RMalilay707/
New member
Starting to look into lift kits, any advice? Thinking of a 3" lift.
quality lift kits for 3rd gen?
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Mgyver1
Member
There's a bunch of options out there, we just need to know what your budget is and your desire (a lift to make your truck look cooler, a suspension upgrade to perform better offroad, etc). For a true quality suspension system that will perform fantastic off road you could easily spend $4000+ on suspension parts, and if you want hydraulic bump stops then add $1,000 for the front and probably the same for the rear too. You could also spend $10,000 setiing your truck up for long travel. There are also spacer kits to lift your truck for under $100. And then there's everything in between, so it really depends what you plan on doing and what you want. Just remember you get what you pay for, so if you think that $100 spacer lift it going to ride like the truck with $4k in their suspension then you'll be sorely disappointed.
RMalilay707/
New member
Thanks guys, I'm lookin to spend around 2,000. Purpose is off road trails and room for bigger tires. So far y'all gave me enough info to start lookin haha....a lot of options.
jreask
Member
Sonoran Steel and Toytec make some good lifts for the 1000-1400 range. For $2000 plus Icon makes some very nice stuff.
I have these sitting in my house awaiting install
You lucky dog. I am SOOO jealous. I've got a Daystar spacer lift front and rear. It's all I could afford with the new shocks all the way around. I can only dream of the set up you are going to install.
Climber
New member
Sonoran Steel and Toytec make some good lifts for the 1000-1400 range. For $2000 plus Icon makes some very nice stuff.
I have these sitting in my house awaiting install
Man after all you spent had to settle for the fiesta...
Im just playing, your gonna have a sweet setup. Ive been looking at that same one. If you ever go wheeling on the east side shoot me a pm and i could meet up.
RMalilay707/
New member
AlecTheGinger
New member
Did you get anything else with this kit I’m looking at buying it for my 3gen but I can’t make a decision I don’t want to buy the wrong lift and regret it
lockedlex
Member
OP, I think you have to first ask yourself what type of off-roading will you be doing, then look at a lift kit.
... and many more. The issue here is one kit doesn't really fit for the rest. Someone going off-roading in PA forests wouldn't need the same kit as someone camping in the desert in the Southwest, or someone going rock crawling in UT, etc.
I'm in the SouthWest and have the Sonoran Steel 1.2 and can't speak highly enough about it. I love how EVERYTHING was included... EVERYTHING was calibrated/dialed in and it's been very reliable. I added to that an AirLift coil-in rear bladder so I can control firmness (making highway driving safer, but also providing good travel when off roading).
- Rock crawling, extreme off-roading with 35"
- 99% on street driving with 1% dirt trails/backroads
- Desert
- Forest/muddy ruts/woods-trees
... and many more. The issue here is one kit doesn't really fit for the rest. Someone going off-roading in PA forests wouldn't need the same kit as someone camping in the desert in the Southwest, or someone going rock crawling in UT, etc.
I'm in the SouthWest and have the Sonoran Steel 1.2 and can't speak highly enough about it. I love how EVERYTHING was included... EVERYTHING was calibrated/dialed in and it's been very reliable. I added to that an AirLift coil-in rear bladder so I can control firmness (making highway driving safer, but also providing good travel when off roading).
Fiffa
Member
I've been researching an obsessive amount lately for a more overland style of capability (with the occasional trail day in mind) and this is what I've been coming to the conclusion with it all:
1. Front lift amount: If overall longevity and reliability are a concern, then keep the front lift at around 2". You're not really adding any travel to your suspension beyond that, so all you're really doing is limiting your compression stroke to compensate. Without doing a long-travel setup, you're also going to be putting more strain on the rest of the front end as a result of your lift
2. Diff drop: I'm having a hard time making up my mind about this based on everyone's input on a few forums. Yes, you ease the CV angles caused by doing a lift, thus minimizing the potential for the inner boots to wear/split prematurely, but you also add an unnecessary angle to the front driveshaft (again, front-end strain). Unlike the rear shaft, it's a single-cardan joint, which prefers to operate as close to 0° as possible. Sure, it's built tough and should be able to handle the angle added from the drop (I'm guessing it's a few degrees, so nothing too crazy), but if you're keeping the lift relatively "mild" then a simple inner boot stretch should be enough, right? Unless you have the right aftermarket skid plates, you'll also need to modify it to clear the now lower front diff mounts.
3. Front tire clearance: If you want to run 33's or taller, the rear of the front wheel wells will need to be modified. a 3" lift will clear the tires for in-town driving, but you'll most likely be rubbing back there when you start flexing on the trails. Depending on how tall you plan to go on the back of the truck then you'll most likely need to do some minor trimming there, as well. Upper control arms are a great way to have some more caster to play with, or to get your caster even back to stock specs, so be thinking about this in relation to clearance.
4. Rear lift: This is much more forgiving than the front, so the biggest question you'll need to ask yourself is "do I want a raked look or not?" (i.e. height compared to the front). The next thing that should be addressed is how much full-time and "loaded" weight will you be running? You have more spring and shock options when piecing together a rear suspension, so although you should be thinking about spring rates for the front, too, the back will be a more dynamic consideration because of the cargo aspect. Do be mindful that when you start going over 1" of lift in the back that you would be doing yourself a favor by doing a panhard correction, too. That one mod can make a big difference in how your 4Runner acts over even minor bumps.
The biggest thing of all is to utilize the search function on this forum! There's nearly two decades of information for this generation alone on here. So, although it can be a little tedious at times, you can learn a lot without having to get flamed for not doing your due-diligence first.
