rear diff with e-locker

[northernT4R]

Hi - would anyone be able to please post pictures (or a description) of the difference in appearance between a rear axle with an e-locker and one without?

The rear axle assembly on my '98 SR5 5-speed (4.10 ratio) does not have the e-locker option, yet looks identical to a locally advertised axle claiming to have the e-locker option.

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

Thanks!

 

[nevada]

Hi - would anyone be able to please post pictures (or a description) of the difference in appearance between a rear axle with an e-locker and one without?

The rear axle assembly on my '98 SR5 5-speed (4.10 ratio) does not have the e-locker option, yet looks identical to a locally advertised axle claiming to have the e-locker option.

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

Thanks!

these show the locker

oddly enough, I couldn't find a pic of a rear, but here is a front, the 3rd members are the same as your rear.

you can see that its missing that extra piece on the right side. that extra piece being the elocker actuator motor.

 

[northernT4R]

Thanks very much for the pics! Clearly, there is an obvious difference in external appearance between the non-locker an e-locker axles, that being the actuator mechanism. I guess the used one being advertised locally is being done so incorrectly.

 

[northernT4R]

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

 

[JWaldz]

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

Do you mean swapping just the 3rd (diff) with each other or swapping the entire axle out? Swapping the rear axle is merely unbolting your current one and replacing with the new one. Then, wiring up the elocker. Swapping diffs, however, takes some more effort. You'll have to do some drilling, cutting, etc.. to make the elocker 3rd fit in the non-elocked 8" housing.

 

[4x4mike]

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

Here is my loosely put together write up of my install. I used a donor housing which reduces the downtime on my DD. The retrofit requires some cutting and grinding with a tad bit of welding. I used a factory ECU because I wanted my setup to be as close to factory wiring as I could. There are some pictures of my old set up as well so you can get an idea of what locked and unlocked look like. One on of the last pages you can see the small bit of welding that is required.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?8389-4x4mike-s-e-locker-retrofit

 

[busmup808]

Is it a straightforward process to swap a non-locked rear with a locked one? What other components/parts would be required?

Yes it is straight toward. Unbolt 2 lower shocks bolts, 2 LCA bolts, 2 UCA bolts, rear brakeline, rear ebrake cable and then pull the whole axle out. Then install the elocked axle in reverse order.

Other components will be the wiring, R diff switch, and R diff ecu.

 

[northernT4R]

Do you mean swapping just the 3rd (diff) with each other or swapping the entire axle out? Swapping the rear axle is merely unbolting your current one and replacing with the new one. Then, wiring up the elocker. Swapping diffs, however, takes some more effort. You'll have to do some drilling, cutting, etc.. to make the elocker 3rd fit in the non-elocked 8" housing.

I think I'd prefer to swap the entire axle out, rather than drill/cut/modify my stock housing.

So, if I bolt on a complete axle with e-locker to replace my current one, all that I'll then have to do is some wiring and a dashboard switch to connect the e-locker? No frame mods, ECU changes, etc.? Sounds pretty straightforward!

 

[busmup808]

Read post #7. No frame mods. Your adding the R diff ECU & R diff switch.

 

[northernT4R]

Thanks for all the help! This site is awesome!

BTW, where is the R diff ECU located? Is it an expensive component?

 

[busmup808]

I actually have the switch, ecu and most of the wiring for sale. Let me know. We can come up with a package deal.

The ecu most times is located by the L kick panel.

 

[4x4mike]

I think I'd prefer to swap the entire axle out, rather than drill/cut/modify my stock housing.

So, if I bolt on a complete axle with e-locker to replace my current one, all that I'll then have to do is some wiring and a dashboard switch to connect the e-locker? No frame mods, ECU changes, etc.? Sounds pretty straightforward!

Finding a complete housing and 3rd member would be the easiest but will be costly. If the 3rd needs to be rebuilt or re-geared it gets even worse. My 3rd was from a Tacoma and had the gears i needed.

