Replacement brake options
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Mike07SE
New member
You can always go with the 5th gen caliper set as a replacement for the front of the truck. Most people seem to be going this route with hopes of it solving the frozen piston issues on top of the larger piston area they also provide.
I recently picked this rear kit up in the link below, but have not yet to install. As far as the inspection goes, they do look great.
Z36 Extreme Performance Truck & Tow 1-Click Brake Kit with Calipers | Power Stop.
I will be following this up with a matching front kit as well as 5th gen calipers that I will likely have powdercoated to match.
I recently picked this rear kit up in the link below, but have not yet to install. As far as the inspection goes, they do look great.
Z36 Extreme Performance Truck & Tow 1-Click Brake Kit with Calipers | Power Stop.
I will be following this up with a matching front kit as well as 5th gen calipers that I will likely have powdercoated to match.
verman84
New member
Are you looking to upgrade calipers as well or just pads and rotors?
If you upgrade calipers, upgrade to centric painted 5th gen calipers. (Look for the 5th gen brake upgrade thread)
For just pads and rotors, I like centric rotors and I went with Napa premium pads.
Tooltime19
New member
Im running Powerslot Slotted Rotors front and rear. NO Cross Drilled on a stock OEM brake package.
For pads, I use HAWK HPS pads front and rear. The Hawk pads produce minimal dust, have excellent cold bite, and the hotter they get the better they stop.
I have run this combo for well over 20 years. I have this combo on my SRT8 Dodge Charger, my Ford Explorer Sport-Trac pre-runner project and on my T-4.
All my vehicles stop better, and make no noise.
If you want to top off your Yota brake system, go with the combo I mentioned above, replace your front and rear brake lines with Stainless Steel Braided lines and flush the old brake fluid out in favor of a high temp brake fluid. For a stock brake system, and for the least amount of money, this is the best way to go. There are other things you can do, such as better calipers ect. But using the OEM stuff, my package works great for me, and I drive all my stuff very spirited if you know what I mean! Good luck.:becky:
For pads, I use HAWK HPS pads front and rear. The Hawk pads produce minimal dust, have excellent cold bite, and the hotter they get the better they stop.
I have run this combo for well over 20 years. I have this combo on my SRT8 Dodge Charger, my Ford Explorer Sport-Trac pre-runner project and on my T-4.
All my vehicles stop better, and make no noise.
If you want to top off your Yota brake system, go with the combo I mentioned above, replace your front and rear brake lines with Stainless Steel Braided lines and flush the old brake fluid out in favor of a high temp brake fluid. For a stock brake system, and for the least amount of money, this is the best way to go. There are other things you can do, such as better calipers ect. But using the OEM stuff, my package works great for me, and I drive all my stuff very spirited if you know what I mean! Good luck.:becky:
shahsmerdis
New member
I'm an OEM type of guy. So OEM OEM OEM!
If you decide to replace your calipers 5th gen seems like a nice route. I'd go with the centric 142 series, they are prepainted, and guaranteed to have a new piston. only 10-20 dollars more per caliper.
If you decide to replace your calipers 5th gen seems like a nice route. I'd go with the centric 142 series, they are prepainted, and guaranteed to have a new piston. only 10-20 dollars more per caliper.
I too was looking at the powerstop z36 package. The claim and price (front and rear well under 400$) seems to good. But they (powerstop) get good to great reviews here and elsewhere and I tow In the mountains. A light (3k) trailer but as I said lots of steep passes.
Then I got to thinking about the OEM package that is on there. Works fine. I've never come close to overheating the current brakes. Maybe a drive right. Maybe my transmission wishes I'd use more brake. (Oh, for a manual 4th gen...) Even on a trip where my trailer brakes went gaga and I had to disconnect them.
Also a large part of my travel and most of my braking is on dirt, gravel, muddy or slushy gravel treated roads. I think smooth rotors might be better for me.
Rock Auto is touting a new rotor: Dura International. Which I'm considering If my OEM rotors won't cleanup.
Anyone familiar with Dura International?
Other choices for a quality smooth rotor a bit less pricey than OEM?
Then I got to thinking about the OEM package that is on there. Works fine. I've never come close to overheating the current brakes. Maybe a drive right. Maybe my transmission wishes I'd use more brake. (Oh, for a manual 4th gen...) Even on a trip where my trailer brakes went gaga and I had to disconnect them.
Also a large part of my travel and most of my braking is on dirt, gravel, muddy or slushy gravel treated roads. I think smooth rotors might be better for me.
Rock Auto is touting a new rotor: Dura International. Which I'm considering If my OEM rotors won't cleanup.
Anyone familiar with Dura International?
Other choices for a quality smooth rotor a bit less pricey than OEM?
isdriven
New member
Whaaaaat, first I am hearing of running 5th gen calipers!!! I geek out over OEM brake upgrades:bravo:
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shahsmerdis
New member
if you shop around, OEM can be about the same price.... what size rotor do you have? rotors and pads are balanced so you will get long life out of them. ill make a cart for you. Also if you have a discover card, (i think amex as well) you can price match first 3 months if you find a better deal else where.
Also clean the rust out of your rear caliper where the pad meets the caliper. Use new hard ware as well. I had about 2 mm of rust build up that caused my pads to seize in place. your pads should move freely, you shouldnt have to jam them in...you can always change out the mounting bracket if you are lazy. its about 15 bucks if you shop around. might even be able to find it with new mounting hardware, so the cost may be the same. lube those slide pins with silicone paste.
if you havent flushed your brake fluid in a while do that as well!
