Rear Diff/Axle Rust, etc. - Thoughts Please [PICS]

[LodeRunner]

Looking at this car in Topeka, KS:

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/JT3HN86R0X0204188

Car looks pretty clean. However, I just got some pictures of the underside and engine from the salesman. The rear diff/axle looks to have some serious rust. Thoughts on whether or not it would need replacing?

I've asked for pictures of the frame as well... I would assume it has some rust given the diff.

I'm also attaching the other pictures he sent for any thought you all might have.

As always, I appreciate this forum!

 

[LodeRunner]

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[LodeRunner]

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[Saybo]

I'm no expert but that looks like a serious amount of rust on the rear diff. I would not buy that.

 

[jgue467]

Yeah not good but what about known rust problem areas like the rear LCA connection points?

But overall I'd stay away from rust. It takes time to find a good one, usually 6 months or more for me. Its hit and miss, this is a miss most likely. :cowboy

 

[repo]

I would pass. Although mine spent 8 years in Topeka mostly outside of a garage and rarely washed, and the rear diff is pretty rusty but the frame and every is solid except for surface rust. The winter is really dry and windy so would dry it out quick after getting snow slush on it. That looks worse than just the paint flaking off.

I'm in the garage so took some pics if you want to compare.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My 96 was worse than that. I sandblasted the rear axle housing and frame and fixed a rust hole at the trans cross member and repainted it.


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[nobb]

The rust seems mostly surface, still far away from a risk of perforating through. That being said, everything is in desperate need of a good POR15 treatment. I would still pass though, wouldn't have high hopes for the rest of the chassis. Also looks like the brake lines were re-done at some point.

 

[LodeRunner]

Thanks for the reference pics, repo. Yours looks pretty much like my '97 did...

19963.4lsr5, what was the cost of sandblasting/painting?

 

[Mark_BC]

Looks bad but the bracket is still attached to the diff cover which is good. The rust on that cover plate goes way deeper than it looks so you may end up poking through.

You can get a decent sandblaster from HF for $100 and a compressor for about that. Throw in another $50 for media and protective equipment and you should be good to go. If you sandblast you don't need POR15 in those areas.

It might be OK but you are committing to a lot of rehab.

 

[Cree]

I'd keep looking personally. I would almost put money on there being a perforation in the frame somewhere if that's what the recovery looks like.

 

[kolelt]

I never understand why people take such stupid angle photos of basically nothing. “Hey send me some photos of the truck “. Takes photos of power steering pump. Anyways, that’s how my rear axle looked like when I got the elocker axle. But $80 at the sand blasting place. And some new paint. It’s as good as new. But that’s just the axle.

 

[stephenortiz147]

Try vinchain, they have photos of vehicles and basically you can get vin report for US cars for free here https://vinchain.io/report/check
I got free report with photos for your vin https://vinchain.io/report/get/66f8a9c3837823e376a0f9a8f1f39070
You should hurry if you want to get free vin report for your vin, because they will close free reports when they finish their blockchain version by the end of 2018

 

[habanero]

Can yikes be a thought?
Precious few photos and none of the requested frame pics and that nastiness?
Something doesn't smell right somehow.

Also, where are the rear head rests?

 

[theriddler]

Yeah not good but what about known rust problem areas like the rear LCA connection points?

But overall I'd stay away from rust. It takes time to find a good one, usually 6 months or more for me. Its hit and miss, this is a miss most likely. :cowboy

+1

FYI, I just fixed my rear axle housing leaking from the pumpkin area. It was weird, got a oily mist on my back window and finally found a pinhole leak in the housing. If you have to fix this, my repair has held up well. Drain the rear diff fluid, take a punch with a tapered end and punch the hole to open it up a little, then take some JB weld putty and fill in the hole. It's not runny so it won't contaminate the fluid. Let this dry then refill the fluid and look for more leaks. Once you've determined there are no more leaks, degrease the rear housing and coat with something to prevent future rust...I like POR15.

As a word of advice though, stay away from rusty vehicles. They're just a pain to work on with the broken bolts, crap getting in your face, etc. Have you checked the frame right where the control arms meet the frame on the drivers side? This is usually the first place to go from what I've seen on these 4runners.

 

[Lindenwood]

My rear pumpkin has some good flaking as well, but it is really just layers of old underbody coating dry-rotting and peeling off. Still solid underneath! I am going to use an air needle scaler to take it off.

 

[Tatonka]

I’d keep looking. My personal experience is that with that much rust on the rear diff... you’ll be fighting it in lots of other places. Bolts that break and round easily, pointless exercises with broken bolt removal kits that usually don’t work, rust flakes in your eyes, PB blaster stink and POR all over your arms (I always seem to paint myself as much as the truck) and worrying about cancer you haven’t found yet... blagh !


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[19963.4lsr5]

The 96 looked that bad. I sandblasted it.


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