Ok that's it I give up! Impossible Toyota readiness drive pattern for evap system.

[StreetCreeper]

After two weeks of trying to meet the "readiness drive pattern" for the evap system so the truck will preform the pressure/vac test....I give up. It is simply damn near impossible to do where I live, and I'm tired of screwing with it.

So my new idea is to put the rear end up on jack-stands and "drive" the exact pattern that the FSM calls for.

Don't know why I didn't think of this two weeks ago....

My questions are, will this work, and are there any specific issues (safety or otherwise) that I need to be aware of?

I've never run a truck while on jack-stands and certainly never run one at 45 mph for 5 minutes then at 25 mph for 15.

My thoughts are that anything I could put in front of the front tires as a wheel chalk will have little stopping effect should the rear drop.

So that basically leaves me sitting there with as much clearance as possible in front of me while I "drive". If the rear should drop, I think the lack of vehicle momentum in combination with my amazing ninja-like reflexes, should be enough to prevent me from launching myself into the empty house across the street.

Anyone see the flaw in the slaw here? Is this a dumb "hold my beer I got this" idea?

 

[cashmoney]

Done it many times. Just accelerate slow and no jerky movements.

And what is this random test thing you are trying to perform? Wouldn't just normal driving accomplish it?

 

[OffRoadGuy]

You trying to pass smog? You in modesto just drive up and down the 99 late at night. I wouldn't put it on jack stands. The vibration alone would make it move or slip. A bit dangerous IMO.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Done it many times. Just accelerate slow and no jerky movements.

And what is this random test thing you are trying to perform? Wouldn't just normal driving accomplish it?

It's the OBD I/M readiness test. The truck monitors the emission system by testing the various components. Some of the test require very specific conditions to be met before the test will begin. The evap test is one of them. Once all the conditions are met, you have to drive a very specific pattern (speed/time). Failure to drive that pattern and the test will not complete and the I/M will not be ready. If it shows as not ready — I can't smog it.

A little history, I had a P0446 code and I made some repairs then cleared the code. It's hasn't thrown the code since, but only because it hasn't tested the evap system. I don't know if I fixed the problem or not until it runs the test and throws the code.

Oh and when you have run a truck on jack stands, where did you place the Jack stands? Axle or frame?

 

[StreetCreeper]

You trying to pass smog? You in modesto just drive up and down the 99 late at night. I wouldn't put it on jack stands. The vibration alone would make it move or slip. A bit dangerous IMO.

Yeah I need to smog it and that's the only I/M test that hasn't run. I would do it on 99 but I live too far away. It's my only vehicle and if I tried to drive to the freeway, the drive pattern would be all screwed up by all the stoplights on the way.

 

[EatonKyleH]

I looked through some of my online information to see if there were any alternative ways to force the monitor to run which many times there are as a "service bay" type test. Came up with this tidbit.

Can't say I've tried this particular one to verify that it does or does not work well but I figured I'd share it in hopes that it does and saves you some time.

1. The coolant temperature sensor and the intake air temperature sensor must be within 13 degrees and between 40 and 95 F for the EVAP monitor to run.

2. Fuel tank at 1/2 to 3/4 full.

3. Before starting the engine, release the gas cap and reinstall it. Then start the engine and idle to 167 F.

4. Race the engine to 3000 RPM for 10 seconds. Now idle the engine in drive with the A/C on for 15 to 50 minute; it may take 2 drive cycles to set a code.

 

[02SE]

It should also be noted that the EVAP system has to be functioning correctly, before the ECU will show it as 'Ready'. If it's not working properly, completing a specific Drive Cycle will be a waste of time.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I looked through some of my online information to see if there were any alternative ways to force the monitor to run which many times there are as a "service bay" type test. Came up with this tidbit.

Can't say I've tried this particular one to verify that it does or does not work well but I figured I'd share it in hopes that it does and saves you some time.

1. The coolant temperature sensor and the intake air temperature sensor must be within 13 degrees and between 40 and 95 F for the EVAP monitor to run.

2. Fuel tank at 1/2 to 3/4 full.

3. Before starting the engine, release the gas cap and reinstall it. Then start the engine and idle to 167 F.

4. Race the engine to 3000 RPM for 10 seconds. Now idle the engine in drive with the A/C on for 15 to 50 minute; it may take 2 drive cycles to set a code.

Sweet! I will definitely give this a try first on Tuesday!

 

[StreetCreeper]

It should also be noted that the EVAP system has to be functioning correctly, before the ECU will show it as 'Ready'. If it's not working properly, completing a specific Drive Cycle will be a waste of time.

