Pinched power steering line, what to do?

ShooterMcGavin

New member
I think the previous owner got something stuck under the truck which pulled the power steering line and caused it to get pinched. I noticed it when I was installing the poly bushings for the steering rack. I want to flush the power steering fluid. I am having NO problem with my power steering. No extra noises or troubles. Onto my question...

Since I want to replace the fluid anyways, should I replace the pinched line now or just leave it as is because it's working ok now?

If it's not obvious, look to the right of the front drive shaft.



 
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If you spend any time offroad or run larger tires I would replace it. You don't fully need the volume that line provides until you try turning in rocks, sand or dirt. And that line will rust/fail right in that bend, and probably fail at the worst possible time.
 
If you spend any time offroad or run larger tires I would replace it. You don't fully need the volume that line provides until you try turning in rocks, sand or dirt. And that line will rust/fail right in that bend, and probably fail at the worst possible time.

Ok. The biggest tires I'll ever go with (I think) will be 285s. You are right about rust forming there too.

I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it ... buuuuuut
it's also only $40?

TUBE, STEERING RIGHT TURN PRESSURE for 1998 TOYOTA 4RUNNER. #4441835050

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking, and exactly why I posted this thread. I'm still not totally convinced either way :)

Another question... If I do replace that line, does it make bleeding the whole system a much longer, harder process, or is it just a tiny bit more work?
 
From the FSM:

POWER STEERING FLUID
BLEEDING
1. CHECK FLUID LEVEL (See page SR-5 )
2. JACK UP FRONT OF VEHICLE AND SUPPORT IT WITH STANDS
3. TURN STEERING WHEEL
With the engine stopped, turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock several times.
4. LOWER VEHICLE
5. START ENGINE
Run the engine at idle for a few minutes.
6. TURN STEERING WHEEL
(a) With the engine idling, turn the wheel to left or right full lock position and keep it there for 2 - 3 seconds, then turn the wheel to the opposite full lock position and keep it there for 2 - 3 seconds.
(b) Repeat (a) several times.
7. STOP ENGINE
8. CHECK FOR FOAMING OR EMULSIFICATION
If the system has to be bled twice specifically because of foaming or emulsification, check for fluid leaks in the system.
9. CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Annd... you're done! If you jack up the front end for more room when you remove the line it's literally a 5 min job to bleed.
 

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