Quality of napa lbj's

If a factory OEM LBJ fails, Toyota gets to fix more cars and makes more money. If Napa sells you a LBJ and it fails, they need to give you a new one and lose money. So although OEM is a quality part, it is not in the best interest for NAPA to give you a crap part with a lifetime warranty and have you come back for replacements every 6 months for the rest of your car's life.
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True that parts with a lifetime warranty are usually better quality, but I dont think it works that way. OEMs are under much more liability to supply quality parts, especially when safety is concerned.

Many aftermarket parts advertise a lifetime warranty, but that is usually more of a marketing term to try to move more product. It's a risk/reward number that some bean counter calculated on an entire product line that might not be representative of actual quality. For example, a high volume, high distribution manufacture of a lesser quality part can more likely make a lifetime warranty marketing claim versus that of a higher quality, but low volume part.

Also, by the time the part fails, the aftermarket manufacturer relies the fact that the vehicle has probably changed hands, or the customer has lost the original receipt.
 
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but with napa's MEET or EXCEED claim it makes spending more at the dlr unjustifiable.

This phrase is 100% marketing and doesn't mean anything at all. To me, the only guaranteed good LBJ is the Toyota one. The napa one is probably fine as well, but you have to find out who actually made it to determine if it's good.
 
I just ordered Raybestos Professional LBJs to replace my stockers with 275K (I'd say it's a little passed due). I started getting a death squeak when slowing down and tons of play in my steering so I've parked my truck for the time being. I will report back to this thread with pics and details of the quality.
 
Regarding the pricing for the NAPA premium LBJ's: I am seeing the same $91.99 price for right side replacement LBJ that a previous poster had indicated. Thought these were supposed to save money over the OEM's?

And regarding the discussion here about returning the NAPA part every so often for replacement - I copied this warranty info our of their PDF for the LBJ specifically. Seems if they follow their rules to the letter, you may have a harder time doing this: (Just saying.....)

What the warranty covers:
NAPA Chassis warrants all NAPA Chassis products
to be free from defects in materials
and workmanship during the period of service life recomme
nded by the vehicle or equipment manufacturer. This
warranty is not transferable. New car and equipment warranties remain in effect when NAPA Chassis products are
used. The NAPA Chassis warranty does not cover any loss due to misuse, alteration, accident, abuse, neglect,
normal wear, improper applic
ation or installation of the products.
This warranty only applies to NAPA Chassis
products installed on passenger cars, vans, and light trucks.
It does not apply to products installed on vehicles or
equipment used for the following: towing, racing, public se
rvice, security, government, off-highway recreational, off-
highway competition, fleet or commercial purposes, or if
used in any aircraft or aviation application. The warranty
does not cover any loss or liability for incidental or cons
equential damages that may be
caused by a breach of this
written warranty. NAPA CHASSIS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM
S ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION
, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY AND OF FITNESS
FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. The foregoing states NAPA C
hassis’ entire and exclusive liability and the buyer’s
exclusive and sole remedy for any damages or claim made
in connection with the sale of NAPA Chassis product. No
other warranty, express or implied, shall exist.
If the NAPA Chassis product is found by NAPA Chassis to be
defective in material or workmanship during the period
of service life recommended by the vehicle or equipme
nt manufacturer, NAPA Chassis will replace the defective
product with another
NAPA Chassis produc
t at its option.
Replacement guidelines:
In order to obtain vehicle or equipment repl
acement under this warranty, the customer
must, within 30 days after discovery of defect or failure
, submit a claim to a NAPA AUTO PARTS Store. The
customer must also allow the NAPA Chassis Warranty
and Technical Service Department to examine the NAPA
Chassis product and, if required, the vehicle or equipmen
t, to determine the extent of damage and whether it was
caused by a defective NAPA Chassis product covered by this
warranty. Products must be returned – in their original,
unmodified condition – to the place of
purchase for warranty consideration.
NAPA Chassis will replace any NAPA Chassis product found
not to conform to this warranty provided that the
customer follows this warranty filing procedure:
1.
The NAPA AUTO PARTS Store must complete the NAPA Alleged Defective Merchandise Tag. Be very
specific about the incident and the
reason for filing the claim. The more information provided, the easier it
will be to expedite and process the claim.
2.
Submit all pertinent paperwork, including copies of the
original purchase receipt, repair orders, pictures (if
applicable) and all paperwork relating to the incident.
3.
For questions, call (815) 363-9000 ext. 3262.
NAPA Chassis reserves the right, at its sole discretion,
to provide a monetary refund instead of a replacement.
NAPA Chassis also retains full discretion in determining
whether any returned NAPA Chassis product satisfies the
condition of the warranty.
 
