Parasitic Drain

[Toy2play]

I've got a drain of .28 Amps that I'm trying to track down. I've narrowed it down to the dome fuse. When I pull it, I get a reading of .04 Amps. I've tried to remove all my dome led lights thinking maybe one of them is causing it, but no difference. Shall my next step be to pull the fuse on my aftermarket head unit and see if that does anything? What else is on that circuit?

Edit: just pulled the antenna and the fuse on the head unit, no drop at all.

 

[metallitera]

0.04 sounds about in the normal range. You're not going to get to 0.000000 because there are things that take *some* power.

I ran into a similar issue on my wifes 2006 impala. Ended up being the body control module.

anyway, it sounds to me like you got it narrowed down to the LED dome light bulb(s). Where did you get them from? - I just installed some from superbright LEDs dot com.

 

[fourwd1]

I don't have a wiring diagram handy right now but there would be several other things on that fuse.

 

[fourwd1]

On modern vehicles that really isn't that much.

 

[Toy2play]

Just to be clear, in order to get down to .04 Amps I had to pull that fuse. I've put the fuse back in and tried to find what is pulling the .28 Amps. I've removed the 4 different interior lights, pulled the antenna from the head unit and pulled the fuse to the head unit with no drop in draw. I need to find out what else is on that circuit. I know anything under .05 is fairly normal for these 4runners, .28 Amps is not.

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] I need your expertise.

 

[metallitera]

15A DOME fuse:
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player

I can e-mail you FSM, as 28MB is too large to attach to a post

 

[19963.4lsr5]

You need to wait long enough for your modules to go to sleep. That can take 45min on some vehicles.

If you unhooked the battery to put your amp meter in line I’m pretty sure you need to wait a while for the pcm and any other modules (depending on your year) to go back to sleep/low power mode. Then look at the amp draw. Till those modules go to sleep they draw some current. Then 20ma to 40ma is a good general number. Which looks like this on a meter. .020a to .040a

Do you have resistors across your LED bulbs to stop the glowing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Toy2play]

15A DOME fuse:
Auto Antenna
Cigarette Lighter and Clock
Combination Meter
Garage Door Opener
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Interior Light
Radio and Player

I can e-mail you FSM, as 28MB is too large to attach to a post

Thanks I was just looking through it. I've got a copy of it. I'm an idiot, the extra .28 Amps is cause I'm leaving the door open and the door light in the cluster lite up. I thought I locked the door jam so it would think the door was closed. but apparently not. Now I'm back to my original reading of .06 which I first got when I started investigating this issue. The .06 doesn't so much concern me, but when I was reading the .28 Amps I started getting concerned. I really wish I could get it lower under .05 but with all the things I've added, I'm wondering if .06 is my new norm. I'm wondering if the URD 7th injector kit also draws a little power.

 

[Toy2play]

You need to wait long enough for your modules to go to sleep. That can take 45min on some vehicles.

If you unhooked the battery to put your amp meter in line I’m pretty sure you need to wait a while for the pcm and any other modules (depending on your year) to go back to sleep/low power mode. Then look at the amp draw. Till those modules go to sleep they draw some current. Then 20ma to 40ma is a good general number. Which looks like this on a meter. .020a to .040a

Do you have resistors across your LED bulbs to stop the glowing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you are totally right. So everytime I check the amps, even if i have left the cables off for hours, it would always read at least .06 or .08 amps(60-80ma) and this is what started it. Then the next time I checked it was ~260ma. Cause of the stupid door. So I went out and left the multimeter on the cables and about 2 min later its reading a solid 20ma. So I just tested this again. Took the lead off and put them back on, back to 60ma, but the about 2 min later it went back to 20ma. So this whole time I haven't left the leads on long enough to get a correct reading. It seems to trigger something in the circuit to wake up everytime I put the multimeter on the cable then goes into sleep mode a min or 2 later.

Well at least I learned something new today. Looks like nothing is wrong. Thanks for helping all.