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progress4m
Member
If you are keeping all calipers (which is what I did) then I would recommend what I have done (I only did the front): I went with Toyota OEM brake pads ($70.00) and O’Reilly’s Bosh brand rotors ($66.99 each) with lifetime warranty;
Be advised: Toyota has 2 lines of brake pads one is OE and another one is OEM; for 4th gen 4Runner (front) it translates into following part numbers: 04465-35290 (which is original OEM part) and 04465-az001-tm (which is cheaper “aftermarket” grade alternative part);
Make sure you get 04465-35290 as it is definitely worth it!
Over all I am very happy with above setup, brakes are absolutely silent and feel great!
Also, keep the shims from your original pads… at least in my case they had Teflon coating (I would think all 4runers would be the same) and so much higher quality vs. any aftermarket shims I have seeing…
shahsmerdis
New member
I don't get why not get OEM rotors it is 10 cheaper before shipping
FRONT BRAKES for 2004 Toyota 4Runner
57 vs 67
1+ to OEM pads getting the right part number.
progress4m
Member
paraordnance
New member
I second vote for Powerstop rotors and pads. Don't use OEM as others suggest. There is no comparison and no going back once you try PowerStop brake kits. Huge difference in materials, finish, performance and cost. None for OEM win, seriously.
paraordnance
New member
I think it's another one of those myth spreading around. My PowerStop rotors and pads do not, crack or cause warp-age unlike NAPA and OEM rotors and pads I have used in the past. Keep in mind not every rotor made equally. As you can see on picture below there is no stress cracks.
Slotted and drilled is not a requirement. You can install same rotors but without slots and holes, its really up to you if you paranoid. I personally never had any problems. BUT, HUGE BUT. I do not off-road. If you do, avoid slots and holes in rotors altogether since they been reported to fill up with mud, hard to clean on their own which causes unnecessary wear to both rotors and pads.
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Tooltime19
New member
I really want to compose a long report on the what when and whys of brake pads and rotors I have gained from the last 20+ years in motor sports and high performance vehicles, but dont want to bore you with a bunch or boring stats.
Bottom line;
1) Not every customer needs high end brake parts.
2) One should never buy cheap quality components. You get what you pay for.
3) The only reason to buy brake parts is to make your vehicle stop when YOU want it to. So, if you are going to replace components, use at least what came on the vehicle exactly, or hey, if there is a chance of making your vehicle safer by allowing it to stop shorter, which could be the difference of hitting something or someone or not, so why not.
4) There are many options out there, again, its really comes down to budget,your uses, and increasing the potential safety of your vehicle.
5)Cross Drilled rotors on a stock brake package loses around 11% of braking surface material. I rarely sell cross drilled, but when I do its for the slow rock crawler guys. The cross drilled helps remove heat buildup. The slow speeds of rock crawling doesnt allow enough airflow to the rotors which lead to warping, so thats where cross drilled comes in handy. Tpyically, if Cross Drilled are used in other than a stock vehicle, the caliper and rotor size usually increases to compensate for the loss of material.
6) I use Slotted for towing, and fast/spirited driving. Slotted loses maybe 3% of material. While this is a loss, its a positive in the way the slots help draw heat out, cooler air in and helps keep the brake pads free from glaze and performance loss by glazing and buildup.
7) You can never go wrong with OEM products. If treated and bed in correctly, the average user will receive many miles of trouble free operation under normal use.
Just a few tidbits from an old dude!
:lookout:
Bottom line;
1) Not every customer needs high end brake parts.
2) One should never buy cheap quality components. You get what you pay for.
3) The only reason to buy brake parts is to make your vehicle stop when YOU want it to. So, if you are going to replace components, use at least what came on the vehicle exactly, or hey, if there is a chance of making your vehicle safer by allowing it to stop shorter, which could be the difference of hitting something or someone or not, so why not.
4) There are many options out there, again, its really comes down to budget,your uses, and increasing the potential safety of your vehicle.
5)Cross Drilled rotors on a stock brake package loses around 11% of braking surface material. I rarely sell cross drilled, but when I do its for the slow rock crawler guys. The cross drilled helps remove heat buildup. The slow speeds of rock crawling doesnt allow enough airflow to the rotors which lead to warping, so thats where cross drilled comes in handy. Tpyically, if Cross Drilled are used in other than a stock vehicle, the caliper and rotor size usually increases to compensate for the loss of material.
6) I use Slotted for towing, and fast/spirited driving. Slotted loses maybe 3% of material. While this is a loss, its a positive in the way the slots help draw heat out, cooler air in and helps keep the brake pads free from glaze and performance loss by glazing and buildup.
7) You can never go wrong with OEM products. If treated and bed in correctly, the average user will receive many miles of trouble free operation under normal use.
Just a few tidbits from an old dude!
:lookout:
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Tooltime19
New member
I forgot to add. Centric make the awesome Slotted Rotors I run in all my stuff.
lcbjr77
New member
Was that the Z36 kit?
I second vote for Powerstop rotors and pads. Don't use OEM as others suggest. There is no comparison and no going back once you try PowerStop brake kits. Huge difference in materials, finish, performance and cost. None for OEM win, seriously.
