Thrasher_S
New member
I was thinking of doing an installation thread, but there is very little to do other than lift them into place and tighten the bolts. I may give a couple tips. Tip #1 is to have a friend help. With two of us it took about an 1.5 hours, and it would have been faster if I had all the right tools gathered, and had I not bolted the driver side reinforcing bracket on first (it goes on AFTER the slider is bolted on...).
Note: I used anti-seize on the bolts. I figured it was either that or locktite, and I'd rather check the bolts once in a while than need a torch and breaker bar to pull them off.
First, some pics. Rig is currently factory height with factory tire size.
Front fitment:
Rear fitment: Pro tip: remove the little mudguard extension (aka the "mudguardlet") prior to putting in the front bolts. Otherwise it takes about 6 hands to hold everything and switch sockets. I actually loosened the bolts and shifted this down about 1/8in after this picture was taken. There is a tiny little plastic nub, on the black plastic trim piece, that was barely touching, and I decided I didn't like it.
Now for underneath. There are two brackets holding the KDSS lines to the frame REARWARD from the KDSS pump. These bolts need to be completely removed as the threaded holes will be used for mounting the sliders. I did not have to loosen the pump or use anything to bend the lines out other than my pulling with my fingers. Leave the brackets attached to the lines.
I ignored the instructions, which say to do the top center bolt first. I think this would be better if doing a solo install, but is an issue for the KDSS side because you have to fit the mounting plates between the frame and the KDSS lines. I was terrified I would slide the plate up, then lose hold of it and the weight of the slider pulling down and out would leave me bathing in hydraulic fluid. So, we did the front bolt 1/2 tight first, and let the slider hang down in the back (propped up with my boot). Then we lifted the back slowly and pulled just a bit on the KDSS lines so the mounting plates slipped up between them and the frame. Then we held it in place with the rearmost bolt. With that done, all it takes is threading in the rest of the bolts and torquing them down slowly while adjusting the slider position.
This is the middle mounting plate, prior to adjusting the slider upward and prior to adding the bolt that also holds the KDSS line bracket. Pull out just a bit on the line and the bracket will slide up. That's anti-seize by the bolt head, not damaged powder coat.
Front view of the rearmost mounting plate showing the KDSS line and the bolt-on reinforcing gusset. The gusset must go on AFTER mounting the slider, since it goes around the KDSS line. Note: For some reason the two gusset bolts, with double lock washers and lock nuts, are 9/16 bolts (the instructions say 3/8... but my memory says 9/16)? All the other hardware is metric with 13mm heads.
Rear view of the rearmost mounting plate showing the KDSS line and a better view of the bolt-on reinforcing gusset.
Anyway, the install is very straightforward. The hardest thing is holding the slider still long enough to get the first bolt started in the threads. They aren't too heavy, but they are awkward to maneuver. Because they angle up the mounting plates want to pull away from the frame until the top bolts are tight. This isn't a big deal on the passenger side, but threatens to damage the KDSS lines on the driver side. It only takes two bolts to hold them in place though, then the rest can be done without having to hold them. I could get all the bolts started, then put a little pressure to adjust the fit before tightening them down. So, it would be an easy one man job, with a second person for about 2 minutes per side. My jack stands were too tall to help, by the way. I think I could one man these with a jack to hold one end, but it would be a fair bit harder, at least on the KDSS side.
With the slider on the ground I marked the holes that would get bolts. There are dozens of holes in the frame, but not all are threaded and not all threaded holes are used. Just look at the pattern and it's not too hard. Once the first bolt is in the rest line up automatically. One mounting hole, on my frame, didn't line up with anything. Maybe it's a model year or trim difference. The fit and finish seems great. I went with the pre-powdercoated version, and I don't see any blemishes or issues (some of the pics have a reflection or spot of anti-seize that look like problems in the powder coat. They aren't.) The welds are very well done. These are not the beefiest sliders I've seen, but they nicely double as a step for my wife and to stand on for roof access (roof rack is next) and i'd be stunned if one of them failed to do it's job given the trails I will use this rig on. The cleanliness underneath is from being new, by the way. It hasn't rained since I bought this rig, so no mud yet. The OPOR stickers will probably be coming off soon. Sorry, but the white/orange just doesn't look right on my Barcelona Red and black rig.
