P0125: Freeze frame data

[4'running'26]

P0125: Freeze frame data - Please Help

I had recently been pulling two codes on my 2000 5VZE-fe. I had P0171 and P0125. With that, my engine temperature WAS reaching normal range: 188-190.

I have since replaced the MAF (the old one was extremely dirty) and just completed a 120 mile trip, nearly completely interstate at 70 MPH and now this is what I am getting from my P0125 code from the OBD from my scan gauge ii.

PID00 --
PID01 --
PID02 = 0125
PID03 = 0800 (loop is open)
PID04 = 78 (LOD = 46)
PID05 = 7F (WT deg. F =188)
PID06 = 80
PID07 = 99
PID08 --
PID09 --
PID0A --
PID0B --
PID0C = 1202 (RPM = 2305)
PID0D = 71 (MPH = 70)
PID0E --
PID0F = 2A (IAT deg. F = 35)
The rest of them were blank.

I have no idea what much of that means in terms of the code. I'm sure on of you gurus has some ideas though.

Thanks guys.

 

[TheDurk]

How old id your A/F? If over 80k, it is your likely culprit.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip0125o.pdf

 

[4'running'26]

Thanks Durk.

I replaced it about 40k ago but after coming across some other threads I'm wondering if I did a good enough job of removing the old gasket and getting a six contact with the new sensor. Maybe I should look into it again.

What are some other, less likely scenarios?

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks Durk.

I replaced it about 40k ago but after coming across some other threads I'm wondering if I did a good enough job of removing the old gasket and getting a six contact with the new sensor. Maybe I should look into it again.

What are some other, less likely scenarios?

See the FSM link I posted.

 

[Jmabry66]

Thanks Durk.

I replaced it about 40k ago but after coming across some other threads I'm wondering if I did a good enough job of removing the old gasket and getting a six contact with the new sensor. Maybe I should look into it again.

What are some other, less likely scenarios?

So I had this happen and it has to do with your loop, opening and closing. I found a few different answers a durks link said, but I tried everything before replacing anything big and it went away.

 

[4'running'26]

How old id your A/F? If over 80k, it is your likely culprit.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip0125o.pdf

Am i supposed to be able to see the voltage from the freeze frame data somewhere? Or do I have to do that in real time with my Scanguage ii?

 

[TheDurk]

Am i supposed to be able to see the voltage from the freeze frame data somewhere? Or do I have to do that in real time with my Scanguage ii?

I use my Torque app/Android tablet. Don't know about Scangauge. I don't think that is logged in freeze frame but I never looked. A single static value would not be much help, anyway.

 

[4'running'26]

I use my Torque app/Android tablet. Don't know about Scangauge. I don't think that is logged in freeze frame but I never looked. A single static value would not be much help, anyway.

Ok, thanks guys. I think it will display the value while moving, so I'll go out soon and check it at the FSM specified conditions.

Thanks again. I may be back with more questions...

 

[4'running'26]

I use my Torque app/Android tablet. Don't know about Scangauge. I don't think that is logged in freeze frame but I never looked. A single static value would not be much help, anyway.

This is becoming immensely frustrating. I tried reading the voltage value while at speed, after warmed up, etc and the only "real time" value I could find on the Scanguage ii read 14.1 give or take a tenth. What the heck is that? It seemingly not what I am looking for. I am tempted to just replace the entire A/F sensor again but am afraid that I might do that and still have the same problem.

What are the chances that it is the wiring from the sensor to the ECU, or something of that nature, that is causing the problem and not the sensor itself? Do I actually need to get a voltmeter on it to check? Sorry, way out of the "loop" on this one. Sorry for the bad pun...just tired of seeing "loop open" on my Scanguage.

I wouldn't worry about it if I wasn't getting like 13 MPGs. I used to get great gas mileage with 'er.

 

[DK327]

this morning after driving about 10 miles at around 65 MPH my coolant temp was only at 140 degrees F. or so. Seems as if the coolant really isn't reaching normal temp.

Wouldn't a stuck open thermostat cause this?

 

[4'running'26]

Wouldn't a stuck open thermostat cause this?

Oops, I meant to edit that out. I realized that I was actually looking at the transmission fluid temp instead of the water temp.

