Options for more lift in the front

[Idahosr5]

I installed an OME setup a few months back and was happy....well for a while. Can't live with the front 1.75 inches lower than the rear now. Its 881's up front and 890's in the back. I opted for the cheaper rough country struts/shocks. The rear rides a bit rough but Im ok with it. Off road is great.

What are my options to get the front up. The toytec 1" spacer says it only lifts 3/4" so that makes the front still lower.

Will 883's work with the rough country nitro 9000's? and will it match the rear? Don't want the front higher than the rear.

How do the bilstein adjustable heigth struts work? Could I replace my fron struts with those and combo it with the 881's?

 

[Idahosr5]

After some reading it seems the tundra 5100 struts have 5 adjustments. Has anyone paired these with the 881's?

Or a whole other route.... Toytec coilovers....?

 

[JohnsD90]

Just do the spacer up front, a 1" difference is barely noticeable and rake looks good especially at 1" difference. If it kills you that much, just put some weight in the trunk to even it out.

 

[alexb]

How much did the 881's lift the front from stock? I just ordered a set of 891's for the rear and am about to get 881's for the front, but if there is that much of a difference then I'm not so sure about it. I wouldn't mind a little rake but almost 2 inches sounds like a lot. I thought the 881's were good for a 2.5" lift in the front?

 

[jonwilly2]

I would get a spacer for between the spring and top of the strut

 

[Idahosr5]

I didn't take any base line measurements so I dunno....doh. As it sits now measuring center of hub to fender flare edge there is a 1.75 inch difference.(with the rear cargo empty, stock bumper, and spare in place) In my opinion it looks fine. It was worse before the rear settled a bit. Reason I want the front higher is for a bit more clearance. I ripped the licence plate off the other day going up a steep incline.

 

[opie74]

Did you relieve the tension on the arm bushings? The bushings are tightened at normal ride height. Changing the ride height without relieving the tension will bind the suspension a bit and not allow the full lift.

 

[Stick Figure]

Idahosr5

As far as leveling, I know the how you feel, If I unload the back of mine I have a good amount of rake as well. I also know that since I leave the tools, recovery/towing gear, and fridge in the truck pretty much full time that it sits pretty level on a daily basis.

What front bumper do you have? If you have an upgraded front bumper, but stock rear, I would decide on a rear bumper before you mess with the suspension much more. Remember those OME springs are not designed to be sold by amount of lift, they are designed to be sold by amount of extra weight carrying ability.

 

[Idahosr5]

Did you relieve the tension on the arm bushings? The bushings are tightened at normal ride height. Changing the ride height without relieving the tension will bind the suspension a bit and not allow the full lift.

Was completely unaware of this. Will have to try it. Do you do upper and lower?

I have stock front and rear bumpers...no funds for it right now.

So I think im gonna add the toytec 1" spacer, and try relieving that tension. Are there and other top plate spacers? cornfed maybe?

thanks guys

 

[3rd gen king]

Arent you going to MAXX out the front suspension (max 3" right?)

 

[Idahosr5]

Yeah 3" is the general concensus, otherwise you will smoke the CV's. But with the 881's and the 1" top spacer It probly wont be a true 3" . a lot of people have run the 881's and top spacer with no probs, other than some not liking the 881s. I do have the 1" diff drop so it should be ok.

 

[opie74]

Was completely unaware of this. Will have to try it. Do you do upper and lower?

I have stock front and rear bumpers...no funds for it right now.

So I think im gonna add the toytec 1" spacer, and try relieving that tension. Are there and other top plate spacers? cornfed maybe?

thanks guys

The lowers will be done when you get it aligned, assuming there is need to loosen them. The uppers you can do by simply loosening the nut on the bolt going through the arm while the truck is sitting on its own weight. The bushings letting the tension go should be noticeable. Then tighten it back up. IIRC, torque value is 87 foot pounds. But double check to make sure.

 

[opie74]

Yeah 3" is the general concensus, otherwise you will smoke the CV's. But with the 881's and the 1" top spacer It probly wont be a true 3" . a lot of people have run the 881's and top spacer with no probs, other than some not liking the 881s. I do have the 1" diff drop so it should be ok.

