Remote Key Fob Programming Help: Rear window won’t roll down

I purchased two remote key fobs on amazon, and was able to program both to lock and unlock, but I haven’t been able to get the rear window to roll down. What am I missing? I went through the programming procedure that had been highlighted on this site, as well as some clips on YouTube.

Thanks for your help!
 
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I just did this but thats a test I did not perform. Ill check when I return home to see if I was successful when I did this last week and compare with your process. I did 3 fobs. Are your fobs rehab OEM?
 
I had the same issue with ones I bought from Amazon (don't remember the seller but I can look it up). Lock and unlock work fine but I could NEVER get the rear window button to do anything. Sucks too, my 1 OEM fob I have left the buttons are starting to not work anymore so I'll be forced to use the replacements with non-working rear window button.
 
Forgive me if this is off base, but you guys DO know you have to HOLD that button a few seconds before the window will roll down?
 
I hope I'm not adding insult to injury but if it's a '96 to '98 model that second button does nothing unless you have a second 4Runner.
 
I still have my OEM fob, all 3 buttons do what they should (Lock, Unlock, Rear Window). Since the truck only had the one fob when I bought it I decided to buy some more fobs off of Amazon so I had spares (for wife to use if needed and I had my keys with me or whatever). I programmed the new fobs (took a while to get THAT working) and the lock and unlock buttons work as they should, the 3rd button, rear window, does not (on the Amazon fobs).
 
Forgive me if this is off base, but you guys DO know you have to HOLD that button a few seconds before the window will roll down?

Not at all, and thanks for the suggestion but I did that, thinking logically it would require the button to be held down to roll the window down but no dice. It’s a 2001.
 
I just did this but thats a test I did not perform. Ill check when I return home to see if I was successful when I did this last week and compare with your process. I did 3 fobs. Are your fobs rehab OEM?

No. They’re a packaged deal that I got from Amazon. Two fobs and two uncut keys. I don’t believe they are OEM.
 
I had the same issue with ones I bought from Amazon (don't remember the seller but I can look it up). Lock and unlock work fine but I could NEVER get the rear window button to do anything. Sucks too, my 1 OEM fob I have left the buttons are starting to not work anymore so I'll be forced to use the replacements with non-working rear window button.

Sometimes OEM fobs can be given new life by bending the battery contacts so that they make tighter contact. Both of mine needed that treatment.
 
So I kind-of had this issue a on a double set I got off Amazon about a month ago. I was able to get one of the key fobs to work completely, but I couldn’t get the back window to roll down on the second fob.

The interesting thing is that the two key fobs that were sent to me were different from each other. They had the same button layout and all that, but they were built differently. You could tell, the cases were made with a completely different mold, the buttons had a different mold, the rubber on the inside had a different mold, the printed circuit board assembly was totally different, and on the one with the non-working back window there was a really bad interference issue with the panic button on the back (basically the second one was terribly engineered). So I came to the conclusion that this amazon seller probably sources their fobs from different manufacturers, and one of the manufacturers (at least) doesn’t work well.

You probably got both of your fobs from that bad manufacturer.
 
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So I kind-of had this issue a on a double set I got off Amazon about a month ago. I was able to get one of the key fobs to work completely, but I couldn’t get the back window to roll down on the second fob.

The interesting thing is that the two key fobs that were sent to me were different from each other. They had the same button layout and all that, but they were built differently. You could tell, the cases were made with a completely different mold, the buttons had a different mold, the rubber on the inside had a different mold, the printed circuit board assembly was totally different, and on the one with the non-working back window there was a really bad interference issue with the panic button on the back (basically the second one was terribly engineered). So I came to the conclusion that this amazon seller probably sources their fobs from different manufacturers, and one of the manufacturers (at least) doesn’t work well.

You probably got both of your fobs from that bad manufacturer.

I suspect as much, that there are various companies that make the aftermarket key fobs and make them look the same, or very close to the OEM ones.

It’s going to bother me a bit, but I’ll learn to live with it. It’s not a big deal, as I really don’t roll the window down that much.
 
I checked all 3 of mine all 3 worked and all OEM. Not sure if you want me to pass along instructions I used I assume its the same as you used let me know

Here’s what I did:

Stick key in, take key out without turning
Lock/unlock 5 cycles
Close door, open door
Lock/unlock 5 cycles
Key in, turn to on, off, on, off, pull key out
Push lock and unlock down one second, then lock button only for 2 seconds.
Wait for door lock to pop down and up for confirmation. If the door lock cycles twice, repeat the last two steps.
Do the last to steps for every key fob
Beer, because beer
 
Here’s what I did:

Stick key in, take key out without turning
Lock/unlock 5 cycles
Close door, open door
Lock/unlock 5 cycles
Key in, turn to on, off, on, off, pull key out
Push lock and unlock down one second, then lock button only for 2 seconds.
Wait for door lock to pop down and up for confirmation. If the door lock cycles twice, repeat the last two steps.
Do the last to steps for every key fob
Beer, because beer

Yup that's it but I added a cigar too cuz I also programmed 2 master keys too
 

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