Replaced U-Joints and still vibrating... Now what?

Hoping that people still drive their 4runners or can help me

Long time 3rd gen driver, first time poster. I just need to verify with somebody else that I am looking at my U joints right.
I'm sure that this is bad, alot of play, already slipped out of the cover. I'm surprised I haven't gotten stranded honestly. I don't think I can post pics yet but I took a couple if anyone would like to message me.

rwqd1x.jpg

160aczd.jpg
 
[MENTION=167175]ksigh[/MENTION]
If that is as bad as the picture looks- I am surprised it hasn't left you stranded either! Hopefully it doesn't today either [emoji23]
You have got to have bad vibrations, yeah?
 
[MENTION=167175]ksigh[/MENTION]
If that is as bad as the picture looks- I am surprised it hasn't left you stranded either! Hopefully it doesn't today either [emoji23]
You have got to have bad vibrations, yeah?

[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
Yes, it is as bad as the picture. It's pretty much slipped out of the cover completely. Yes, bad vibrations when I'm hitting the gas. When I let off, vibration kinda disappears but its still there. but it gets bad when accelerating or cruising. I've actually been scared to drive it. OH, and when I put it in reverse, there's a loud clunk, and from reverse to park, or drive, same clunk.

I bet this started when I heard something ping from under my car a few months back, looked at my mirror but didn't see anything fall out.
 
[MENTION=167175]ksigh[/MENTION] off topic but damn that's a clean belly pic! I HATE the rust belt with a passion when I see pics like this!
 
[MENTION=136650]DK327[/MENTION] Lol. Thanks. Car has only been between Southern California and Texas (in parts where it doesn't snow).
 
Oh boy, don't drive it with the u-joint like that! Well, you can move the truck around your driveway, maybe... Either get the joints replaced or get a whole new shaft to avoid the rubber degradation issue.

-Charlie
 
DO NOT Drive with that!!! getting stranded would be the least of your worries if it drops out. I've seen the results of shafts dropping at tranny end catching on pavement seams and ripping out rearend. Fatalitys were involved.
 
DO NOT Drive with that!!! getting stranded would be the least of your worries if it drops out. I've seen the results of shafts dropping at tranny end catching on pavement seams and ripping out rearend. Fatalitys were involved.

I actually remember the same thing... a few years back a classic mustang was taken on the freeway when the DS dropped and ripped the rear end out... what made it worse was it was the 1st drive by the owner after it was restored by a shop!

no fatalities on that one but still... car was not totaled but needed another 6 months of 'restoration'...
 
Upon further inspection, I noticed this from the other side of the pic from yesterday. Would I be okay in just replacing the u joint?
242ivlg.jpg
 
Brakes shouldn't cause vibration unless you are braking. Is the vibration through the steering wheel (front end problem), or through the whole truck (rear end problem)? Maybe you lost a wheel weight?
Helping keep an old thread bumped by quoting a 6 year old post...

Technically, brakes should not cause vibration, period. That being said, extremely shot front brakes can cause front end shimmy.

I'd had 'warped' rotors for 2 years since I bought my truck. God know how long they were like that when the PO owned it. (I've done a shit-ton of other maintenance; it's funny how you just get used to things).
I had some decent front end shimmy around 60-80. New tires, new LBJs, and it was better, but still there. I'm replacing my u-joints soon as there is a little bit of play in them.

I finally installed my Sequoia Brakes last weekend because inspection is due and I doubt I would have passed the safety inspection.

Anyways, after installing my SBU setup, a ton of the shimmy is gone. I'm assuming that there was so little pad left and the rotor was so 'warped' that it was always making slight contact and causing the vibration at high speeds.
They also slightly squeaked even when not braking, so I know there was constant contact.
 
Alright, what am I doing wrong? I can't get the nuts off to get the driveshaft off to save my life. I'm starting to just strip the nut itself. Already soaked it in PB.. should I just let it sit for even longer before starting back up? I'm also trying this without lifting the car.. would that be close to impossible? I have limited resources and money to do this hence why I am doing it myself lol. Thanks in advance.
 
Hey guys! Just an update.. finally replaced my u-joints and now my car runs so smooth that it's kinda weird. I got used to the crazy vibrations. Lol.
 
New here....& female. Apologies in advance.
Just bought 2wd ‘99 4Runner. Super clean, 1 owner, 104k. Test drove to 55mph (booo).
On way home, got the wom wom wom/deep vibration noise 65 to 70.

U joints had play. Replaced. Vibration still there.
Then bought entire new driveshaft. Still there.
Replaced tranny mount. Still there.
Only got new symptoms at lower speeds.