1. Front lift amount: If overall longevity and reliability are a concern, then keep the front lift at around 2". You're not really adding any travel to your suspension beyond that, so all you're really doing is limiting your compression stroke to compensate. Without doing a long-travel setup, you're also going to be putting more strain on the rest of the front end as a result of your lift
2. Diff drop: I'm having a hard time making up my mind about this based on everyone's input on a few forums. Yes, you ease the CV angles caused by doing a lift, thus minimizing the potential for the inner boots to wear/split prematurely, but you also add an unnecessary angle to the front driveshaft (again, front-end strain). Unlike the rear shaft, it's a single-cardan joint, which prefers to operate as close to 0° as possible. Sure, it's built tough and should be able to handle the angle added from the drop (I'm guessing it's a few degrees, so nothing too crazy), but if you're keeping the lift relatively "mild" then a simple inner boot stretch should be enough, right? Unless you have the right aftermarket skid plates, you'll also need to modify it to clear the now lower front diff mounts.
3. Front tire clearance: If you want to run 33's or taller, the rear of the front wheel wells will need to be modified. a 3" lift will clear the tires for in-town driving, but you'll most likely be rubbing back there when you start flexing on the trails. Depending on how tall you plan to go on the back of the truck then you'll most likely need to do some minor trimming there, as well. Upper control arms are a great way to have some more caster to play with, or to get your caster even back to stock specs, so be thinking about this in relation to clearance.
4. Rear lift: This is much more forgiving than the front, so the biggest question you'll need to ask yourself is "do I want a raked look or not?" (i.e. height compared to the front). The next thing that should be addressed is how much full-time and "loaded" weight will you be running? You have more spring and shock options when piecing together a rear suspension, so although you should be thinking about spring rates for the front, too, the back will be a more dynamic consideration because of the cargo aspect. Do be mindful that when you start going over 1" of lift in the back that you would be doing yourself a favor by doing a panhard correction, too. That one mod can make a big difference in how your 4Runner acts over even minor bumps.
The biggest thing of all is to utilize the search function on this forum! There's nearly two decades of information for this generation alone on here. So, although it can be a little tedious at times, you can learn a lot without having to get flamed for not doing your due-diligence first.
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cl4Rk
Member
FWIW, I’m running 265/75/r16 and going with Bilstein 5100s all around with OME 880s in front and OME 906s in back. This should result in about a 1.5” lift in front and about 2” in back (once settled).
I’m sticking with a ~2” lift so I can avoid (or minimize) the other issues that may arise or additional mods that may be needed that @Fiffa mentioned (diff drop, too much cv wear, etc). (I’ll still do a pan hard correction.)
But, I’m maybe 95% pavement, I’m not running steel bumpers, sliders, or full skids. I often have a mountain bike on the trailer hitch, and some light camping stuff or tools in the back, but I’m not rock crawling or anything like that. More of a camping/mountain bike trip-ready DD.
I’m sticking with a ~2” lift so I can avoid (or minimize) the other issues that may arise or additional mods that may be needed that @Fiffa mentioned (diff drop, too much cv wear, etc). (I’ll still do a pan hard correction.)
But, I’m maybe 95% pavement, I’m not running steel bumpers, sliders, or full skids. I often have a mountain bike on the trailer hitch, and some light camping stuff or tools in the back, but I’m not rock crawling or anything like that. More of a camping/mountain bike trip-ready DD.
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bmason8159
New member
I currently have a 99 limited with a 3 in rough country lift. Not sure what shocks it’s originally had but I replaced the rear with Bilstien 5100s. I have 285/75 16. It rides terrible, I hate it. Even after replacing the rear shocks. This is my second 4 runner. My first 4Runner had oem 99 talls and rode amazing. It had 410 gears and had way more power better gas mileage and took it places I would be afraid of taking my current 4Runner with the 285s and 430 gears because the the front end can’t handle the 285s. In my experience it’s expensive to get a lifted truck with oem style ride. I want to go back to stock. these rigs stock are amazing. Apologies for the long post
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DJohnson615
New member
Does anyone have a 4” suspension lift specifically for the rear because I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t really find anything I have a 1998 4Runner 4x4 I’ve looked at the thread that describes what lifts they are and how tall they are but I couldn’t really find anything that fit my needs so if someone could reply to this with specific things I should get to achieve 4 inches in the rear that would be greatly appreciated
spartacus
Senior Member
lc80 springs and shocks will get you 4 inches in the rear.
Fiffa
Member
You may have some unaccounted for drivetrain binding. I felt the same until I greased the driveshafts and replaced all of the bushings front and back.seemed odd to me because I hadn't felt anything that would make me suspect a problem, but she magically got a bit of pep in her step after that single set of changes. I, too, am running 285's with 4.30's.
Fiffa
Member
Check these:
OME 861's - 220lbs - 480/490mm FH
DOBINSON 210V - 160-239lbs - 475/485mm FH
DOBINSON 675V - 157-230lbs - 470mm FH
TOYTEC Superflex - 240lbs - 495mm FH
LC 7.5 Wrap - 160lbs - 473mm FH
LC 8 Wrap - 160lbs - 483mm FH
Found here:
**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**
There really isn't much specifically for the 3rd gen that goes beyond 3", but we've lucked out by having other gens and models springs fit.
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cl4Rk
Member
I wonder how much of a difference a smaller/lighter tire with that same lift would make?
Agreed!
DJohnson615
New member
How high do you think I could get it in the rear because I was thinking about getting a 6” Tacoma lift for the front, but I’m trying to make it sit level and it nose dives a hair so maybe like 5 in the back but a little squat doesn’t hurt me so I might just go with 4” in the rear