Just checking to see if Napa warranty has worked as we hope or if the letter of lawyer is king? I'm way overdue. Toyota today quoted $898.68 for both lbjs, ubjs, inner and outer tie rods,for both sides, just parts. It only makes sense to do full replacement as I know an accident/ accidents have occurred from p.o. The greasable joints seem the most logical. A guy in Tucson local parts store quoted $597 for moog lbjs, ubjs, ites, otes. Does anyone offer a kit, besides those weird eBay kits for $100. That seems unsafe low price for suspension parts. How have we not come to some collective consensus on this issue or are these rigs to old to care about anymore? Thanks everyone
 
Just checking to see if Napa warranty has worked as we hope or if the letter of lawyer is king? I'm way overdue. Toyota today quoted $898.68 for both lbjs, ubjs, inner and outer tie rods,for both sides, just parts. It only makes sense to do full replacement as I know an accident/ accidents have occurred from p.o. The greasable joints seem the most logical. A guy in Tucson local parts store quoted $597 for moog lbjs, ubjs, ites, otes. Does anyone offer a kit, besides those weird eBay kits for $100. That seems unsafe low price for suspension parts. How have we not come to some collective consensus on this issue or are these rigs to old to care about anymore? Thanks everyone


Your toyota dealer is bending you over hard at those prices... the below is for 4wd from Camelback. Similar prices can be found at other online retailers.

$88.67 for the front right oem ball joint PN 4333039585
$88.67 for the front left oem ball joint PN 4334039465

$34.39 x 2 for the upper ball joints PN 4331039016

$48.20 for the right outer tie rod end PN 4504639335
$48.20 for the left outer tie rod end PN 4504739215
(Inner tie rod ends should be OK)
Total: $342.52

OEM only for me guys. I would not trust such a critical part to any aftermarket. Toyota learned how to make these RIGHT and did their recall which punched them pretty hard monetarily. I trust the current version. I find it foolish to pay virtually the same price for an aftermarket replacement part that has even the slight possibility of being weaker. My kids and wife ride with me and the wife also drives a 3rd gen - safety first.
 
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Just checking to see if Napa warranty has worked as we hope or if the letter of lawyer is king? I'm way overdue. Toyota today quoted $898.68 for both lbjs, ubjs, inner and outer tie rods,for both sides, just parts. It only makes sense to do full replacement as I know an accident/ accidents have occurred from p.o. The greasable joints seem the most logical. A guy in Tucson local parts store quoted $597 for moog lbjs, ubjs, ites, otes. Does anyone offer a kit, besides those weird eBay kits for $100. That seems unsafe low price for suspension parts. How have we not come to some collective consensus on this issue or are these rigs to old to care about anymore? Thanks everyone

Go and buy the napa ones and be replacing them in about 20k miles. That will end up costing you way more. And where in the world did you get pricing that high for the OEM parts!
 

Your toyota dealer is bending you over hard at those prices... the below is for 4wd from Camelback. Similar prices can be found at other online retailers.