I am running the 881 with top spacer and 890 in the rear. After I replaced my upper arms, I gained a bit more lift in the front and I dont think its because of the arms. I think its because I relieved the tension on the bushings. My front now sits about 1/2" higher than the rear. I am going to take the top spacer out and see where I sit. Im not exactly sure how much total lift I netted as I never measured prior to lift, but even with the diff drop in with how it sits currently, the ribs on the CV boots are touching. I personally do not feel the angle is to much, but it may be getting close.

 

[3rd gen king]

Yeah 3" is the general concensus, otherwise you will smoke the CV's. But with the 881's and the 1" top spacer It probly wont be a true 3" . a lot of people have run the 881's and top spacer with no probs, other than some not liking the 881s. I do have the 1" diff drop so it should be ok.

Well how about if I'm 2wd can I lift more?? Or will it kill the rack and pinion

 

[Idahosr5]

I am running the 881 with top spacer and 890 in the rear. After I replaced my upper arms, I gained a bit more lift in the front and I dont think its because of the arms. I think its because I relieved the tension on the bushings. My front now sits about 1/2" higher than the rear. I am going to take the top spacer out and see where I sit. Im not exactly sure how much total lift I netted as I never measured prior to lift, but even with the diff drop in with how it sits currently, the ribs on the CV boots are touching. I personally do not feel the angle is to much, but it may be getting close.

Thats interesting that now the front is higher...Going to look into it and loosen the uppers this weekend. Will take a before and after measurment.

And on a 2wd I dunno. No CV's to worry about. Not sure one the steering. But you will run out of alignment the higher you go. I think even a 3" lift runs a 4runner past its alignment adjustments..but it's not significant enough to cause any real probs.

 

[Duhockey]

The easiest way is to just bite the bullet and do a toytec coilover
its gonna ride the best.

I cant imagine the ride with the OME which is rigid already paired with an aluminum spacer... ugh...

with no cvs... heck, put some lc coils in the back, way soft... and then the toytec coilovers in front and crank em up to 4", thats about where I have em.. I think its the best ride for those that dont have too much weight in the back of their runners.

the LC coils just ride so NICE! :biggrin2:

 

[Idahosr5]

The lowers will be done when you get it aligned, assuming there is need to loosen them. The uppers you can do by simply loosening the nut on the bolt going through the arm while the truck is sitting on its own weight. The bushings letting the tension go should be noticeable. Then tighten it back up. IIRC, torque value is 87 foot pounds. But double check to make sure.

Looked at the UCA bolt today...how do you get a big wrench in there when the tire is on (keeping the truck on it's own weight. Im guessing jack it up from the LCA and remove the tire, then return the hub to its original possition????

What happens if you ust loosen it when you install the coils when there is no weight on it. Someone mentioned they loosened the uppers when they installed a lift and that made it easier to get the coil in.

 

[opie74]

Looked at the UCA bolt today...how do you get a big wrench in there when the tire is on (keeping the truck on it's own weight. Im guessing jack it up from the LCA and remove the tire, then return the hub to its original possition????

What happens if you ust loosen it when you install the coils when there is no weight on it. Someone mentioned they loosened the uppers when they installed a lift and that made it easier to get the coil in.

IIRC, its either a 17mm or 19mm. You may have to pull the small splash shield on the rearward side of the bolt. If you have lifted the front, there should be nothing in your way to get an open or closed end wrench on one side and a socket on the other.

It has to be resting on its own weight with the tire installed. Resting on the LCA will not allow the suspension to sit in the same spot because the contact area of the wheel sits out farther than the place you can jack up the LCA. Think leverage.

Yes, loosen it to help the install of the lift. This allows the bushings to rotate rather than fighting the rubber inside the bushing. Then once you get everything put back together, tire on and off the jack and stands, tighten the UCA mount bolt.

Also.... things go MUCH smoother if you free the lower arm from the knuckle as well. Either by removing the four bolts holding the BJ on, or separating the BJ from the knuckle. This will allow you to lower the arm free of the knuckle and CV. Trick is to place your jack under the LCA where you can get to the four BJ mounting bolts, get some weight on the jack. Remove the bolts and then slowly lower the jack. You will have to support the knuckle... I did it by placing a jackstand under the rotor.

Youll find most mention needing to use their stock jack to push things down, or a long pry bar.... If you loosen the UCA bolt and free the LCA from the knuckle, it goes alot smoother and you will not need to use the stock jack or a pry bar.

ETA: The reason some find the use of the stock jack to push the arms down is because they are pushing against the tension of the LCA and UCA bushings.