PB Blast, Impact Wrench, Leverage, and Elbow Grease...what next?

[wnelax04sr5]

today i was planning on starting the install of my 3/2 spacer lift, but upon inspection of my 04's front ifs (non-xreas) i realized what 8 years of new england winters has done to the bolts. a liberal coating of pb blast with plenty of soak time, along with air tools and wrenches seemed to free up all the bolts except for the lower strut mount. any other ways i could possibly loosen that thing up?

 

[d_clark]

Heat.

 

[4RunnerFan]

Any other ways i could possibly loosen that thing up?

Kroil penetrating fluid (by Kano).

 

[08T4R]

Wrench and a hammer

 

[Evan B]

Another vote for heat. You don't need anything fancy, just get a little propane torch from a hardware store so that you can get the nut warm enough to expand a bit.

Fat Boy Propane Torch Kit 2-Piece-330141 at The Home Depot

 

[Antman]

Yup. Heat that sucker with a torch. You can also try the impact driver in forward (clockwise) to try to break it loose. Once it moves you should be home free!

Good luck.

 

[Sungod]

Did anyone mention heat? PB blaster is just good for adding more heat when it burns. Othwise the stuff is useless except for stopping your door from squeaking.

 

[zimm]

3 foot section of cast iron gas pipe (home depot) slipped over the 1/2" socket wrench handle. (Cheater bar)

 

[Offroader5]

The route I take on stubborn nuts/bolts is:
Penetrant (PB Blaster usually)...if that doesn't help:
Long breakover bar maybe with a cheater pipe...if still nothing:
Heat, then put the socket over the nut/bolt and give it a good whack with a dead blow.

Usually by the time I've reached the third step, It's gotten it done.

Only thing with heat is to be careful in areas where there are seals or boots (think TRE's) that will be reused or if it's near areas that are filled with grease like a packed bearing. If you're replacing the mentioned heat affected areas along with the part being removed, then it's not such a big deal.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Heat is going to be the best option to use to get that bolt off, gradually heat the bolt and nut itself, spray some PB blaster or Kroil to get between the thread and work it loose. Chances are it might end up being damaged coming off (i.e. it wipes out the threads just loosening up due to fusing, see it happen more on exhaust components that have a lot of rust.)

I'll be honest with you, in some cases with bolts like that where they just hold a part together rather than thread into it. I have just over torqued it until the head snaps off, push out what's left and use new hardware. But those bolts are rather large and not as easy to find replacements for.

 

[sonerick]

+1 on the cheater bar. Worked for me.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

thanks for all the advice guys, got a cheater bar and im going to try again tomorrow

 

[ebg18t]

I used a 30" cheater bar.

 

[JET4]

mix ATF and Acetone. 50% automatic transmission fluid / 50% acetone works better than pb blaster, wd 40 or anything else.

 

[zonianbrat]

Kroil and heat. We use Kroil at the powerplant I work at and it is amazing stuff. If you havent ever seen the inside of an industrial power plant we have some rather large nuts and bolts. It's insane....anyway if we come across stubborn nuts we spray kroil and let is soak for a little while then if it doesnt break loose we torch it and it usually comes right off. If not it's time to either cut it off with a grinder or air arc the bas**** off.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

mix ATF and Acetone. 50% automatic transmission fluid / 50% acetone works better than pb blaster, wd 40 or anything else.

This is something I have never heard of before. Any specific ATF Type?

 

[JET4]

I get whatever Walmart has the cheepest.

 

[JET4]

For All of you Mechanic's out there.


This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting article addressing 'Penetrating Oils'. Recently
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts
and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking
in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen
the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the
torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone
appears to beat out the commercially prepared products costing far more

 

[wnelax04sr5]

Progress

Update: had an almost 4ft section of steel as a breaker bar, it was a no go, nothing budged. im going to heat now, with the basic propane torch. if that doesnt work ive got a buddy who's dad runs a mobile big rig repair service out of his f450, hes got some tricks up his sleeve for siezed bolts

 

[Randyman...]

For All of you Mechanic's out there.


This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting article addressing 'Penetrating Oils'. Recently
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts
and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking
in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen
the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the
torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone
appears to beat out the commercially prepared products costing far more

Wow - That's some good info! :thanks: