P2420, P0452, P0453 EVAP ECM PCM Charcoal Canister

McGyver9

New member
This is on a (new to ME) vehicle '06 V6, that has spent it entire life in the most godforsaken salt-laden, rusted fender flappin' armpit of the country.
(Upstate NY..NEVER buy a used vehicle from up here! EVER!!!)
Have been getting these codes for 10 months....fiddling with gas caps and cutting/re-attaching brittle vacuum lines....but NOW it has to pass the communist state of NY inspection. $hit is getting REAL now!

Had to cut the f'n spare tire off with a grinder, because the lowering cable BS thing is locked up/rusted, to get to this beautiful piece of environmentally friendly engineering....while everyone over-flows filling their lawnmowers/weedeaters...

4Runner - Google Photos

I can't believe that I'm the first to have this happen.
I've spent DAYS in this forum searching...(w/ the terrible 'search' function)
NOT new to Forums...I had an '82 VW Corrado G60...the QUEEN of gremlins..
Am I somehow missing this information?

Also, I'm kind of disappointed that, at this point, nobody has figured out a way to trick the ECM into thinking that everything in the EVAP system is just fine, using a few resistors, RATHER than buying another one of these stupid $700 piece of shiznit "assemblies", from the stealership...
Because THIS ridiculous expenditure comes up EVERYWHERE!
As you can see from my photos, simply buying a new POS isn't going to solve my problem...needs a new harness too..

What's wrong with you guys/tinkers here? :doh::laugh:

Is there anyone here with the 'scan tool' that can tell me "what" the ECM is "looking" for, ("values"..on this wiring harness) when it performs an "evaporative emissions system leak test"? (voltages/ohms of resistance)

OR, how to trick it into NOT doing a "test" at ALL???
If you read this article linked below, there are Temp and pressure parameters that need to be met for it to even go into "test mode".
Would a resistor in any of THESE places (tell it that it's 65 degrees, for instance) do that, or would it throw everything else out of wack??

Be a Toyota leak detective | 2011-03-29 | Auto Service Professional

ALL of this said, has anyone else ever cracked one of these open like this before?

I'm wondering what's going on with these other (three) unaccounted for pins in the plug. (of COURSE one of them are the ones rotted off/see last photo)
I've traced the 4 obvious interior connections to their pins.
Have to say, those RD and BK pins don't look like they have made contact in quite a while. Totally black w/ corrosion.
Obviously the other two, going to the other bit in there, whatever it is, are GONE...

There is an o-ring'd piece that goes from this cap part (with the pins molded into the cap) into the main body. (labeled in the photos)
I'm guessing it is the "atmospheric pressure sensor", with maybe a little diaphragm in there with a positional rheostat contact or something?
It's sealed tight/won't pop off. Don't want to start hacking into it before I find out if anyone else has got into this.

I can obviously by-pass the "plug" situation on a couple of these, drilling/siliconing/direct wiring them to the harness, but what's up with the other ones?

Anyone?
NOT trying to sound like a dik...just trying to be funny...sort-of..
THIS sucks!

Thanks in advance!
 
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I have been going through this as well but I don't think that I will be much help. I can only relate to your frustration. I have been dealing with a P0452 for the longest time and searching on here, as well as everywhere else on the net, gave me little to go on but kept digging. The P0452 is for low voltage and P0453 is for high voltage at the pressure switch. The pressure switch is built into the canister, which took me a while to figure out. There is a 06' repair manual in pdf that you can download on here so that you can find the specs for the terminals. Ultimately I ended up buying a new charcoal canister only to find a corroded terminal. You can get the canister for around $310 plus shipping from McGeorge Toyota or some of the other online retailers. I ordered on the 13th and it came today. Local dealer wanted $455. After drilling the mounting bolts to drop it, since they were rusted on good, I found one of the pins to have corroded and broke off inside of the harness connector. I know I saw on here somewhere that another member found the connector and got some extra wire to provide some more slack because theirs broke off before the connector. I am in the process of tracking down that thread because I do not want to have to buy the entire harness. This site has a ton of info but sometimes you have to piece it all together to get to your specific dilemma. I am hoping to find the connector and that all is good after that as I have to deal with Ohio's E-Check in order to renew my tags. Best of luck and I hope this helps a little.
 
I can't help with your evap canister problem, but I can help you search this forum better.

Instead of using the search feature here, go to Google (or just use Chrome) and search "p0452 site:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/"

The fault codes or words in front is what Google will search for, so you may have to play around with those to find what you're looking for. You could try the other fault codes or evap canister or charcoal canister etc. The site: part searches the whole 4th gen section of this forum, all 1929 pages worth of posts.

This is how I find what I'm looking for, don't bother with the search function built into the forum.
 
did you try replacing the fuel tank cap first? then clear the codes and test again?

That was the first thing that I did.Replaced the auto parts one that I bought a few years back with a OEM from local Toyota dealer. The issue for me was a pin that had corroded and broke off in the connector. I ended up buying a new canister, connector and wires from Toyota, A little over $400 to repair but all is good now and CEL is gone. Now onto the rear wheel bearings for my next fix.
 

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