Oil Change, Now Running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic

not going to rant about this, but, everyone has their own opinions about whats good and whats not, most of it comes from their experience with certain products. No one out there knows everything and no one has ever used every single product out there. I have been using synthetic oil for over a decade, first started in my full blown turbo civic, which was a low 12 high 11 car. I have broken down many engines in many apps over the years and the difference is easily seen. Synthetic oils protect better, last longer and provide a superior advantage over regular conventional oils. In your case i would recommend switching over to a synthetic just on the basis of your mileage. Lets just look at this from a monetary point of view, the basis of most decisions we make. We will make the filter the same no matter what, $3.99 Purolator Classic L10241
Conventional Oil: 12,000 miles = 4 oil changes, Castrol GTX 6 quarts & filter
$135.92
Synthetic Oil: 12,000 miles = 1 oil changes, Castrol Edge w/titanium 6 quarts & filter
$59.73
savings = $76.19
the math says it all, even if a different filter is used you are still saving no matter what, your 4runner will love you for it in the end. And side not you can almost always find a synthetic oil on sale somewhere, even if you don't its even cheaper than the $60 if you find it in a 5 quart jug. so just my opinion and thats all it is just another opinion, hope this helps.
 
True IF you have a car/truck where the seals have dried out "because" of running regular conventional oil for years and the crud that has built up has dried the seals out then it is possible that synthetic 'could" possibly cause a leak because it will clean the crud out and expose the leak caused by the petroleum oil.
BUT it is also possible that IF those seals are not too far gone that the synthetic will swell them back up after awhile and rejuvenate them as long as they are not too far gone, too dried out.
Of course you would never have had that problem if you ran synthetic from the get go.

You must have never had to deal with the Isuzu 3.5 engines. Any oil run in new from factory motor would leak/burn synthetic or not. There is an exception to every claim/rule.
 
You must have never had to deal with the Isuzu 3.5 engines. Any oil run in new from factory motor would leak/burn synthetic or not. There is an exception to every claim/rule.

Nope never have, but that sounds like a design flaw more than anything else.
So yeah I guess if you have an engine that is designed to leak then maybe putting in petroleum based oil that will sooner or later seal that leak up with crud & sludge might be the way to go.
 
If I'm using my 100K Runner for city driving, occasional roadtrips, and changing my dino oil every 5,000 (thats when the dealership sticker says to change it) does it even matter what kind of oil?
 
If I'm using my 100K Runner for city driving, occasional roadtrips, and changing my dino oil every 5,000 (thats when the dealership sticker says to change it) does it even matter what kind of oil?

Probably not.
BUT since the 3.4L engine is one of the ones that is somewhat prone to engine sludge then having an oil that has a much higher flash point plus helps your engine run cooler anyway has got to be a big plus no matter what.
You would have to be wildly negligent to have your engine sludge up if you run 100% synthetic.
Personally I would never let regular petroleum oil go for 5000 miles though.

On my wifes Lexus ES300 which is VERY prone to sludge because of how hot the top end gets, if you run regular petroleum oil you will most likely see sludge even if you change the oil at 3000 miles.
When you turn off the engine and the oil flows down it leaves a thin coating of oil on that hot top end and it literally cooks it.
Sludge builds up and starts clogging those small oil channels then sludges up even faster.
I run nothing but 0W30 full synthetic in her car and engine is clean as whistle.
 
I like the much larger margin of error synthetic provides if your engine is in a situation that it is being pushed hard and in either cold or hot conditions synthetic provides a little more peace of mind. I definetly never use dino oil in a hard pressed turbo application for the same reasons;the flash point for dino oil is also lower than synthetic and it's pourability properties in extreme cold temps can't be matched with dino oil.

Is it worth my extra dough? Yes,becasue of the aforementioned statements and I like having extended drain intervals which I go 9000 miles or 10 months whatever comes first.

I've been using synthetic for almost 20 years and especially in racing applications the differences between the dino oil really show up.
 
Though it may be a pretty big controversy I am sticking with synthetic. Larger margin of error and I personally think its better. If I'm wrong then hey a few dollars gone, if their wrong then they could be getting all that crud in their engine and mine will last longer. See my point? I even picked up mobile 1 synthetic gear oil for my tranny. I want to change that before I leave for school.
 
