Rear rotor removal help- 04 4runner
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NJshadow93
New member
gshadow325
New member
try three threads
nevada
Senior Member
if they are like 5/16"/ 8mm holes..then yes, they are threaded...
4RunnerFan
New member
This works every time. The size of the bolt needed may differ than the one shown in this video link.
Remove Rusted Brake Rotors ( Easy for any car or truck ) - YouTube
Remove Rusted Brake Rotors ( Easy for any car or truck ) - YouTube
absolute yota
New member
The parking brake is actually a shoe inside the rotor, you have to line the hole in the rotor up with the parking brake adjustment whick is bottom center in the 6 oclock position. Stick a flt head screwdriver in the hole and find the star wheel, rotate it until it releases. I don't remember which way you need to spin it.
They are on the 05. I'm pretty sure the bolts are 6mm course thread. The bolts I use are actually the same bolts I've used on my wifes 87 and 96 Accord and my 98 Nissan Pathfinder.
Make sure the Parking brake is OFF. Then thread the bolts into both holes. Keep torquing them down one at a time until the rotor comes off.
absolute yota
New member
You can try to pull it off al you want, but without letting off on that e brake adjustment it aint coming off even with the bolts, the holes in my rotors have no threads either, the rotor fell off after I let the e brake star wheel adjustment off.
I never touched the e-brake adjuster. The e-brake is just like any other shoe brake. When the pedal is not depressed..the springs move the shoes away from the drum for easy movement. If the shoes are pushing against the rotor/drum so hard you can't pull it off even with the screws..then you'd have a hard time even moving the wheels.
Atlanta_man
New member
Hmmm, but not if there is a ridge/corrosion in the right place for the shoes to hang on
nevada
Senior Member
yes, this is an issue.
but, the rotor will usually rock/move somewhat.
i was under the impression it was solid, and not moving at all.
Bingo! If there's a ridge on the parking brake surface for the shoe to get hung up on is bad news. Worst case scenario, is you rip off the clips for the shoes. They're a pain put back on. Back off those parking brake shoes.
Was wondering if you guys know what size bolt and thread pitch I need to get to get the rear rotors off?
Will be doing this in the next week or so. Thanks
MSU4Runner
New member
Man I wish I had found this write-up before replacing my rear rotors today. All videos I saw never mentioned having to line up a hole and free the e-brake shoes. So I did eventually get the old rotors off, and they tugged at the e-brake to the point where one of the little spring assemblies came loose and fell out the bottom. I tried for a long time to get it back in place, but there are just too many moving parts with the pin that goes from behind the dust shield through the spring and its top/bottom plates. Is there a technique somewhere? Or am I going to have to pull the hub in order to get better access to the e-brake assembly?
Thanks!
That spring and cap is a ***** but I did eventually find a method that worked really well.
I rotate the axle so that one of the access holes is right above the spot where the spring goes. Next I insert the pin from behind the housing. After that I set in the bottom spring cap in place. I will usually put some brake grease on it to get it to stick in place. Once that's done I take the spring and two of the smallest zip ties that they make and I compress the spring all the way down using the zip ties to hold the spring in full compression. I then cut off the extra zip tie material and coat the spring in brake grease. With the spring pre-tensioned and covered in grease it will slide right over that positioning pin and stay in place while you stack the top cap in place and rotate it 90 degrees to the locked position.
Once everything is lined up good, hit those zip ties with a propane torch and they will break loose almost immediately and the spring will pop out to it's normal length and all will be good.
I rotate the axle so that one of the access holes is right above the spot where the spring goes. Next I insert the pin from behind the housing. After that I set in the bottom spring cap in place. I will usually put some brake grease on it to get it to stick in place. Once that's done I take the spring and two of the smallest zip ties that they make and I compress the spring all the way down using the zip ties to hold the spring in full compression. I then cut off the extra zip tie material and coat the spring in brake grease. With the spring pre-tensioned and covered in grease it will slide right over that positioning pin and stay in place while you stack the top cap in place and rotate it 90 degrees to the locked position.
Once everything is lined up good, hit those zip ties with a propane torch and they will break loose almost immediately and the spring will pop out to it's normal length and all will be good.
MSU4Runner
New member
Thanks for the info! I'm going to take another stab at it tomorrow with a fresh set of patience and rest. Hopefully will have better results - thank you!
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