Don’t think it’s tires - vibration lessens in neutral.
Also has a vibration in drive when I’m stopped at a light-maybe motor mounts? Could motor mounts cause driveline vibration at high speeds. It sure feels like it’s a driveshaft problem but I’ve eliminated that.
Hope transmission isn’t the problem although some mentioned the tail shaft bushing?
No seal leaks.
At a loss.
 
New here....& female. Apologies in advance.
Just bought 2wd ‘99 4Runner. Super clean, 1 owner, 104k. Test drove to 55mph (booo).
On way home, got the wom wom wom/deep vibration noise 65 to 70.

U joints had play. Replaced. Vibration still there.
Then bought entire new driveshaft. Still there.
Replaced tranny mount. Still there.
Only got new symptoms at lower speeds.

Don’t think it’s tires - vibration lessens in neutral.
Also has a vibration in drive when I’m stopped at a light-maybe motor mounts? Could motor mounts cause driveline vibration at high speeds. It sure feels like it’s a driveshaft problem but I’ve eliminated that.
Hope transmission isn’t the problem although some mentioned the tail shaft bushing?
No seal leaks.
At a loss.

Not sure if I have a couple things going on.
Jacked car & accelerated. Got the noise.
After throwing parts at it, I did a stationary test in drive & did quick accelerations. There’s a noticeable engine twist. After 10 accelerations, it started to vibrate.

So now, I’m basically getting deep noise at lower speeds (40mph) as well as vibrations at idle.
 
Not sure if I have a couple things going on.
Jacked car & accelerated. Got the noise.
After throwing parts at it, I did a stationary test in drive & did quick accelerations. There’s a noticeable engine twist. After 10 accelerations, it started to vibrate.

So now, I’m basically getting deep noise at lower speeds (40mph) as well as vibrations


Engine twist could be caused by broken or bad engine mounts. I had a vibration that ended up being rear wheel bearings but it only happened when driving and not when idling. The new drive shaft oem or aftermarket? I am not sure but I've read somewhere that the rubber piece connection joining the inner and outer tubes of the drive shaft on the 2wd drive models deteriotes over time and can cause driveline vibrations.
 
Not sure if I have a couple things going on.
Jacked car & accelerated. Got the noise.
After throwing parts at it, I did a stationary test in drive & did quick accelerations. There’s a noticeable engine twist. After 10 accelerations, it started to vibrate.

So now, I’m basically getting deep noise at lower speeds (40mph) as well as vibrations


Engine twist could be caused by broken or bad engine mounts. I had a vibration that ended up being rear wheel bearings but it only happened when driving and not when idling. The new drive shaft oem or aftermarket? I am not sure but I've read somewhere that the rubber piece connection joining the inner and outer tubes of the drive shaft on the 2wd drive models deteriotes over time and can cause driveline vibrations.

Thx for response...

I did a lot of research & aware of rubber cnnct on drive shaft so I ordered solid one from a company recommended here that specializes in avoiding that issue.
It’s been mounted twice - 180 turn.

Not knowing car’s history but seeing immaculate interior & low miles, it’s confusing. Did they have undiagnosed issues that is causing long term effects that I’ve inherited? Ujoints loose. Tranny Mount worn.
Engine mounts probably not great.

Tires are mismatched & could be out of balance but I’m testing this jacked in the air & getting deep noise at high speeds??
 
Thx for response...

I did a lot of research & aware of rubber cnnct on drive shaft so I ordered solid one from a company recommended here that specializes in avoiding that issue.
It’s been mounted twice - 180 turn.

Not knowing car’s history but seeing immaculate interior & low miles, it’s confusing. Did they have undiagnosed issues that is causing long term effects that I’ve inherited? Ujoints loose. Tranny Mount worn.
Engine mounts probably not great.

Tires are mismatched & could be out of balance but I’m testing this jacked in the air & getting deep noise at high speeds??

its still a 20 year old vehicle and without maintenance records it has the unknown factor but these are tough trucks and take a lot of abuse. All I can think is, if it's not the drives shaft or u joints then torque converter or rear differential pinion bearing or wheel bearing. Good luck.
 
Appreciate it!


Just wanted to put this out there in case someone had similar symptoms. I have a feeling it’s a few things. Will proceed to motor mounts.

BTW, neutral does eliminate most vibrations.

I will mention that the drive shaft on tranny end had a little resistance upon removal. Slight hold up before it came out. Happened each time with old & new drive shafts.

I also noticed passenger rotor has a hot spot (no obvious symptoms) & shocks not great. Anyone know if either of these two issues could cause pulsing deep sounds/vibrations?
 

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