Plz Help - Read Differential Replacement on 2004 v8

JMarkim

JMarkim

New member
Ok, so at 120,000 miles my 2004 v8 needs an entirely new rear differential. Zero doubt about it. The teeth have literally snapped off.

So... I am being quoted $2100, with install.

My question is:

A) Do I have chance getting Toyota to help me with this? I feel like a 2004 with 120k miles shouldn't be needing a $2000 repair due to faulty parts.

B) I have tried to find scrap/junk and parting out 4Runners on Craigslist to hopefully get the part cheaper. BuT! I live in Denver and all the 4runners here are 4WD. Will a 4WD differential or transmission parts fit a 2WD??; all other things equal (Automatic, V8, 2004)

C) If not... Where the hell can I find a 2004 V8 2WD Rear Diff for cheap??

Please help me out. 24 yrs old and cant afford a $2100 repair.
 
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Try contacting Chase Perry @ East Coast Gear Supply. That's who we all use around these parts: [email protected]

You can get completely built e-lockered 3rd members from them for $640. So I'd imagine a swap out for yours would be less. Or you can send them yours and have them rebuild it to save yourself the $400 core charge. Great company to work with and outstanding warranty. My buddy just ordered front and rear re-geared diffs as well as ARB air lockers and high output compressor from them. And when I'm ready (soon), I'll be ordering from them as well.

Hope that helps. Good luck!
 
x3 on www.eastcostgearsupply.com they will build a stock diff for you for $525 + shipping. they ship there's out with a call tag so you can ship yours back. they have a 300 dollar core charge but allow you 3 weeks to return your core before they charge you for the core charge. the offer a 5 year warranty on all there work and the third member will come to you built ready to bolt in all you have to do is remove your axle hubs disconnect your ABS sensors and sensor wires, disconnect your emergency brake cable and slide your axle/hub assemblies out. then unbolt the drive shaft from the pinion yoke flange, then unbolt the third member carrier assembly ship out the old one and bolt in the new diff from ECGS and reassemble..

be sure to clean all metal debris and flush out the entire axle housing really well. Most common cause of diff failure is water getting in through the axle seals and breaking down the diff fluid, or failure to change diff fluid regularly will also cause premature failure.

I just blew out my ring an pinion as well. During the tear down process I found my passenger hub assembly outer bearing seal had failed, allowing water to get through the bearing assembly. The bearing failed causing excess heat at the outer axle seal allowing water to get into my axle housing. I neglected to change fluid as i should when going off-road and through mud an water crossing so it finally bit the dust on me during a hill climb at 2am on the trail. Wound up using front wheel drive to get me back as close to camp as i could an Superman gave me some extra ass the next day an helped me get the truck back up to camp an get loaded up.

to back up ECGS I ordered all my components last Thursday both differentials will be ready by wed. but a good friends gonna do me a favor an drive them down from Raleigh to me Friday when he gets out of class at NC State. I welded up some parts on his truck one weekend when he broke out at uhwarrie national forest so he's returning the favor.

also I'm at 145,000 miles, but i do drive my truck pretty hard off-road (superman would say I drive crazy) anywho it seems to be something that can easily go out if the axle isn't maintenance propperly
 
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I blew mine out from powerbraking and off-roading. (Water must of gone through the seals) Shredded about 3 teeth completely and chipped like 2. When it occurred the Rear end would just clunk really loud everytime the pinion turned to it. Costed me around 1500 for a new diff from Toyota then installed it myself.
 
aha2988 said:
x3 on www.eastcostgearsupply.com they will build a stock diff for you for $525 + shipping. they ship there's out with a call tag so you can ship yours back. they have a 300 dollar core charge but allow you 3 weeks to return your core before they charge you for the core charge. the offer a 5 year warranty on all there work and the third member will come to you built ready to bolt in all you have to do is remove your axle hubs disconnect your ABS sensors and sensor wires, disconnect your emergency brake cable and slide your axle/hub assemblies out. then unbolt the drive shaft from the pinion yoke flange, then unbolt the third member carrier assembly ship out the old one and bolt in the new diff from ECGS and reassemble..

be sure to clean all metal debris and flush out the entire axle housing really well. Most common cause of diff failure is water getting in through the axle seals and breaking down the diff fluid, or failure to change diff fluid regularly will also cause premature failure.

I just blew out my ring an pinion as well. During the tear down process I found my passenger hub assembly outer bearing seal had failed, allowing water to get through the bearing assembly. The bearing failed causing excess heat at the outer axle seal allowing water to get into my axle housing. I neglected to change fluid as i should when going off-road and through mud an water crossing so it finally bit the dust on me during a hill climb at 2am on the trail. Wound up using front wheel drive to get me back as close to camp as i could an Superman gave me some extra ass the next day an helped me get the truck back up to camp an get loaded up.

to back up ECGS I ordered all my components last Thursday both differentials will be ready by wed. but a good friends gonna do me a favor an drive them down from Raleigh to me Friday when he gets out of class at NC State. I welded up some parts on his truck one weekend when he broke out at uhwarrie national forest so he's returning the favor.

also I'm at 145,000 miles, but i do drive my truck pretty hard off-road (superman would say I drive crazy) anywho it seems to be something that can easily go out if the axle isn't maintenance propperly
Click to expand...







