skilledoat
New member
Hello all
as the title says I have a 3VZE in a 91 4runner auto that keeps having its dipstick pushed out after a short drive. Just want some additional input, but I think I know a 5VZ/V8 swap is in my future. However I would like to get this engine to last if I can get it to stop doing this.
When I got it ran and drove fine but had very stumbly idle, excessively sluggish to get going. Since then I've done the timing belt kit, replaced spark plugs, wires, hoses, vacuum lines, gaskets, suspension pieces, etc. Idled and drove much better for a good while, but still had to pop it into neutral to keep rpms from dipping at stops. I dont recall the dipstick popping out early on in my ownership of it, but it may have just not as bad.
Decided to tackle the vacuum lines spaghetti. EGR was malfunctioning, vacuum lines were not only on wrong when I got it but the hard lines were clogged. Tried to save it to no avail. Simplified that mess and again minor improvement but dipstick would pop out. Put the rest of vacuum lines back as they were.
Next up did the obvious step of replacing the PCV valve/grommet/hose this was about a year ago in the spring. While I was under the manifold also replaced some other rotted vacuum lines and old gaskets. Also did the breather hose and vent on driver side. Once again I put the vacuum lines back as they were.
Now this winter I noticed the dipstick being pushed out still and felt myself growing a bit more mad. Traced all the vacuum lines only to find out the FPR and some other lines were mixed up. Either my mistake or was like that since I got it and trusted the orientation I got it with. With my vacuum lines finally properly sorted it idled great. Dipstick still kept popping out.
Took it to a friends shop with a compression tester. Got 170-175 psi all around, and I was a bit shocked since I at this point I was expecting rings to be my issue. We tried and failed at a leak down test (was getting late and engine kept spinning over). Replacing the spark plugs noticed some way out of spec gaps.
Did some other simple tests like taking the oil fill cap off and putting a shop glove on. It does vacuum it down.
Just last week out of curiosity I decided to check the PCV again (so much easier to get off when the grommet isn't hard as a rock). Sure enough it was clogged to the point it wouldn't rattle like a new one should. Threw new OEM one in, put everything back together and at this point the truck idles and drives great. Did a short rip around the block and it seemed fine. Do a longer trip to get it fully up to operating temp and....
Once again the damn dipstick popped out.
At this point I'm guessing that I may have a sticking intake valve?
Doing the paper towel on the exhaust trick I don't get it trying to suck it in. My idle honestly seems buttery smooth compared to where its been.
Or maybe there is some kind of blockage in a baffle inside the passenger side valve cover? Something getting sucked in and blocking the valves?
Not sure if anyone else has any good theories or stuff to try.
as the title says I have a 3VZE in a 91 4runner auto that keeps having its dipstick pushed out after a short drive. Just want some additional input, but I think I know a 5VZ/V8 swap is in my future. However I would like to get this engine to last if I can get it to stop doing this.
When I got it ran and drove fine but had very stumbly idle, excessively sluggish to get going. Since then I've done the timing belt kit, replaced spark plugs, wires, hoses, vacuum lines, gaskets, suspension pieces, etc. Idled and drove much better for a good while, but still had to pop it into neutral to keep rpms from dipping at stops. I dont recall the dipstick popping out early on in my ownership of it, but it may have just not as bad.
Decided to tackle the vacuum lines spaghetti. EGR was malfunctioning, vacuum lines were not only on wrong when I got it but the hard lines were clogged. Tried to save it to no avail. Simplified that mess and again minor improvement but dipstick would pop out. Put the rest of vacuum lines back as they were.
Next up did the obvious step of replacing the PCV valve/grommet/hose this was about a year ago in the spring. While I was under the manifold also replaced some other rotted vacuum lines and old gaskets. Also did the breather hose and vent on driver side. Once again I put the vacuum lines back as they were.
Now this winter I noticed the dipstick being pushed out still and felt myself growing a bit more mad. Traced all the vacuum lines only to find out the FPR and some other lines were mixed up. Either my mistake or was like that since I got it and trusted the orientation I got it with. With my vacuum lines finally properly sorted it idled great. Dipstick still kept popping out.
Took it to a friends shop with a compression tester. Got 170-175 psi all around, and I was a bit shocked since I at this point I was expecting rings to be my issue. We tried and failed at a leak down test (was getting late and engine kept spinning over). Replacing the spark plugs noticed some way out of spec gaps.
Did some other simple tests like taking the oil fill cap off and putting a shop glove on. It does vacuum it down.
Just last week out of curiosity I decided to check the PCV again (so much easier to get off when the grommet isn't hard as a rock). Sure enough it was clogged to the point it wouldn't rattle like a new one should. Threw new OEM one in, put everything back together and at this point the truck idles and drives great. Did a short rip around the block and it seemed fine. Do a longer trip to get it fully up to operating temp and....
Once again the damn dipstick popped out.
At this point I'm guessing that I may have a sticking intake valve?
Doing the paper towel on the exhaust trick I don't get it trying to suck it in. My idle honestly seems buttery smooth compared to where its been.
Or maybe there is some kind of blockage in a baffle inside the passenger side valve cover? Something getting sucked in and blocking the valves?
Not sure if anyone else has any good theories or stuff to try.
