pair of heavy work gloves too. It can save you from some serious blisters.

It's nice to have a jackall or hi lift jack although you really need to make sure you know how to use it. I've heard of guys that have been knocked out by the bar. This can also be used as a winch (in a pinch) ha.

Traction aids like traction grabbers are usefull. I've used the floor mats for extra traction. I used to have a 2x10 board with a strip of an old snowmachine track nailed onto it. Rigth now I've got steel traction grabbers that fold up into a nice small box. Just remember to tie about a 6 foot length of rope to them so that you don't have to dig in the mud to get them out, or lose them altogether.

I'll probably think of some more later.

 

[4by4th]

Re: Water Crossing tips

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech...er-crossing.htm

Watercrossing Summary


Post Watercrossing maintenance

Check diffs etc for water if depth above axles.

How do I check this on a 2004 4Runner 4x4? Is there a link to directions on-line? We paid $150 labor and $75 for synthetic differential oil to have it changed on our Cherokee today. The 4Runner's recently been through the same creek crossing.

I didn't think we were up to the axles, but it's hard to tell what's going on underneath blasting across the creek.

 

[4by4th]

We took the 4Runner to our reliable local mechanic today who did the Jeep yesterday and they said it was okay, no charge.

I would like to be able to check it myself in the future, so any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[SHINTON]

I thought I would give some insight on modifications for your 4x4! These are based on personal experience and listening to fellow 4x4ers who have been doing this a LONG time.

First modification should be the ability to get yourself UN-stuck! To start with, this means reliable tow points, front and rear on the vehicle. Sometimes factory tow points are ok, on some rigs you may need to add these.

Then you will want to buy a tow or "snatch" strap. Get the kind with loops on both ends and some "D" rings for hooking them up. I keep mine in a bag along with my winch gloves and a short piece of chain. (More on the chain later)

Continuing on with getting unstuck, the next "cheapest" unstuck device is a HI LIFT Jack! They are called farm jacks for a reason, they have been using them forever! You can literally use it as a winch and pull yourself out 48-60" at a time if nothing else!

Read up on how to use and MAINTAIN them properly. You will see lots of "cool rigs" who leave their Hi-Lift mounted outside their rig all year long without any cover over the mechanics. These are usually the same guys whose Hi-Lift levers get stuck, have to "hit them" with a rock to move, etc... Keep it lubed, and stored properly. They have some nice plastic molded cases you can get for them now, or covers, or mine stays in the garage unless I am taking a trip, and I lube/check it before loading up.

CHAINS ARE dangerous, please do not use them as a strap, because it literally could turn into a life/death situation, especially crappy non-rated chain. They have ratings just like bolts, straps, ropes, etc.

With that in mind, I STILL carry about a 6' chain with the "links" for hooking them together in my GO bag. The reason is..some of these rigs suspensions are so flexy, even my 60" hi-lift cannot get them off the ground. So instead, I loop the chain around the frame/axle, holding them together, THEN I am able to jack it up a MUCH shorter distance to get a wheel off the ground. (Lower = SAFER too!!) I have seen rachet straps used the same way with great success, chain is just what I have used.

Ok...final thought for today is this....bigger lifts and bigger tires and lockers all usually mean you can go MORE places and get stuck "deeper" in the woods than before!!

My #1 mod before ANY LIFT or bigger tires or lockers is a winch. We call it the "Warn Locker", the most imporant locker of them all. It will save you body damage, keep you safe, allow you to "walk" up something too hard to drive over safely, etc.

Buy a brand name winch...even if this means waiting another 2-3 months of saving up your cash, you will curse that cheap "chinese/generic" junk when it conks out on you 1/2 way up the gully and you have to get someone ELSE to winch you up/down. I have owned both Ramsey and Warn and like em both. (Look at the WINCH SAVER product, saves your winch cable/gives you a nice weight on the line, etc)

Another winch line tip...don't do the "hook it to the D ring on your bumper" and winch tight thing. If you do this any length of time you have just created the breaking point on your cable! That "bend" is a kink/weak spot, you are much better off to use that winch saver or just winch in VERY carefully with just the hook sticking straight out of the fairlead.

I hope that helps, I have been taking out new 4x4 owners for about 6 years now, hitting the trails for the first time and this is the same advice our club gives them. I cannot tell you how many of them have gotten addicted to the hobby and have gone on to build huge rigs!!

Sam Hinton

 

[Chuck4x4]

My #1 mod before ANY LIFT or bigger tires or lockers is a winch.

Is it possible to add a winch to the 4Runner without replacing the front bumper?

 

[SHINTON]

Chuck I don't know yet for sure, my guess is it can be done, but it will be custom. Look up the term "Hidden hitch" for the front of vehicles, the newest 4runners are not mentioned but olders ones are I believe.

Essentially what you are doing is adding a tow hitch under the front bumper, with a receiver sticking out, usually where the front tag is.

Then you mount a winch on a plate/receiver, and can move to front or rear.

OR...my personal plan B...is to see if there is enough room in there to "hide" the winch behind the lower air dam area, with a fairlead coming out the grill down there. In both cases, I will be keeping the front stock bumper...

Sam

 

[DB208508]

IMO the toyota stock bumpers are kinda chinsy and wouldn't risk mounting anything like a winch to them, if I was going to make it so I could keep the stock bumper I would extend the mounting brackets/frame and put a plate over the gap, and mount the winch to that