I just talked to ECGS. I'm going to get a new 3rd shipped tomorrow.


I wanna just say thanks to everyone. You guys saved me from a big mistake.

I went from a $2100 fix with a 30 day warranty to a $640 one with a 5 year warranty.

Seriously, thank you for taking the time to help me out.




On a side note... How should I have it geared? Stock? I have a 2.5" Spacer Lift with 275-70-17 tires. Also some performance mods (CAI and exhaust).
 
they don't offer any gearing over stock other than 4:56 and up which you would want to be on 33" tires minimum to require that gearing. To add, if you regear the rear axle you have to match it with the front axle. If you plan to go off-road often or you have a lot of grade's in your area to climb regularly I could suggest go ahead and regear the front and rear diff's but your looking at more money invested for sure, also you would want to add a locker as once you off-road regularly your going to see where having one will come in handy.

If your not interested in off-roading or running larger tires there's no reason to regear or add lockers keep it cheap an simple and get your runner back on the road :hatsoff:
 
aha2988 said:
they don't offer any gearing over stock other than 4:56 and up which you would want to be on 33" tires minimum to require that gearing. To add, if you regear the rear axle you have to match it with the front axle. If you plan to go off-road often or you have a lot of grade's in your area to climb regularly I could suggest go ahead and regear the front and rear diff's but your looking at more money invested for sure, also you would want to add a locker as once you off-road regularly your going to see where having one will come in handy.

If your not interested in off-roading or running larger tires there's no reason to regear or add lockers keep it cheap an simple and get your runner back on the road :hatsoff:
Click to expand...

thats an opinion, not fact.
Im running stock gears on 33s and fully loaded with recovery gear and tools, and it fine.

I also have had the rear gears blow out, check out the FJCruisers forums, they often have stock gears, and 3rd members for sale.
I also have a the stock 3rd member sitting in my garage, but the gears are bad.
Either way, follow the advise here and do this yourself and save lots of cash lol (if you can)
 
04rnr said:
thats an opinion, not fact.
Im running stock gears on 33s and fully loaded with recovery gear and tools, and it fine.

I also have had the rear gears blow out, check out the FJCruisers forums, they often have stock gears, and 3rd members for sale.
I also have a the stock 3rd member sitting in my garage, but the gears are bad.
Either way, follow the advise here and do this yourself and save lots of cash lol (if you can)
Click to expand...

I think he was saying you wouldn't want that short of a ration (4.56) turning small stock tires. Plus he said "want" not "need". Nothing wrong with turning bigger tires on stock gears besides throwing your speedo cal off and losing a little torque.
 
superman3043 said:
I think he was saying you wouldn't want that short of a ration (4.56) turning small stock tires. Plus he said "want" not "need". Nothing wrong with turning bigger tires on stock gears besides throwing your speedo cal off and losing a little torque.
Click to expand...


After talking to Curtis and Steven at ECGS. We decided to go with a 4.11 gear ratio.

It is 2WD, so no regearing the front? My speedometer was a little off from the new tires so I think a modest change from 3.73 to 4.11 will work ok. However, after speaking with them, they would also agree that any more; 4.56 or whatever, would be too much for my size tires.

I've come to realize that my shop has been trying to screw me through this whole experience. After telling them I ordered a fully assembled 3rd member, they tried to tell me that the "housing" was warped on the axle and I needed to replace this as well. I don't really off-road and Carfax says I've never been in a collision. So total BS.

Then when I said I only wanted the new 3rd installed, they quoted me $425. I called 3 other places and found a guy who said it would take 1-2 hours and would do it for $120.

So:
New 3rd - $640
Scumbag Shop Towing and Inspection -$300
Good Shop Tow and Install - $175
Total = $1215

Having a fully rebuilt Rear Diff with Nitro parts and 4.11 gears, plus 5 year warranty and lifetime install guarantee = Priceless


Having known what I know now... for those of you drivetrain noobs (and I am definitely one) ...

You could do this:
Used or Salvage 3rd (rear differential) - ~$250
Towing + Install - ~$180
GET YOUR T4R Back on the Road = under $500

(Keep in mind salvage parts are always a little riskier than new or rebuilt)
 
Glad we could help out and that ECGS was able to get you sorted out man.

I'm sure you'll be happy. Yeah, calling out scumbag shops and dealers is always priceless :)
 
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