I just switched to Mobil 1 High Mileage (5w30) today, as a matter of fact, at 159k miles.

I am a little curious about the OCI. I was changing dino @3000mi. I have no sludge problem, just a light varnish.

My old 2TR-FE Tacoma was full synthetic (0w20) and still recommended a 5000mi OCI. Dealer said something about it being a 'commercial' engine that needed more frequent changes.

I'm not sure if this applies to the 5VZ-FE, but I'm pretty sure it isn't a commercial engine in that way.

What OCIs do you synthetic guys go with?
 
After I got my 4Runner with it's 3.4 engine, I had some brand(Syntec, probably) of Group 3 oil in it and changed it at 3000 miles. Got a UOA and the oil was very clean and not degraded much, if at all. My conclusion: It could easily have gone to 5K or 6K and probably still would have been in good shape. This engine seems to keep the oil fairly clean, compared to my last, older-design 22RE engine.
My new interval is 5000 miles or six months.
 
Talk about bringing a thread back from the dead! This thread, specifically the posts made my user Saved, had me laughing at my desk this morning. The use of the word "slipperier" was icing on the cake!!! I'll spare most of you the oil lecture, unless specifically requested, as most of you seem to have the ability to think for yourselves. I've spent my entire career working in the petrochemical industry in on form or another, and I sit on an API committee (and sit in on several others) and can tell you without a doubt that almost every word spewed forth by Saved is unfounded nonsense. The synthetic debate will continue until there is no longer dino oil to be found, and the choice is yours to run what you wish. I'd advise everyone, at least once every three oil changes, to send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis, as that information will tell you FAR more about the operational characteristics and parameters within your engine than anything on this forum ever will.
 
I think the correct term if someone knows what they are talking about is not "slippier" but lubricity. What was with saying synthetic has anti-rusting properties, if you put oil on anything its going to keep it from rusting
 
I have been using mobil1 full synthetic in the diffs and yesterday I noticed I could see what looked like rust in between the gear teeth when I looked through the drain hole of the front diff. Is it from not using 4wd regularly enough? Is regular oil a better protectant?
 
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I have been using mobil1 full synthetic in the diffs and yesterday I noticed I could see what looked like rust in between the gear teeth when I looked through the drain hole of the front diff. Is it from not using 4wd regularly enough? Is regular oil a better protectant?

That would be from condensation or water intrusion and not using 4WD enough to keep the gears coated.
Would happen no matter what gear lube you use. Though frankly would probably take longer with Synthetic Lube since it coats and sticks to the metal better.
 
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Talk about bringing a thread back from the dead! This thread, specifically the posts made my user Saved, had me laughing at my desk this morning. The use of the word "slipperier" was icing on the cake!!! I'll spare most of you the oil lecture, unless specifically requested, as most of you seem to have the ability to think for yourselves. I've spent my entire career working in the petrochemical industry in on form or another, and I sit on an API committee (and sit in on several others) and can tell you without a doubt that almost every word spewed forth by Saved is unfounded nonsense. The synthetic debate will continue until there is no longer dino oil to be found, and the choice is yours to run what you wish. I'd advise everyone, at least once every three oil changes, to send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis, as that information will tell you FAR more about the operational characteristics and parameters within your engine than anything on this forum ever will.

Seconded! On a random note, which API committee are you on?

Back on topic: relevant lab data is by far one of the best resources someone can use to make sound engineering judgments. For example, if a person wants a wheel alignment done properly, they have someone qualified with calibrated equipment perform the alignment. The alignment data is then presented to the owner, both before and after. If you want data on how your engine performs, runs and its overall health? Data.
 
I used Mobile 1 full synthetic on all my previous cars with good results. I'm gonna do my 1st oil change tomorrow for the new T4R I just got last weekend. I'm thinking Mobile 1 full synth again... Currently there are no leaks anywhere under the vehicle, what are the chances that it'll start leaking after the oil change tomorrow? I doubt the previous owner(s) ever used full synth and it's already got 230K miles on it...
 

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