Pulling Oil pan?

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Are you really sure you want/need to pull the oil pan? Probably the most inaccessible part on the engine. Either the engine comes out or the front diff comes off, no other option. I've seen a few hackjob seals done on the outside of the pan that actually help if it's a leak issue. Did you try re-torquing the bolts already?
 
The motors seized and I need to pull the bottom end apart to get it out.
I don't have room to pull the motor and transmission at the same time.
 
I had to drop my diff and clean the years worth of sludge out of my oil pan and replace the connecting rod bearings.
Its not terrible...their are 2 or 3 fasteners that a complete PITA. Gearwrenches and long extensions come in real handy.
This is the write up I followed.

pulling the front diff - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Might not even be worth it unless you're wanting to do the lower end which even then the access to the crankshaft is pretty limited..keep us posted and good luck!
 
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I had to drop my diff and clean the years worth of sludge out of my oil pan and replace the connecting rod bearings.
Its not terrible...their are 2 or 3 fasteners that a complete PITA. Gearwrenches and long extensions come in real handy.
This is the write up I followed.

pulling the front diff - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Might not even be worth it unless you're wanting to do the lower end which even then the access to the crankshaft is pretty limited..keep us posted and good luck!

Thanks
I read over this and Timmys video on it. Kinda why I was hoping for a way around it.
 
It's super easy to drop the diff if you don't try to take shortcuts and have an extra set of hands. Take the time, unbolt both spindles at the LBJ, pull the axles all the way out, drain the gear oil and drop it right out. It hangs up on the stud that goes through the front suspension crossmember, but if someone is pushing up and forward on it, it'll eventually plop right out, goijg in is rough because of the sheer weight of it, but in reality it drops back in easier than coming out.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks
I read over this and Timmys video on it. Kinda why I was hoping for a way around it.

Yeah no problem. Sad part is their really isn't. It is the one thing I wish they had made easier to access. The most difficult fasteners I remember is one thats located between the cross member and bellhousing, and one down kinda along the diff breather hose that I had to use like 5ft of extensions to get to it and my dad had to guide it to the it.
Also need a pretty good size allen wrench/socket.
What are the symptoms of whats going on? Somehow mine ran with 0lbs of oil pressure for god knows how long until I sorted it out. (PO started to neglect it big time).
 
Thanks
I read over this and Timmys video on it. Kinda why I was hoping for a way around it.

Read the comment I pinned for the video. There's a much easier way to get the diff out. It's basically a matter of disconnecting the driver side motor mount, jacking up under the oil pan to raise the engine a couple inches, placing some type of spacer in between the motor mount and frame to keep the height you just gained with the jack and then getting the jack out of the way.

The other thing that makes it easier is to disconnect the metal vacuum and breather pipes on top of the diff. If you don't, the lines will hook the power steering lines and stop you from getting the diff out.

If you do those two things, the diff will literally fall out for you and plop right back in no problem.
 

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