Note: I used anti-seize on the bolts. I figured it was either that or locktite, and I'd rather check the bolts once in a while than need a torch and breaker bar to pull them off.
First, some pics. Rig is currently factory height with factory tire size.
Front fitment:
Rear fitment: Pro tip: remove the little mudguard extension (aka the "mudguardlet") prior to putting in the front bolts. Otherwise it takes about 6 hands to hold everything and switch sockets. I actually loosened the bolts and shifted this down about 1/8in after this picture was taken. There is a tiny little plastic nub, on the black plastic trim piece, that was barely touching, and I decided I didn't like it.
Now for underneath. There are two brackets holding the KDSS lines to the frame REARWARD from the KDSS pump. These bolts need to be completely removed as the threaded holes will be used for mounting the sliders. I did not have to loosen the pump or use anything to bend the lines out other than my pulling with my fingers. Leave the brackets attached to the lines.
I ignored the instructions, which say to do the top center bolt first. I think this would be better if doing a solo install, but is an issue for the KDSS side because you have to fit the mounting plates between the frame and the KDSS lines. I was terrified I would slide the plate up, then lose hold of it and the weight of the slider pulling down and out would leave me bathing in hydraulic fluid. So, we did the front bolt 1/2 tight first, and let the slider hang down in the back (propped up with my boot). Then we lifted the back slowly and pulled just a bit on the KDSS lines so the mounting plates slipped up between them and the frame. Then we held it in place with the rearmost bolt. With that done, all it takes is threading in the rest of the bolts and torquing them down slowly while adjusting the slider position.
This is the middle mounting plate, prior to adjusting the slider upward and prior to adding the bolt that also holds the KDSS line bracket. Pull out just a bit on the line and the bracket will slide up. That's anti-seize by the bolt head, not damaged powder coat.
Front view of the rearmost mounting plate showing the KDSS line and the bolt-on reinforcing gusset. The gusset must go on AFTER mounting the slider, since it goes around the KDSS line. Note: For some reason the two gusset bolts, with double lock washers and lock nuts, are 9/16 bolts (the instructions say 3/8... but my memory says 9/16)? All the other hardware is metric with 13mm heads.
Rear view of the rearmost mounting plate showing the KDSS line and a better view of the bolt-on reinforcing gusset.
Anyway, the install is very straightforward. The hardest thing is holding the slider still long enough to get the first bolt started in the threads. They aren't too heavy, but they are awkward to maneuver. Because they angle up the mounting plates want to pull away from the frame until the top bolts are tight. This isn't a big deal on the passenger side, but threatens to damage the KDSS lines on the driver side. It only takes two bolts to hold them in place though, then the rest can be done without having to hold them. I could get all the bolts started, then put a little pressure to adjust the fit before tightening them down. So, it would be an easy one man job, with a second person for about 2 minutes per side. My jack stands were too tall to help, by the way. I think I could one man these with a jack to hold one end, but it would be a fair bit harder, at least on the KDSS side.
With the slider on the ground I marked the holes that would get bolts. There are dozens of holes in the frame, but not all are threaded and not all threaded holes are used. Just look at the pattern and it's not too hard. Once the first bolt is in the rest line up automatically. One mounting hole, on my frame, didn't line up with anything. Maybe it's a model year or trim difference. The fit and finish seems great. I went with the pre-powdercoated version, and I don't see any blemishes or issues (some of the pics have a reflection or spot of anti-seize that look like problems in the powder coat. They aren't.) The welds are very well done. These are not the beefiest sliders I've seen, but they nicely double as a step for my wife and to stand on for roof access (roof rack is next) and i'd be stunned if one of them failed to do it's job given the trails I will use this rig on. The cleanliness underneath is from being new, by the way. It hasn't rained since I bought this rig, so no mud yet. The OPOR stickers will probably be coming off soon. Sorry, but the white/orange just doesn't look right on my Barcelona Red and black rig.