Getting a locking 3rd in a 4Runner isn't too difficult. Nor is the wiring and you have several options. I chose the factory ECU because I didn't like what the market had available to control the locker and I didn't want to build anything. The factory e-locker ECU mounts in the kick panel on the driver side. They come in different colors but I believe as long as you have the correct plugs they should operate properly. Attaching all the "out" wires to components isn't necessary but the correct plug in matters.

I'll see if I can dig up some pictures.

 

[4x4mike]

Once you get the 3rd in you can drive around and use 4wd. I did this for about a week before I got everything wired up.

From the diff you need this:

Put the non diff end into the cab and run wire to the front. I used multi strand wire and soldered all the connections. I then attached the proper plug end to the multi strand wire. This plug end went to the ECU.

ECU:

In:

The factory wiring diagram is a must for this part. I pulled the ECU from a donor Tacoma and cut plugs from it's wiring harness.

 

[northernT4R]

Thanks!

I've been looking for a complete axle with e-locker assembly for a while now, so was pretty excited when I saw one for sale locally...but am relieved that I didn't buy it before getting guidance from this site. His axle definitely does not have the e-locker.

Back to searching for an axle.....

Don't mind paying extra for one in really good shape. Rather do that then pay less for something that'll be disappointing or need repairing. Not much time for that with a wife and kids!

 

[4x4mike]

I see you have a 5 speed. I do too. Most 4Runners with the Limted package have e-lockers, they also have automatic transmissions (I've never seen a limited with a manual).

Having said that the ring and pinion gear ratio for an auto is different than that of a manual (4.30 vs. 4.10). Keep this in mind when looking for yours. I could find auto 3rd members all over the place but no so much for my manual. I did my swap enough years ago that the 3rd's that were out on the market were low mileage and didn't require a rebuild. If what you find needs to be rebuilt a gear swap would make more sense.

 

[northernT4R]

Yeah, it seems that most of the axles I've seen are in rough shape and/or high mileage. To be expected at this age I guess. Plus, the winters here (with copious road salt) typically corrode and destroy vehicles relatively rapidly, making it even harder to find older vehicles without rot and gaping holes. Hoping I can find stuff down south and have it shipped up here.

Thanks for the gear ratio advice - 4.30 vs 4.10.

The search continues....!

 

[brisamh]

Similiar question

Having said that the ring and pinion gear ratio for an auto is different than that of a manual (4.30 vs. 4.10). Keep this in mind when looking for yours. I could find auto 3rd members all over the place but no so much for my manual. I did my swap enough years ago that the 3rd's that were out on the market were low mileage and didn't require a rebuild. If what you find needs to be rebuilt a gear swap would make more sense.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread; I have a related question about my 5spd. My runner's spider gears burst in the rear diff. The PO had done a rear axle and front diff swap to go from 4.10 to 4.30 gears, and to get a locking rear diff. I'm assuming that it's now fair game for me to pull out any locking rear third member that's geared with 4.30s, doesn't matter if the donor was auto or trans as long as the gear ratio is consistent, yeah?

 

[Mark_BC]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread; I have a related question about my 5spd. My runner's spider gears burst in the rear diff. The PO had done a rear axle and front diff swap to go from 4.10 to 4.30 gears, and to get a locking rear diff. I'm assuming that it's now fair game for me to pull out any locking rear third member that's geared with 4.30s, doesn't matter if the donor was auto or trans as long as the gear ratio is consistent, yeah?

Yes. I think.

 

[Scramble]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread; I have a related question about my 5spd. My runner's spider gears burst in the rear diff. The PO had done a rear axle and front diff swap to go from 4.10 to 4.30 gears, and to get a locking rear diff. I'm assuming that it's now fair game for me to pull out any locking rear third member that's geared with 4.30s, doesn't matter if the donor was auto or trans as long as the gear ratio is consistent, yeah?

Yes.