Preventing coolant leaks at the top radiator hose...

ShooterMcGavin

ShooterMcGavin

New member
I am replacing my timing belt and water pump, so I have the radiator disconnected and removed. The top fitting of the radiator looks kinda crappy. I should have taken a photo before I started scraping junk off. It started out looking like coolant build-up on the fitting. Once I started scraping, it began looking more like the actual plastic deteriorating. Take a look at the photos. I took a razor blade to it and removed all flaky and soft material, the light brown substance, from the fitting. I then tried to make a more even/uniform surface by using a file on it. I have also used sandpaper to smooth it.

Am I at the point where I should just replace the radiator? I have read of people having leaks here after putting it back together. Is that what I am facing (leaks), or will it depend on how well I finish and smooth the fitting?







*Edit: The bottom fitting on the radiator looks pretty much perfect. I have no concerns there. I have also cleaned up a huge amount of coolant deposits on the lower engine block fitting (sandpaper and then fine steel wool).

Here is a picture showing some of the pitting and corrosion on that piece after I've done my cleaning, but I'm not too concerned with it.
 
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use a new hose and you should be fine. if you get a little leakage put some rvt around the inside of the hose and put it on don't fill for 5 or 6 hours then fill and go. but I would be surprised if you had a problem.
 
Rockdawg84 said:
use a new hose and you should be fine. if you get a little leakage put some rvt around the inside of the hose and put it on don't fill for 5 or 6 hours then fill and go. but I would be surprised if you had a problem.
Click to expand...

Great advice. I will be using new hoses. That was another idea of mine, to use FIPG. I'll do that and try to save that radiator.
 
Clamps?

Depending on what the clamps look like, you might want to get new ones too. Luck. :cowboy:
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
I am replacing my timing belt and water pump, so I have the radiator disconnected and removed. The top fitting of the radiator looks kinda crappy. I should have taken a photo before I started scraping junk off. It started out looking like coolant build-up on the fitting. Once I started scraping, it began looking more like the actual plastic deteriorating. Take a look at the photos. I took a razor blade to it and removed all flaky and soft material, the light brown substance, from the fitting. I then tried to make a more even/uniform surface by using a file on it. I have also used sandpaper to smooth it.

Am I at the point where I should just replace the radiator? I have read of people having leaks here after putting it back together. Is that what I am facing (leaks), or will it depend on how well I finish and smooth the fitting?







*Edit: The bottom fitting on the radiator looks pretty much perfect. I have no concerns there. I have also cleaned up a huge amount of coolant deposits on the lower engine block fitting (sandpaper and then fine steel wool).

Here is a picture showing some of the pitting and corrosion on that piece after I've done my cleaning, but I'm not too concerned with it.
Click to expand...

I got my first 3rd gen 4runner, I guess I'm old school. My vehicles have always had copper/brass radiators. I was hoping to find an all aluminium radiator, but it appears even those are not available for 3rd gens. Not sure I am adapting well to plastic/aluminium radiators, especially after seeing that hose fitting on yours. Yuck.
 
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ShooterMcGavin said:
I am replacing my timing belt and water pump, so I have the radiator disconnected and removed. The top fitting of the radiator looks kinda crappy. I should have taken a photo before I started scraping junk off. It started out looking like coolant build-up on the fitting. Once I started scraping, it began looking more like the actual plastic deteriorating. Take a look at the photos. I took a razor blade to it and removed all flaky and soft material, the light brown substance, from the fitting. I then tried to make a more even/uniform surface by using a file on it. I have also used sandpaper to smooth it.

Am I at the point where I should just replace the radiator? I have read of people having leaks here after putting it back together. Is that what I am facing (leaks), or will it depend on how well I finish and smooth the fitting?



*Edit: The bottom fitting on the radiator looks pretty much perfect. I have no concerns there. I have also cleaned up a huge amount of coolant deposits on the lower engine block fitting (sandpaper and then fine steel wool).

Here is a picture showing some of the pitting and corrosion on that piece after I've done my cleaning, but I'm not too concerned with it.
Click to expand...

Not sure what type of clamp you are using but user Stick Figure mentioned in this post that unless you are using the factory or an aftermarket "constant tension clamp" you may run into some issues i.e., leaks since the worm gear clamps don't account for the thermal expansion/contraction of the hose at operating temp and after engine shutdown.

Something to consider is all.
 
tbryanh said:
I got my first 3rd gen 4runner, I guess I'm old school. My vehicles have always had copper/brass radiators. I was hoping to find an all aluminium radiator, but it appears even those are not available for 3rd gens. Not sure I am adapting well to plastic/aluminium radiators, especially after seeing that hose fitting on yours. Yuck.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure his truck has 300k miles on it. I never had any old school copper radiators last that long. Besides, a replacement radiator is about $100, and pretty easy to replace. That corrosion is likely as bad as it is because the previous radiator hose was letting coolant seep by the clamp. That's why the bottom still looks basically perfect.
 
Replace the hoses. My old hoses never seemed to seal very well at the edges even with spring clamps, especially if they weren't positioned exactly where they were before.
 
slofizz said:
Why spring clamp?
Click to expand...

Also called "constant tension clamps" because they are able to expand and shrink with the temperature differential of the coolant line while keeping a constant amount of tension.

While I think the worm gear clamps will suffice, the constant tension clamps are superior for low pressure lines like this as it will cause less stress to the hose after a while.

Splitting hairs — but I think it's worth doing if you can get some. Obviously don't use them on high pressure lines.

I've tried finding them at auto parts stores and true value hardware, but no luck. Easy to find online though.
 
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