Oil Pan "issue"

wadle5

New member
My 100+ time chaning oil on one of my vehicles. I think due to this past time me shivering in the cold while trying to change my oil, I may have over-tightened my oil pan bolt. The problem is not only did I overtigten, but I believe is being hasty I also cross threaded(no comment). The problem is as follows. I am not leaking currently, but I am debating options of rethreading the pan or replacing the plug and just confirming. Issues are...I have a fumoto valve sitting in my garage that I was going to put on this spring when it was nicer out on my next oil change. . .do I get a OEM drain plug and test, possibly rethread(which I'm more than nervous about), or do I just replace the entire lower pan,oil change, plug with a new one for $300 at the dealership?

My concern is without the full replacement I am just putting off inevitable issues that could arise and develop a poor seal and leak from the plug location.

And now I know why I change my oil when visiting my parents in their heated garage where I can feel my fingers.

Thanks in advance guys
 
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I may have over-tightened my oil pan bolt. The problem is not only did I overtigten, but I believe is being hasty I also cross threaded

Hard to say when you're not sure of the damage, if any. Are you sure you across threaded? Are you sure you over-tightened? Put on some warm clothes, impossible to work with gloves and get under there and determine exactly what the status is!
 
Hard to say when you're not sure of the damage, if any. Are you sure you across threaded? Are you sure you over-tightened? Put on some warm clothes, impossible to work with gloves and get under there and determine exactly what the status is!

Yes I did crossthread. I backed the plug out. . .started to reinsert it went in a 3rd of the way before coming to stop. .I backed it out again to reaffirm it is in straight and it was met with extreme difficulty.
But its snowing TODAY!!:Cry::rain: (thats an umbrella to protect you from my tears)
 
I had the nut that is welded inside the oil pan break free, even though I'm pretty careful about torquing the drain plug properly.

I replaced the plan myself in about an hour, it's really an easy process and parts are relatively cheap. You'll need the pan, a new plug, and the Toyota FIPG or equivalent (permatex, etc.). I think I spent under $100 total, maybe not even that much.

You'll need an in-lbs torque wrench, but you can rent one if you don't have one. Or just buy one for yourself with the money you save from going to the dealership.
 
I had the nut that is welded inside the oil pan break free, even though I'm pretty careful about torquing the drain plug properly.

I replaced the plan myself in about an hour, it's really an easy process and parts are relatively cheap. You'll need the pan, a new plug, and the Toyota FIPG or equivalent (permatex, etc.). I think I spent under $100 total, maybe not even that much.

You'll need an in-lbs torque wrench, but you can rent one if you don't have one. Or just buy one for yourself with the money you save from going to the dealership.

Was actually reading I believe your posts and I have a torque wrench. My concern is the kit on rock auto lists. So what all do I need. I will just be using my fumoto valve if I replace the entire pan, but my confusion was with the gasket.
More Information for DORMAN 264344

More Information for FEL-PRO OS30752

In reading through some threads it was say specifically there isn't an actual physical gasket on this pan but just the RTV? (any insight, shameless tag [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] )

Also I'm showing the original is aluminum, will it make that much of a difference by getting one made from standard metal?
 
Was actually reading I believe your posts and I have a torque wrench. My concern is the kit on rock auto lists. So what all do I need. I will just be using my fumoto valve if I replace the entire pan, but my confusion was with the gasket.
More Information for DORMAN 264344

More Information for FEL-PRO OS30752

In reading through some threads it was say specifically there isn't an actual physical gasket on this pan but just the RTV? (any insight, shameless tag [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] )

Also I'm showing the original is aluminum, will it make that much of a difference by getting one made from standard metal?

You'll need the new pan and the RTV/FIPG. And you are correct, no actual gasket, just the RTV/Toyota FIPG.

Process is this:
-unbolt old pan & remove (little tricky to separate, I hammered in a plastic wedge, moving around the pan)
-scrape off old RTV/FIPG with a razor blade
-apply new RTV/FIPG
-Bolt pan back on and torque (usually within 5 minutes or so of application of RTV/FIPG)

Torque specs and R&R process are in the FSM.
 
How sure are you the pan is stripped? I did something similar on my Benz a while back and figured I'd need a new ($500! :embarassed: ) pan, but the bolt was the problem as it was made of softer metal than the pan, thus it stripped out while the pan's threads remained intact and perfectly usable with a brand new oil drain bolt.
 
How sure are you the pan is stripped? I did something similar on my Benz a while back and figured I'd need a new ($500! :embarassed: ) pan, but the bolt was the problem as it was made of softer metal than the pan, thus it stripped out while the pan's threads remained intact and perfectly usable with a brand new oil drain bolt.

I guess something I will have to check on my next oil change. . that plug has seen its share of abuse. Thanks!
 
In the 70s I used 2 over-sized self tapping plugs on Fords. They held the metal from cutting new threads good. Or, pull the pan and re-tap if the metal will support re-tapping. See if the dealer carry and support oversize plugs.

Good Luck!
 
See if the dealer carry and support oversize plugs.

Go to the local quick oil change place - since they strip those plugs as part of their job they must have every possible replacement available! :tape:
 

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