OME suspension Q's

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concretejungle said:
Here is the link to a set of coils I'm interested in:

3" Lift Kit with front and rear OME coils

It says at the bottom: "...if you have shocks that are in good condition..."

Is this referring to stock shocks or OME shocks? Because the price difference to me is huge...Help would be great.
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You could get away with stock shocks for a while, but you have to know replacing them is necessary at some point. They aren't long enough to accomodate longer coils and you'll be out of the sweet-spot of the valving, too. You may get some bounce as OMEs are said to have a higher spring rate, though I could be wrong (someone confirm?)
 
concretejungle said:
Alright thanks for the info. Something to think about for sure.
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If you want to do it right, get longer shocks in the rear, rough country are the cheapest you can get. You can do land cruiser rears (OEM) for a few bucks more, but you'll need some additional hardware, including extended bump stops. That's the rear.

For the front I'd look at Tundra Bilstein 5100s. It will run you $200 for the set, but worth it. Otherwise just save up for Coilovers.
 
If you put an OME kit on there without the springs your stock shocks will make the ride feel worse than it did before the springs.. At least that's what I would think. Your shocks will go a long way of dampening the stiffness of the OME springs. I have a full OME kit on my truck with the Nitrocharger shocks, which aren't as nice as the billies but they ride great IMO. The shocks are critical especially if you're going to cycle the suspension all the way through its range of motion.

EDIT:: I'm running the same setup as that kit but without the top plate spacers in the front.
 
If you are set on the OME kit then I would go all the way. If you are still running stock shocks then it's time to replace them anyways. Might as well do everything since you will already be under there. To do the rear springs you have to disconnect the rear shocks at the lower shock mount. Just save a little more and do it right, you will be much happier.
 
You can always go the cheaper route and piece together a kit and still do it right. Do stock LC coils and shocks in the rear and get billies and some OME coils for the front and assemble them yourself. Just another option...
 
concretejungle said:
Except that's a lot of money for a guy my age...bleh. Thanks for the info though!
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I'm about to start my straight axle swap if you're interested in my setup... OME 882 w/ topouts and trim packer assembled with OME 90004 struts for the front, LC 9 wraps and LC shocks for the rear. PM me if interested.
 
downpour11 said:
I'm about to start my straight axle swap if you're interested in my setup... OME 882 w/ topouts and trim packer assembled with OME 90004 struts for the front, LC 9 wraps and LC shocks for the rear. PM me if interested.
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I'd jump on that for the 3"+ lift. Going to save money there.

I think LC or Superflex are the way to go in the rear if you want 3"+ lift.

As far as your comment about Bily 5100's OR OME springs...you can adjust the 5100s up to the 4th or 5th perch and would be fine for a good while up front. The stock spring is shorter than what the Tundra TRD coils are, so even with the perch that high you're still in the valving for the shock, IMO.

In the rear you need to do both, larger spring AND longer shock body, unless you're only doing a mild lift. Still, why not replace the shocks while you're at it?
 
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