Rear Rotors Warped twice in 9000 miles

[Darryle]

Vehicle: 2003 V8 Limited AWD

Okay, I have read multiple threads on the front rotor caliper issues, sticking pistons, warping, erratic braking etc. I originally bought this 4 Runner with warped rotors, both front and rear. I used Toyota pads, caliper pins, springs/clips, shims and boots. I had the rotors turned and we took small amounts, less than .005" on a pass, and the front rotors were not warped but the rears were and cleaned up within .030".

At about 6000 miles the pulsing returned on the rears. I checked the front and rears again using a dial indicator and only the rears were warped.I had them turned and I went as far this time to replace even the parking brake shoes and hardware. The pulsing is starting to return and they are well above the minimum thickness as stamped on the rotor. I checked them again and the rears are warped again. I have been careful to torque the lug nuts, even after having the tires rotated and balanced.

My wife literally drives 14 miles round trip to work, rarely hits the freeway, but does occasionally going to her parents house.

Are the rear rotors just that crappy? I have read numerous post about replacing them with various brands. Is there a performance brand or a particular brand that gives better performance or resists warping better?

Do I need to replace the calipers? They slide freely with pistons completely collapsed, pistons don't seem to be sticking, but could be and I just can't make it replicate while on the jack stands.

My wife is about to kill me and I am at my wits end with this.

Thanks Darryle

 

[Victor]

Try slapping on a set of new OEM rotors, let us know how that goes.

 

[truckhigh]

its probably your wheel bearings causing your rotor to wobble.

 

[RPS13]

OEM pads suck these days. Seriously, they've gone so far on the "no noise, no dust, and CHEAP" train that the pads cannot handle the peak temps generated with stopping a heavy rig like ours on the road.

Get NEW rotors (I personally like the Centric premium rotors, not their bargain line), and some Akebono ProACT pads. Problem solved, no dust, no noise, but they can handle a reasonable amount of heat.

If your calipers aren't dragging horribly, they'll be fine.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Are you turning the rotors with an on-car lathe? I have come to find that the rotors do actually suck on the 4th gens. I'm using Brakeperformance.com rotors and pads on my 4th gen but I'm not exactly happy with them. Stopping performance is great but they seem to suffer from pad build-up often. The build-up burns off using the pad bed-in procedure but it's still something that I shouldn't have to do. Also, nobody wants to touch these slotted and dimpled rotors with a brake lathe.

I also recommend starting with new rotors. If they warp again, you have a caliper or e-brake dragging.

 

[Greydog]

My guess is one or more rear caliper is freezing up due to corrosion.

Try driving it to work and see if one side smells like baking brake pad? It'll smell funkier than the others, that's the culprit.

 

[justoffroad]

its almost certainly one of the calipers, replace or rebuild both. then throw new rotors on too

 

[M1911]

I bet you've got stuck calipers. I've replaced all the calipers on my '03 multiple times. If you don't fix the calipers, your next replacement rotors will warp (actually, get material deposits from the pads) as well.

 

[RPS13]

Are you turning the rotors with an on-car lathe? I have come to find that the rotors do actually suck on the 4th gens. I'm using Brakeperformance.com rotors and pads on my 4th gen but I'm not exactly happy with them. Stopping performance is great but they seem to suffer from pad build-up often. The build-up burns off using the pad bed-in procedure but it's still something that I shouldn't have to do. Also, nobody wants to touch these slotted and dimpled rotors with a brake lathe.

I also recommend starting with new rotors. If they warp again, you have a caliper or e-brake dragging.

You need better pads. It'll make the problem ago away.


I know our calipers supposedly sieze up a lot, but I've felt this on A LOT of new cars with personally serviceable calipers. Brake pads have gotten cheap and crappy, plus the quest for zero dust is driving them to be less tolerant of high heat. It's a bad combo since vehicles have gotten heavier and heavier over the years.

 

[gm350reratliff]

Yeah, maybe that is it. I'm running Brakeperformance.com's premiere pads but maybe some Akebono pads would be better. I know that I didn't like the EBC pads with the OEM rotors at all.

 

[Darryle]

Rotors were turned in a machine shop on Ammco brake lathe.

Are we talking pistons or calipers themselves freezing? Everything slide easily and pistons didn't seem to be an issue.

Sounds like I need to just buy the calipers, hardware and pads and replace it all at once.

It is just the rears, the fronts are fine.

 

[duffdog]

In the old days, Dealers would demand that the people REPLACE the entire caliper with a completely new caliper or they wouldn't warranty the brake job.


I think once you have all new brake parts your troubles will be gone completely.

 

[Ventil8]

My mechanic replaced both the front bearings/hub that I bought from a forum member here. I ordered Toyota rotors and pads and replaced the fronts(rotors were warped). The driving is now smooth and I'm not hearing any noise or seeing any brake dust after a week of driving. It literally feels like the day I bought it off the lot. In the fall, I will have the rear rotors and pads replaced. I have 120,900 miles on my 4runner and after 10.5 years, it's time for new rotors.

 

[LTDSC]

OEM pads suck these days. Seriously, they've gone so far on the "no noise, no dust, and CHEAP" train that the pads cannot handle the peak temps generated with stopping a heavy rig like ours on the road.

Get NEW rotors (I personally like the Centric premium rotors, not their bargain line), and some Akebono ProACT pads. Problem solved, no dust, no noise, but they can handle a reasonable amount of heat.

If your calipers aren't dragging horribly, they'll be fine.

OEM pads are fine, dont cheap out and buy the AZ pads.

 

[RPS13]

OEM pads are fine, dont cheap out and buy the AZ pads.

Meh, I'm not impressed with any OEM pads from any Asian Mfr these days. Honda probably goes the most aggressive on compound out of the lot, and even those are pretty ho-hum on initial bite and coefficient of friction.

I had some OEM pads in the rear of my 4Runner when I bought it, and replaced them with some cheap Centric PosiQuiets (I think they cost me like $14? wholesale price). The friction increase and initial bite improvement was immediately apparent. They seem to degrade less with heat as well when towing.

If a bargain pad offers improvements in all areas - you know Toyota is probably paying almost nothing for their pads.

 

[LTDSC]

Meh, I'm not impressed with any OEM pads from any Asian Mfr these days. Honda probably goes the most aggressive on compound out of the lot, and even those are pretty ho-hum on initial bite and coefficient of friction.

I had some OEM pads in the rear of my 4Runner when I bought it, and replaced them with some cheap Centric PosiQuiets (I think they cost me like $14? wholesale price). The friction increase and initial bite improvement was immediately apparent. They seem to degrade less with heat as well when towing.

If a bargain pad offers improvements in all areas - you know Toyota is probably paying almost nothing for their pads.

Most used cars got the AZ pads. They're cheap and squeal. I stopped selling them because i wouldnt run them on my own.

 

[RPS13]

Most used cars got the AZ pads. They're cheap and squeal. I stopped selling them because i wouldnt run them on my own.

All parts store branded pads suck without question.

 

[LTDSC]

Lol whatever you say

 

[av8ter]

You might be getting the vibration from the front rotors even though they're not "warped". Most of the vibration concerns are having to do with the rotors having "hot spots", parts of the rotor where an uneven amount of pad material has been deposited causing the additional(and inconsistent) drag when braking.


You're a good guy though, would have immediately begin determined as "Wife" at fault by most.

 

[RPS13]

Lol whatever you say

I've probably changed more brake pads and put miles on them on personal vehicles than most here. Plus I've probably over-temp'd more pads than most as well.