$88.67 for the front right oem ball joint PN 4333039585
$88.67 for the front left oem ball joint PN 4334039465

$34.39 x 2 for the upper ball joints PN 4331039016

$48.20 for the right outer tie rod end PN 4504639335
$48.20 for the left outer tie rod end PN 4504739215
(Inner tie rod ends should be OK)
Total: $342.52

OEM only for me guys. I would not trust such a critical part to any aftermarket. Toyota learned how to make these RIGHT and did their recall which punched them pretty hard monetarily. I trust the current version. I find it foolish to pay virtually the same price for an aftermarket replacement part that has even the slight possibility of being weaker. My kids and wife ride with me and the wife also drives a 3rd gen - safety first.

agree 100% with above. If my stockers lasted 150k and going aftermarket might save me a few bucks....not worth it. Most warranties are for manufacture defect....not how long they last
the item could crap out in 1000 miles.....but not due to a manufacture defect...but poor quality
they can build it right with crap....does not matter....manufacture defect means put together wrong
all the auto part stores are counting on the short time the average American own a car...or you loose the paperwork and receipt
 

Your toyota dealer is bending you over hard at those prices... the below is for 4wd from Camelback. Similar prices can be found at other online retailers.

$88.67 for the front right oem ball joint PN 4333039585
$88.67 for the front left oem ball joint PN 4334039465

$34.39 x 2 for the upper ball joints PN 4331039016

$48.20 for the right outer tie rod end PN 4504639335
$48.20 for the left outer tie rod end PN 4504739215
(Inner tie rod ends should be OK)
Total: $342.52

OEM only for me guys. I would not trust such a critical part to any aftermarket. Toyota learned how to make these RIGHT and did their recall which punched them pretty hard monetarily. I trust the current version. I find it foolish to pay virtually the same price for an aftermarket replacement part that has even the slight possibility of being weaker. My kids and wife ride with me and the wife also drives a 3rd gen - safety first.

agree 100% with above. If my stockers lasted 150k and going aftermarket might save me a few bucks....not worth it. Most warranties are for manufacture defect....not how long they last
the item could crap out in 1000 miles.....but not due to a manufacture defect...but poor quality materials... that's not a defect
they can build it right with crap....does not matter....manufacture defect means put together wrong or knowingly using crap parts...try to prove that one in court.
all the auto part stores are counting on the short time the average American own a car...or you loose the paperwork and receipt
so sure putting on a cheap alternator ( or other non life supporting parts) with your cheap labor is ok in some cases...I will do it...but a major suspension part...nope
Being dead on the side of the road due to an alternator is easy...being "dead" on the side of the road cause you blew a ball joint and ran into a guard rail at 60mph..or head on to an 18 wheeler cause you could not control your direction...no thanks
 
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I bought my 98 Limited with 260K miles on the clock with the original LBJs on them. Needless to say I replaced them with OEM Toyota. Come to think of it, every suspension component front and rear were original.
 
Ok, cool oem. Got it. Anyone know of a kit that includes all the suspension pieces needed. The other near 20year old stuff must be wearing too. Greasable holds no weight by anyone here?
 
The kit can be oem, I just think if purchasing everything together one should get a discount. I've seen a progressive commercial. Any way to install a zerk on oem lbj?
 
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not meaning to high jack this thread. i am planning on doing this on my rig as well. i've spent some time researching but have 1 question. can someone expound on this? "The inner tie rods don't fail normally. "
i was planning on doing both inner and outer. but if is is not necessary i wouldn't mind saving a few$$

btw i have a 1997 with 230k. currently all the components appear to be good this is more for me and my piece of mind
 
For what it costs I think the inner tie rods are worth doing then it's done. If you're planning on a new rack as suggested I think they come with.

Are the parts you're getting returnable? If so you can get the inners and then decide when it's apart. My opinion is that if the inner tie rods won't support their own weight they're on the way out.
 
not sure. i've been pricing them for the past 2 weeks. found some good prices but after factoring in shipping the local dealer is on pretty much the same level.
its not my daily driver so i can have it apart for a few days or a week. i think i'll take a look at them when i get it apart.
thanks for the advice!
 

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