Retained Accessory Power To Radio - Do 3rd Gens Have It?

[jbrentd]

Got a question about Retained Accessory Power (RAP). For those that don’t know what it is or if it goes by another name, I’m using the term to refer to the power source that supplies the power to the accessories (like the power windows) after removing the key from the ignition until you open the door.

Is the RAP supposed to power the radio too, like in many other cars?

My 4Runner came with an aftermarket radio and it does not stay on. I’m asking because I have a newer aftermarket radio going in soon and I would like to make sure I tap in to the RAP power source...if it’s supposed to work for the radio.

Thanks
Brent

 

[superman786]

My radio turns off once I turn the ignition off. I believe only the powered windows remained power for something like 30 seconds. And if my headlights were on, they stay on as well, until I open the door.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

No; 3rd gens don't use RAP for the head unit.

 

[jbrentd]

OK, thanks guys. Just didn't want to miss out on a potential feature.

 

[TheDurk]

My radio turns off once I turn the ignition off. I believe only the powered windows remained power for something like 30 seconds. And if my headlights were on, they stay on as well, until I open the door.

Yep, and those functions are internal to the Body-ECU or the Combination Switch, respectively. You could tap the POWER relay output for your HU key-on power if you really wanted to. Give me your year and I'll tell you how.

What's the advantage, other than 30 seconds more tunes? Is it for elaborate power down routines, like folding a screen away?

 

[jbrentd]

Yep, and those functions are internal to the Body-ECU or the Combination Switch, respectively. You could tap the POWER relay output for your HU key-on power if you really wanted to. Give me your year and I'll tell you how.

What's the advantage, other than 30 seconds more tunes? Is it for elaborate power down routines, like folding a screen away?

If it's only for 30 seconds, I really don't see the need either. I think it occurred to me because I installed an aftermarket radio in my son's car recently and his car kept the accessories going for several minutes (or more...not sure how long). I drove his car today and remembered to ask this question this morning, after getting to work. After I shut down the car, I was able to continue listening to a podcast.

 

[phattyduck]

If it's only for 30 seconds, I really don't see the need either.

Its for 30 seconds or until a door opens. Even less useful.

Nice to allow the windows to close while you are pulling the key out, but that's it.

-Charlie

 

[TheDurk]

If it's only for 30 seconds, I really don't see the need either. I think it occurred to me because I installed an aftermarket radio in my son's car recently and his car kept the accessories going for several minutes (or more...not sure how long). I drove his car today and remembered to ask this question this morning, after getting to work. After I shut down the car, I was able to continue listening to a podcast.

Depends on how bad you want it....

Retained ACC Power w/ Headlight & Dome Light Control

$200 ??

 

[jbrentd]

Depends on how bad you want it....

Retained ACC Power w/ Headlight & Dome Light Control

$200 ??

All nice things to have, but not worth the $$ or wiring effort...IMO

 

[Bad Luck]

This is the closest thread I could find without creating a new thread so I'll start here and see if I can get some wiring assistance.

The aftermarket head unit I have loses bluetooth connection everytime I start my 4Runner when going from accessory(ACC)/on (IGN1) power. Probably common for everyone's radio to turn off while cranking, but I want mine to stay on. I'll attach the wiring diagram that I'm referencing.

I've determined that the radio on power comes from the 15A ACC fuse which gets it's power from from the ignition switch when the ignition switch is in the ACC and IGN1 position. In order to power the 15A ACC fuse I could wire in a diode between IGN1 (B-Y wire from ignition switch that still receives power while in the ST position) and ACC (L-R at ignition switch). The diode would keep the IGN1 circuit from powering on when the key is in the ACC position.

Can anyone with more technical wiring knowledge than I confirm this would work or suggest a better way?

 

[jbrentd]

I don’t really know the answer to your question, but I believe what you are looking for is the non-load reduction circuit (at least that what it’s called in the Audi world). In other words, the circuit that still gets voltage while cranking the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

I don’t really know the answer to your question, but I believe what you are looking for is the non-load reduction circuit (at least that what it’s called in the Audi world). In other words, the circuit that still gets voltage while cranking the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IG1 and IG2 both get voltage when in the run and crank position, but the ignition switch doesn’t have a circuit with power in the accessory, run, and crank position.

I guess I didn’t include what the ignition positions power. Accessory powers ACC, run powers ACC/IG1/IG2, and crank powers IG1/IG2/ST2.

 

[shadow247]

IG1 and IG2 both get voltage when in the run and crank position, but the ignition switch doesn’t have a circuit with power in the accessory, run, and crank position.

I guess I didn’t include what the ignition positions power. Accessory powers ACC, run powers ACC/IG1/IG2, and crank powers

Amazon.com: Directed Electronics Inc 528T 12v Accessory Pulse Timer : Everything Else

Might try using a 12v timer for the ACC connection to the radio. It can keep power on for 0-60 seconds after the power is cut, which would solver your power interruption issue. We installed these on high powered stereos back in the day to keep the amps from voltage spiking with the radio rapidly turning on/off during the ignition cycle.

 

[Bad Luck]

IG1 and IG2 both get voltage when in the run and crank position, but the ignition switch doesn’t have a circuit with power in the accessory, run, and crank position.

I guess I didn’t include what the ignition positions power. Accessory powers ACC, run powers ACC/IG1/IG2, and crank powers

Amazon.com: Directed Electronics Inc 528T 12v Accessory Pulse Timer : Everything Else

Might try using a 12v timer for the ACC connection to the radio. It can keep power on for 0-60 seconds after the power is cut, which would solver your power interruption issue. We installed these on high powered stereos back in the day to keep the amps from voltage spiking with the radio rapidly turning on/off during the ignition cycle.

I've never heard of those before. I found this wiring diagram for it, but I'm not sure how to wire it for the radio application. Any recommendations?

https://www.donmar.com/Tech/DEI_528T_PulseTimerRelay.pdf

EDIT: Maybe follow the last wiring schematic they provide for a door switch?