Rear Axle Not Sliding In All The Way?

BoomerBob

New member
Very strange. After replacing the bearing on the passenger side of the 01 2wd the axle won't slide in the last 1/4". The bearing is seated far enough in the bearing case. It feels like it's hitting something in the differential. Broken tooth? I've looked at the schematic of the diff but I don't see how the axle could be impeded and since I haven't had one apart; I'm unable to visualize it.

Any idea what could be happening?

The weather turned freezing cold so working on the rig outside will have to wait until tomorrow when this cold spell passes.

Note: Added diff pic but mine is not an e-locker.
 

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If that axle fit in before, there's no reason it shouldn't fit in again. You mentioned the bearing being fully seated in the bearing case but I'd bet money it's not fully seated. Put a block of wood on the ground, grab ahold of the brake backing plate with both hands with the axle end with the wheel lug nuts studs facing you and pop the axle shaft into the block of wood. You don't have to use crazy force unless you got the bearing in crooked to begin with and it's sort of wedged into the bearing case. If it doesn't seat fully with light blows against the wood block, you definitely have the bearing bound in the bearing case. Try some firmer strikes and hopefully the bearing will straighten out and fully seat.

Another thing you can do is to try to seat the bearing fully with the axle bolts. As you tighten them equally, the axle housing end will push on the outer race of the bearing and drive it until it's fully seated to where the bearing case is mated with the axle housing.

In the video below, go to play time 33:38 to see what the bearing looks like in the bearing case when it's fully seated.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/R-c2x3F8DU4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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If that axle fit in before, there's no reason it shouldn't fit in again. You mentioned the bearing being fully seated in the bearing case but I'd bet money it's not fully seated. Put a block of wood on the ground, grab ahold of the brake backing plate with both hands with the axle end with the wheel lug nuts studs facing you and pop the axle shaft into the block of wood. You don't have to use crazy force unless you got the bearing in crooked to begin with and it's sort of wedged into the bearing case. If it doesn't seat fully with light blows against the wood block, you definitely have the bearing bound in the bearing case. Try some firmer strikes and hopefully the bearing will straighten out and fully seat.

Another thing you can do is to try to seat the bearing fully with the axle bolts. As you tighten them equally, the axle housing end will push on the outer race of the bearing and drive it until it's fully seated to where the bearing case is mated with the axle housing.

In the video below, go to play time 33:38 to see what the bearing looks like in the bearing case when it's fully seated.

Thanks for the quick reply Tim. I'll try that but I should have mentioned the bearing is not a press fit in the bearing case. It moves with little pressure. I also believe someone switched bearings and sent the old one back to the ebay seller I bought this bearing from. The "new" bearing has more wobble than the old one. Sigh. New bearings are coming from a different source but I still need to resolve this issue in the meantime. I'll get out there when it warms up some to try again.

BTW; I have your video up on another tab at that exact location already! It was the first thing I looked for; a shot where I can see the bearing seated correctly. Mine looked just like yours.

I even flipped the bearing to make sure I had the orientation right with the extended inner bearing lip on the 01-02. I did. It goes toward the lug nuts (outward).

Note: When I flipped the bearing the snap ring would no longer seat. It only works one way.
When I figure this out, even if it's some bone-headed thing I did (which it probably is), I'll post it so others may avoid doing it too.

Thanks again!
 
If the snap ring is in place then the bearings are in place. How much space do you have on the polished part of the axle leading up to the outer bushing that the seal rides on? Does it look something like this?
a1c3dd0f5e47adf6092dfad6e98fb7d3.jpg


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I think I'll try putting the old bearing back in just to see how it sits then go from there. I've got time while I wait on parts anyway. Both axles are in the garage and out of the cold wind so that is something I can do today. :)
 
If the snap ring is in place then the bearings are in place. How much space do you have on the polished part of the axle leading up to the outer bushing that the seal rides on? Does it look something like this?

Yes it did. I have since taken the ABS ring and retainer off to make sure it wasn't the issue as well as flipped the bearing.

I think it must be something to do with the new bearing even though it "looked" good. I'll get pictures and post my results after I install the old bearing.

Edit: Note: The new bearing doesn't seat that deep into the bearing carrier so that must be the issue. That quarter inch is the same amount of space on back of the 4 bolt plate and axle housing.

Thanks to both of you. I'm confident this is a bearing issue. I'll definitely post what I find later when it warms up just a bit more.
 
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Well its a long shot...but if its not an OEM wheel bearing, there is no telling.

Just FYI the flange that the bearing rides against on the outboard side has a different interface between 96-00 axles than a 01-02 axle. The 96-00 have a flat bearing face on each side, and the 01-02 bearing has a flip on the inner bearing race.

But i know for a face the bearing cases are the same, but just maybe if you have a bearing meant for a 96-00 and pushed it on a 01-02 axle you might have some problems there.

But I agree with others if the snap ring is in place everything should be good. It does take a little force and maneuvering to get to get that last bit in.

You sure your axle seal is pressed in all the way?

Check the last post of this link: Rear axle differences between early and late 3rd gens?

I was rebuilding axles off a 2002 runner, for my 2000 and found this out. No one has pointed out the difference in PN its just a "known" thing to some of the veterans here.

Being new I cant tell you what a head ache it is to deal with stuff when you read information saying for 1996-2002 videos. Ive learned alot of the nuances between them for the small amount i've done on them. Its just money, but alot of damn time.
 
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I know how hard, sometimes impossible, it can be to diagnose issues without actually having your hands on the machine and being there. I help troubleshoot problems for others all the time on another forum that's motorcycle related.

Okay, I got it, and I think everyone was right even though I thought I had it the bearing case (brake drum plate) in the right place; it wasn't. It either shifted between the work bench and axle housing or I didn't have it set right to start with. As usual this was an operator error or as they say in the IT field where I briefly spent some time; an id10t error.

Correct orientation:
mini-2019-10-30-09h44m14.jpg

mini-2019-10-30-09h45m22.jpg

mini-2019-10-30-10h10m19.jpg


Incorrect Orientation:
mini-2019-10-30-09h31m58.jpg

mini-2019-10-30-09h43m09.jpg


Thank you to everyone who chimed in.

Note: For whatever reason; there is a slop to these newer style bearings that I don't care for. If they were on a pre-2001 T4R you would say they are shot. I haven't done a pre-01 yet but since I also have a 98'; that day may come. Tim can likely comment more on this.

Question: If I were only doing one side, instead of draining the differential, could I simply have the side I was working on a notch or two higher on the jackstand than the other side so the oil wouldn't drain out?
 
STI_MECE: Yes, it is an OEM bearing. I don't skimp on critical parts unless it's an emergency; then I fix it again later.

I also found I could use the bearing install/removal tools like a slide hammer to install the ABS ring and final retainer ring so I could more easily measure it as I knocked it to the correct position. Six of one, half a dozen of the other, if you want to do it that way or use a press. Both work equally well in my humble opinion.
 

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