Yeah that's why I don't know if my fix worked or not yet. I figure one of two things will happen, either the test runs and passes and I'll see that the I/M now says "ready" — yet not see any new codes. Or, it fails and the I/M still says "not ready" but suddenly it throws the same p0446 or 0440 codes for failing the test.

That's my theory anyway...

 

[diverscale]

I cannot believe you california resitents put up with that.

Isn't there any easier way to hack the system and pass the smog test? Even by going somewhere and giving some kind of ''bonus$''?

 

[D Farms]

I would take the tires off, ive read many times that the tires shouldnt be spun without load over 30 mph. this will also reduce spinning mass which might cause it to come off the stands. I would jack stand the frame and use small jack stands on the axle. you may have to run it in 4wd and jack stand the whole truck to get all the abs sensors to work, then again since the diffs are open who knows what will happen.

 

[cashmoney]

I put stands on the frame and axle and chock the front wheels. Never took the tires off but wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[StreetCreeper]

I cannot believe you california resitents put up with that.

Isn't there any easier way to hack the system and pass the smog test? Even by going somewhere and giving some kind of ''bonus$''?

I doubt there's a way to hack the system. I'm sure in the old days you could slip the smog guy an extra $100, but I doubt they sort of thing would fly today.

I would take the tires off, ive read many times that the tires shouldnt be spun without load over 30 mph. this will also reduce spinning mass which might cause it to come off the stands. I would jack stand the frame and use small jack stands on the axle. you may have to run it in 4wd and jack stand the whole truck to get all the abs sensors to work, then again since the diffs are open who knows what will happen.

Interesting! I'll definitely remove the wheels first.

As for the ABS sensors, my ABS doesn't work anyways so hopefully they aren't required.

I put stands on the frame and axle and chock the front wheels. Never took the tires off but wouldn't be a bad idea.

I'll have to scrounge around for some more Jack stands!

 

[jeremyc74]

I drove around with the "Not ready" status for over a week. It didn't set ready until after I completely filled it up, and then drove around for a couple of days. I know there's no specific requirement listed in the test for a full tank, but that seemed to be the only thing I did differently as it had more than 3/4 of a tank when I reset everything the first time.

Maybe it was just the act of removing the gas cap (as was mentioned in one of the earlier posts), but it went ready.

It's worth mentioning that mine is one of the ones with the screwed up fuel gauge (shows empty with 3.5 gallons left in the tank), so who knows if the ECU and fuel gauge are in agreement on how much I actually have in the tank at any given time. :crazy:

 

[TheDurk]

I cannot believe you california resitents put up with that.

Isn't there any easier way to hack the system and pass the smog test? Even by going somewhere and giving some kind of ''bonus$''?

Not anymore, at least in the states with 'advanced' emissions testing (CA,NY,NJ, others in NE and elsewhere). Here in NJ, the tester has to log the State computer in Trenton into the vehicle's ECU, which verifies the VIN and the code readings (so no dummy vehicle trick). The State computer also directly controls the special printer that spits out the inspection stickers. When that f......r in Trenton goes down, no inspections get done in the whole stinkin' state. Tough to beat. And if a shop gets caught, fines are serious and the state yanks the testing license and they have several thousand dollars of boat anchor test equipment.

I remember when it cost an extra $20 in the iffier parts of the iffier towns to get a PASS on a smoking and unsafe beater. No more.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Just to update this thread.

A while back I had a P0446 code pop up, so I did the poor-boy fix by swapping out a VSV with a junkyard one and then pulling the EVAP canister. Once the canister was out, I spotted what looked like a crack, so I hit it hard with RTV silicone....got a little carried away I think.









Anyways, as luck would have it, I had one hell of a time trying to get the ECU to run the I/M readiness test so I could see if the EVAP fix worked and then get it smogged.

Of course, just as I was about to try some alternate ways to get the test to run, I had more codes pop up for the transmission and my research indicated that the EVAP test would never run if there was a CEL on. Unfortunately, clearing the CEL didn't help because it would come right back.

So until I fixed the transmission and cleared the CEL, I could not see if my EVAP fix actually worked.

Then today, the day before I am to begin work on the transmission, I check the codes and I/M readiness monitors and wouldn't you know it — the EVAP test ran and passed at some point!



So two things — one, the fix worked and two, the I/M test will run even if you have a CEL on.

Just luck I guess that I inadvertently drove the truck in such a way as to meet the minimum requirements of the I/M EVAP drive pattern.

Christmas miracle perhaps!

 

[fourfive]

Just to update this thread.

A while back I had a P0446 code pop up, so I did the poor-boy fix by swapping out a VSV with a junkyard one and then pulling the EVAP canister. Once the canister was out, I spotted what looked like a crack, so I hit it hard with RTV silicone....got a little carried away I think...


So two things — one, the fix worked and two, the I/M test will run even if you have a CEL on.