 

[TheDurk]

This is becoming immensely frustrating. I tried reading the voltage value while at speed, after warmed up, etc and the only "real time" value I could find on the Scanguage ii read 14.1 give or take a tenth. What the heck is that? It seemingly not what I am looking for. I am tempted to just replace the entire A/F sensor again but am afraid that I might do that and still have the same problem.

What are the chances that it is the wiring from the sensor to the ECU, or something of that nature, that is causing the problem and not the sensor itself? Do I actually need to get a voltmeter on it to check? Sorry, way out of the "loop" on this one. Sorry for the bad pun...just tired of seeing "loop open" on my Scanguage.

I wouldn't worry about it if I wasn't getting like 13 MPGs. I used to get great gas mileage with 'er.

14.1 is presumably full battery voltage while engine is running. See if it goes to 12 or so with engine not running. That would trigger specific codes from the ECU as it implies a full sensor short and you don't have those so I assume you are reading the wrong PID. A/Fs are very different than O2s and maybe ScanGuage does not know how to deal with that. In any case, you really don't want to stay stuck in open loop. You will run rich, killing your cats and MPG.

 

[4'running'26]

14.1 is presumably full battery voltage while engine is running. See if it goes to 12 or so with engine not running. That would trigger specific codes from the ECU as it implies a full sensor short and you don't have those so I assume you are reading the wrong PID. A/Fs are very different than O2s and maybe ScanGuage does not know how to deal with that. In any case, you really don't want to stay stuck in open loop. You will run rich, killing your cats and MPG.

Makes sense. Maybe I'll just try replacing the A/F again and see what happens. I'm non-Cali spec so it isn't that expensive of an attempt at fixing the issue. It's possible I didn't replace the seal/gasket last time which I'm guessing would cause an issue. There's no way the rear sensor, after the cat, could be causing the issue, is there?

If replacing the A/F sensor doesn't do it, what's the most likely culprit?

Wiring? ECU?

Sorry, I know you linked the diagnostics procedure but I am having a hard time following it, especially without a proper OBDii scanner apparently.

Thanks for all of your help.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

You fix this?

 

[MarkamisPrime]

I had recently been pulling two codes on my 2000 5VZE-fe. I had P0171 and P0125. With that, my engine temperature WAS reaching normal range: 188-190.

I have since replaced the MAF (the old one was extremely dirty) and just completed a 120 mile trip, nearly completely interstate at 70 MPH and now this is what I am getting from my P0125 code from the OBD from my scan gauge ii.

PID00 --
PID01 --
PID02 = 0125
PID03 = 0800 (loop is open)
PID04 = 78 (LOD = 46)
PID05 = 7F (WT deg. F =188)
PID06 = 80
PID07 = 99
PID08 --
PID09 --
PID0A --
PID0B --
PID0C = 1202 (RPM = 2305)
PID0D = 71 (MPH = 70)
PID0E --
PID0F = 2A (IAT deg. F = 35)
The rest of them were blank.

I have no idea what much of that means in terms of the code. I'm sure on of you gurus has some ideas though.

Thanks guys.

Have you fixed this ?

 

[jaunty]

I had the p0171 and assumed it was the O2 sensor (A/F) but it was not.

Check the hoses at the intake for cracks. I had a crack causing a good air leak. It was very hard to see until i physically pulled off some tubes.

Also, clean the MAF really good, there are some little wires that are not visible and hard to reach that are often overlooked when cleaning it.

 

[BN-2B]

Greetings Compañeros,

Been chasing codes with this Runner since our paths crossed a year and a half ago.
Down to the last one, the illusive P0125...
Often together with P0130 and P0133, sometimes with P0171.
I've replaced both o2 sensors, cleaned, swapped and checked the MAF and blown smoke into the intake in search of leaks.
She runs pretty smooth but the MPG is embarrassingly low.

We have conflicting Freeze Frame Data:

...Could the ECU be batty?

Today's discovery was that the cooling fan does not spin freely at all when the engine is off and cold.
Could a sticky fan clutch be the root?

—•••—

 

[BN-2B]

So, the reason I'm thinking the ECU may be whack is because the Fuel System 1 Status alternates between 'open loop' and 'closed loop' in the separate Freeze Frame Data. Is that logical?

BTW, the link posted in the beginning of this thread is no longer available;

How old id your A/F? If over 80k, it is your likely culprit.

Free Web Hosting - Your Website need to be migrated

Big Thanks to TheDurk for providing super valuable information in so many of the threads that have made reviving my ride possible.