OSPHO Rust Converter - it WORKS!

[BamaDrewski]

I learned about OSPHO a few years back when I was talking to an old, professional painter. He was redoing some cast iron railings for a local lady.

I bought some at a local Sherwin Williams paint store. This weekend, I spent most of the day spraying it on some rusted spots (surface rust - not rusted through). After it dried, it left a nice, slick, black surface ready for paint.

The touch ups I did on the rust a few years ago with the same product are still rust free.

Just another option for everyone to consider.....

 

[Mark_BC]

Yeah it seems good, just don't breath it in... and it etches concrete so don't drip it anywhere. Or touch your skin. Also don't even look at it, it can burn your retinas off.

 

[Ifirefight]

I used to use it back in the day when I did auto body. The correct way to do it grind or preferably sand blast the area. Spray on the ospho, let it dry and then either fill any holes you created, prime and paint.
And I’m a retired “old” body man.. 52 is old I’m guessing to you young uns.


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[LittleCaesar]

I learned about OSPHO a few years back when I was talking to an old, professional painter. He was redoing some cast iron railings for a local lady.

I bought some at a local Sherwin Williams paint store. This weekend, I spent most of the day spraying it on some rusted spots (surface rust - not rusted through). After it dried, it left a nice, slick, black surface ready for paint.

The touch ups I did on the rust a few years ago with the same product are still rust free.

Just another option for everyone to consider.....

Rust in Sweet Home Bama? :shrug: I guess if you live near the coast.

As [MENTION=146628]Mark_BC[/MENTION] stated, don't spend time breathing the stuff in.Bad things can happen to one's body....

 

[RAD4Runner]

Thanks for this info!
Makes sense, because it has phosphoric which is a popular rust converting chemical.
You did have to rinse off the excess solution, correct?
Found another mention of it compared with other rust converters for reference...
https://ncptt.nps.gov/blog/comparative-study-of-commercially-available-rust-converters/

 

[kolelt]

When I hear of a rust killer. I don’t think about, grinding and sand blasting. Because grinding and sand blasting basically gets rid of rust right there. A rust killer to me, is a product that can DIRECTLY be laid over rust. And it stops it from spreading more.

 

[Ifirefight]

When I hear of a rust killer. I don’t think about, grinding and sand blasting. Because grinding and sand blasting basically gets rid of rust right there. A rust killer to me, is a product that can DIRECTLY be laid over rust. And it stops it from spreading more.

Technically yes, but in reality you really need to remove any and all rust as possible. Then apply the ospho and let it dry. That way you are sealing up the bare metal so no air or moisture can get to it.
Think about the layers of rusted metal that have accumulated..spraying ospho on top of those layers does nothing for the layers in between..it cannot penetrate, and therefore will rust again.
I’m just putting in my .02 cents, but I did do high end restorations for 20 years.. will it stop it 100 percent, no. But this is the proper way to do it.


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[BamaDrewski]

I have only had to scrape off loose flakes of rust and then apply. It turns the rust black and then I paint or seal it. We do not have much rust in Alabama and the rust I do have is mostly cosmetic. I agree it should not be inhaled as with any chemical. A little of this goes a LONG WAY. You can brush it on or spray it. I prefer the brush. No need to wipe off the excess...just let it dry and then paint/coat.

 

[Riceye]

Technically yes, but in reality you really need to remove any and all rust as possible.

With all due respect to your experience, this is just not true. The true rust converters benefit from a certain amount of oxide present, as the reaction changes the ferric oxide to ferric tannate (or ferric phosphate in the case of Ospho) which acts as a protective film.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

Surface prep should include removal of loose rust, though, as that would eventually flake off exposing untreated steel. Follow up with appropriate primer and finish for painted surfaces or a good underbody material (Fluid Film - type products, not asphalt based undercoating) to protect the newly converted rust barrier.

 

[kolelt]

But if you grind or sand blast ( probably best way to remove rust ) and then prime over it and paint. No difference than using rust sealer/converter on cleaned metal. Clean metal is clean metal. Im more interested in a product that truly STOPS rust when applied on rust.

 

[BamaDrewski]

But if you grind or sand blast ( probably best way to remove rust ) and then prime over it and paint. No difference than using rust sealer/converter on cleaned metal. Clean metal is clean metal. Im more interested in a product that truly STOPS rust when applied on rust.

I think the point is this: there needs to be some rust present for a chemical reaction to form a primer when using OSPHO. If you get the metal clean, then just paint it or apply a sealer of choice. (Why apply rust converter to metal with no rust?)

For me, crawling around under my rig wire brushing everything is a real PITA. I do not have that much rust but being OCD, I want what little rust I do have, to stop rusting in its tracks.....I like to try and stay ahead of it......

 

[Riceye]

Here's another very informative page from a well-respected industry manufacturer.

https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/encapsulator-vs-converter/

From this page - "DO NOT EVER apply Rust Converter over bare metal. This product needs 100% rust present for it to work. In fact virgin, clean metal could actually flash rust if Rust Converter is applied and left on it."

 

[Ifirefight]

I think the point is this: there needs to be some rust present for a chemical reaction to form a primer when using ospho. (Why apply rust converter to metal with no rust?)

it......

Correct...there does need be be some rust present for it to do its job. My point is, IF you can remove the rust with sandblasting or grinding that is the best scenario.. we did the best we could, THEN applied the ospho in case there were areas that may have been missed.. if you cannot get to every area then this might be a product to consider. Like I said, we did higher end restorations and were taking ever precaution to stop the spread of the rust. As far as why not just prime and paint the “clean metal” .. there are some self etching primers but most people use regular primer which can let moisture through,ospho helps “seal” the raw metal.
Really no way to stop rust , but it can be slowed down.




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[meRockboost]

I use ospho in bilges on boats where I can't get a needle gun or sander at. That stuff is great but I'm getting cancer even thinking about it. Nasty stuff.

 

[kolelt]

I guess what I’m trying to say. Is, cleaning the metal and applying a product such as por15 is different then applying it over a rusty area and stopping rust. By converter I meant a product that stops rusts. If I’m sand blasting. Or grinding. You shouldn’t need a product like OSPHO. I’d just simply like to see a true customer longevity vs a company saying it works. I feel like these products aren’t cheap. And it’s a mixed review vs a bold one. Just speaking you know.

Wish we as customers, could truly either get a product or be told the truth.

 

[BamaDrewski]

I guess what I’m trying to say. Is, cleaning the metal and applying a product such as por15 is different then applying it over a rusty area and stopping rust. By converter I meant a product that stops rusts. If I’m sand blasting. Or grinding. You shouldn’t need a product like OSPHO. I’d just simply like to see a true customer longevity vs a company saying it works. I feel like these products aren’t cheap. And it’s a mixed review vs a bold one. Just speaking you know.

Wish we as customers, could truly either get a product or be told the truth.

I agree to an extent. My first-hand experience is enough for me but might not be enough for anyone else....I get that.

From my experience, OSPHO has worked wonders. The viscosity is like water so it seeps and creeps like water. I am sure there are probably benefits to a thicker consistency product but in my case, it has worked well. There is no reason for me to misrepresent my experience with the product as I do not care whether someone uses it or not. I am just relaying my experience and I am sure there is a big chance everyone's experience with the same product might be different....

I love this forum because we can all exchange ideas and our actual experiences with techniques, products and different approaches. Maybe what works for one does not work for another. Regardless, I wanted to share my experience with OSPHO.