Just luck I guess that I inadvertently drove the truck in such a way as to meet the minimum requirements of the I/M EVAP drive pattern.

Asking you here so I didn't hijack the other thread. I've had the P0440 & P0446 come up by themselves on separate occasions. Currently I have P0440.

Did you use a 9v battery to test the evap vent valve & multimeter or circuit tester probe to test the plug that goes into the vent valve?

Was the crack in your canister visible while it was installed or not until you removed it for closer inspection?

I did a visual inspection of my charcoal canister, hoses attached to canister, & fuel tank filler hose without removing anything. The hoses & canister seemed to be "in good shape" with no visible signs of damage but will actually remove the canister for a closer inspection next week hopefully.

From researching P0440 & P0446 the items listed below seemed to be the issue:
1. Evap vent valve on the charcoal canister
2. Crack in charcoal canister
3. Damaged hose on charcoal canister or fuel tank
4. Overfill check valve located on top of the fuel tank


The FSM list many other areas but will probably start with 1-3 of the above list. If 1-3 check out to be fine then I will look into 4, overfill check valve. Not looking forward to having to lower the gas tank though.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Replies in green

Asking you here so I didn't hijack the other thread. I've had the P0440 & P0446 come up by themselves on separate occasions. Currently I have P0440.

Did you use a 9v battery to test the evap vent valve & multimeter or circuit tester probe to test the plug that goes into the vent valve?

It's been awhile and I was probably stoned — so it's kinda foggy. But seems like I went to the junk yard and pulled all the VSVs with the intention to just start swamping everything that looked suspicious.

I pulled my charcoal canister and VSVs and then just tested the VSVs themselves with the 9v. Seems like one wasn't doing anything and the junk yard counterpart got swapped in.

Was the crack in your canister visible while it was installed or not until you removed it for closer inspection?

it wasn't until I pulled the canister out that I could see the crack. It was very easy to miss unless the light and angle was just right. Plus on my year truck the canister is under the hood — so easy-peazy; yours is back by the tank, so I feel your pain with having to mess with it.


I did a visual inspection of my charcoal canister, hoses attached to canister, & fuel tank filler hose without removing anything. The hoses & canister seemed to be "in good shape" with no visible signs of damage but will actually remove the canister for a closer inspection next week hopefully.

From researching P0440 & P0446 the items listed below seemed to be the issue:
1. Evap vent valve on the charcoal canister
2. Crack in charcoal canister
3. Damaged hose on charcoal canister or fuel tank
4. Overfill check valve located on top of the fuel tank


The FSM list many other areas but will probably start with 1-3 of the above list. If 1-3 check out to be fine then I will look into 4, overfill check valve. Not looking forward to having to lower the gas tank though.

 

[redx113]

Inspection Failed - Drive Cycle

Just to update this thread.

A while back I had a P0446 code pop up, so I did the poor-boy fix by swapping out a VSV with a junkyard one and then pulling the EVAP canister. Once the canister was out, I spotted what looked like a crack, so I hit it hard with RTV silicone....got a little carried away I think.









Anyways, as luck would have it, I had one hell of a time trying to get the ECU to run the I/M readiness test so I could see if the EVAP fix worked and then get it smogged.

Of course, just as I was about to try some alternate ways to get the test to run, I had more codes pop up for the transmission and my research indicated that the EVAP test would never run if there was a CEL on. Unfortunately, clearing the CEL didn't help because it would come right back.

So until I fixed the transmission and cleared the CEL, I could not see if my EVAP fix actually worked.

Then today, the day before I am to begin work on the transmission, I check the codes and I/M readiness monitors and wouldn't you know it — the EVAP test ran and passed at some point!



So two things — one, the fix worked and two, the I/M test will run even if you have a CEL on.

Just luck I guess that I inadvertently drove the truck in such a way as to meet the minimum requirements of the I/M EVAP drive pattern.

Christmas miracle perhaps!

Hey, I just ordered that tool that you have right off Amazon for $14. I hope you see this and can tell me, does it automatically pop up that it is EVAP ready?

I failed inspection today with catalytic converts and one other not reading, inspection guy asked if I changed a battery and I said yes in October, he said that is the drive cycle. After that I drove to Gateway Toyota in Toms River, NJ where I bought the car and showed them the inspection failed paper and they too said its drive cycle, just drive around and run some errands and it should work, but of course I rather not just take a guess than drive back to Lakewood.

So will that auto show the evap ready?

Please let me know and thanks!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My Saturn EVAP monitor wouldn't set all winter because the parameter for doing the EVAP test is the ECT and IAC temp must be between 41 and 90f and the two sensors within 10 degrees of each other. Along with fuel level between 15-85%.


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