Rear shock mount tower

TJM

TJM

New member
Been a while since I posted much here, mostly because I wasn't sure I was going to stick with my replacement rig since it has so many issues, but I think I'm going to give it a go.

So, according to my local (mostly useless) Toyota dealership, the rear shock mount towers are rusted and need to be replaced. They won't even give me an estimate for the work, which is typical of them. They prefer I buy a new vehicle.

I can handle a lot of work on my own with my friends help, since he's a trained mechanic and has a lift and a nice big box of Snap On happiness, but he didn't sound enthused about taking this on, so it looks like I'm going to the frame shop.

Has anyone ever had to do this? What would the ballpark cost likely be? I'm going to get an estimate next week but need to prepare myself for the sticker shock. The shop I go to for this stuff is pretty dependable and I trust them, but if it's going to be cost prohibitive I don't know that I wan't to bother. This may be make or break on this rig.

Thanks!
 
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I forgot to add, the ride is really bouncy when I go over bumps. The shocks are maybe a year old, at most. Would that be related to the mount towers?
 
if the upper mount is rusted away, then it can't hold the shock anymore so the shock is unable to control the spring action, causing bounciness.

have you checked shock mounts yourself? it can be easily checked by crawling under the truck and you can reach it with your hands. wear gloves to protect your hands/fingers from sharp items if in case the mount is rusted
 
Hmmm. ARe you sure they are rusted through? you aren't quiet in the result belt you would hear really loud banging sounds. how heavily do they salt the areas there?

I replaced my shocks as well, and still feels like the rear is bouncey. but my rear springs are also shot they are <2 inches from the stops.
 
Has your mechanic friend put it on his lift and seen for himself?
Another random option if the mount is in fact fried may be an outboard shock mount?
Not sure if stock backspacing/clearance becomes an issue though.
 
They're probably just rusty, not rusted through.

But if they're rusted through, you and a buddy mechanic won't be able to repair without some welding equipment and skills.
 
TJM said:
Been a while since I posted much here, mostly because I wasn't sure I was going to stick with my replacement rig since it has so many issues, but I think I'm going to give it a go.

So, according to my local (mostly useless) Toyota dealership, the rear shock mount towers are rusted and need to be replaced. They won't even give me an estimate for the work, which is typical of them. They prefer I buy a new vehicle.

I can handle a lot of work on my own with my friends help, since he's a trained mechanic and has a lift and a nice big box of Snap On happiness, but he didn't sound enthused about taking this on, so it looks like I'm going to the frame shop.

Has anyone ever had to do this? What would the ballpark cost likely be? I'm going to get an estimate next week but need to prepare myself for the sticker shock. The shop I go to for this stuff is pretty dependable and I trust them, but if it's going to be cost prohibitive I don't know that I wan't to bother. This may be make or break on this rig.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

yes, i have done this






Yup? Torching near the gas tank. Shhhhh


Driver side removed. Because why not do both sides !


Passenger side removed. The side that rusted through.






 
Top mount on the round cross member is impossible to completely remove it unless removing the whole body which is a no no. The replacement part will have to be slightly modified and welded from bottom. How ever everything is basically ready for welding. Good tip on removing old weld. Is to cut into with a small wheel cut. Make sure to NOT CUT INTO THE FRAME. Then get out a air chisel and you'll be amazed how it will pop of the old weld/metal. And you'll be left with just little be of grinding to do. Grinding down a weld is very very hard vs regular steel. Thanks to my friend he took care of it.





 
Alright boys and girl. UPDATE

Primed and painted before the shock mounts gets welded. Because it will be impossible to reach some areas with a brush after the mounts are welded.



Test fit




Best believe it. It fits exactly in the same original spot. Only thing is we had to cut back the front part of the mount facing the front of the truck. The section that goes on top of the round cross member. But no big deal. My friend cut back the old mount as far as possible. And trimmed back the replacement one and it sits very nicely.





This was the hardest part to weld for my friend. The way the mount goes on the tube. It creates a big gap. The original mount is welded from too before the body goes on. But no big deal. He filled it in pretty solid.




The driver side.




the rear shock towers you can purchase at OEM retailer. One side is more expensive then the other lol dont ask why. There is a lot of photos on my build thread.

$200 for both shock mounts basically, thats it. And i recomment getting new lower shock bolts, and whatever else you decide
 
HiluxSurf SSR-G said:
if the upper mount is rusted away, then it can't hold the shock anymore so the shock is unable to control the spring action, causing bounciness.

have you checked shock mounts yourself? it can be easily checked by crawling under the truck and you can reach it with your hands. wear gloves to protect your hands/fingers from sharp items if in case the mount is rusted
Click to expand...

if the shock is rusted through, it would be hitting the body. And you will hear that. Ask me how i know
 
Yikes. How much would you charge me to do all that?

Maybe I should just buy a Lear Jet and be done with it...
 
Looks good! Man what a pita that job seems to be. I noticed my rear shock tops were a bit rusty also. I'm going to try cleaning them up thoroughly and applying Por-15 but i think i'll wait until the weather breaks.
 
Impressive work.

Surprising how that rusted out, given that the rest of the frame looks pretty solid, even allowing that it has been recently painted.

On the frame of mine that died last year, those upper shock mounts are still reasonably solid. They are very beefy metal. I guess it pays to keep those drain holes clear.(Not that I did that, except once when I changed my shocks at about 100k.)
 
Thanks guys. You know the hardest part of that job is grinding the old welds down. Big tip I can give you for that is cut in the weld with a cutting wheel. Then use a air jack hammer to just pop the weld off.

Anyways, the parts aren't expensive like I said. [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] was the one who gave me the part # for the shock towers. Big issue is how they are designed. It's basically a cup. Perfect area for muddy sand to sit. Thus eating metal away.

Before they got welded. I tapped the drain hole to the biggest size I can. Drain hole is close to a weld. Toyota welds like a thick washer which you mount your shock in. And I taped the drain hole in a small angle. So the water runs out better.

Then I used monstaliner chassis saver paint. Once it all got welded I went over with chassis saver again. Especially over the welds. I did like 6 coats. Thick to. Hardest area to get painted is the top area where it sits on the round cross member. So I just dipped my brush heavily and somehow got it in.

The metal is acivery think. Which is surprising to me that it rusted through. If someone could modify the cup design to like reverse cup. It will be better for longer shocks to. Anyways, .....

Forgot to add. We had to cut away like 1/2" of the metal from OEM replacement tower. Because the original tower like goes over the whole round cross member. So we just cut diwn a little and but it right next to the old one. Impossible to cut that area 100% off unless you have the body of. I hope you understand what I mean.
 
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Well it was beautifully done. I hope my shop does that nice a job.

Would the mounts being rusted out make for a rough ride?
 
TJM said:
Well it was beautifully done. I hope my shop does that nice a job.

Would the mounts being rusted out make for a rough ride?
Click to expand...

I dont want to burst your bubble, but nothing will ever be done nicley unless you truly do it your self. I personally would never let a shop do this job. At least i know my self that i grinned, sanded everything, painted everything.

Again, depends which part is rusted through. Most likely it would be the shock area. So, if the shock is rusted through, YOUR SHOCK WILL HIT YOUR BODY, could actually even push through your body. Every time you go over a bump you will head a BOOM in the back. Thats the top shock hitting your body. If not, i doubt its rusted or probably soon it will be. Get under the truck and check it. Put your hand up top on the mount. If you feel and grab big chunks of metal, thats a good sign of it about to push through.
 
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