"Return side" Throttle cable not moving

Friday88

New member
So today I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 4runner, and I've just got everything back together. I reinstalled the throttle cables just as they should be, and just as they were, but for some reason the "kickdown" cable has decided not to move.

I'll admit I'm not sure where this cable actually goes, as I'm more familiar with the throttle assembly on a carburetor (as on motorcycles). I've started the truck and everything seems fine, its just this one thing.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

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The title of this thread should be changed to "Kick Down cable not moving".

I've been trying to do more research on the issue and haven't found very much.
At least nothing that would explain how this cable could function fine one day, and stop functioning after being disconnected from the throttle body and moved around the engine bay. I tucked it off to the side near the battery while working on the valve cover gaskets.

I've learned that this cable is responsible for telling the transmission to downshift under heavy acceleration. I may try following it down to the transmission and possibly disconnecting it today.
 
Check if the outside protectant sheathing that covers the cable didn’t come undone at the crimp that holds it in place at the beginning of the assembly. My sheathing came out of the end crimp for one of my tailgate locks and it would not allow me to open the rear.
 
Check if the outside protectant sheathing that covers the cable didn’t come undone at the crimp that holds it in place at the beginning of the assembly. My sheathing came out of the end crimp for one of my tailgate locks and it would not allow me to open the rear.

It looks intact, but the rubber has torn. I'm going to disconnect the cable at the throttle body and try driving the truck to see if this is really something I need to get done in a hurry. Seems like I should be able to drive to work without this connected.

My concern is that something in the transmission might stopping it from moving, because it seems less likely that the cable itself could just freeze up.
This seems like it should be easy enough to replace, whatever it ends up being.

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I tried removing the cable from the transmission, and I couldn't get it off. I placed a flat head screw driver under the plastic and gently pried, but it didn't seem to want to move.

I took the truck for a drive around the neighborhood and it shifts up and down as expected, but it does idle quite high when I put it in park. around 2,000 rpm.
 
I tried removing the cable from the transmission, and I couldn't get it off. I placed a flat head screw driver under the plastic and gently pried, but it didn't seem to want to move.

I took the truck for a drive around the neighborhood and it shifts up and down as expected, but it does idle quite high when I put it in park. around 2,000 rpm.

600 RPM should be about ball park FSM says something like 600 RPM +- 100 RPM once the truck is warmed up.

2000 RPM is way to high once warm. throttle body not fully closed? something going on with that?

but... the kickdown. I have replaced that cable 2x times now. it's a bugger. you have to drop the trans pan and the cable hooks into a spring loaded catch just like the throttle body spring loaded connects.

that is really weird? almost like it came unhooked inside the trans? that would be a serious bummer. be careful prying at it, also that 10mm holds it in place so you would have to take that 10mm bolt out. it's a very tight fit and it's plastic so you can snap it off pretty easy.
 
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600 RPM should be about ball park FSM says something like 600 RPM +- 100 RPM once the truck is warmed up.

2000 RPM is way to high once warm. throttle body not fully closed? something going on with that?

but... the kickdown. I have replaced that cable 2x times now. it's a bugger. you have to drop the trans pan and the cable hooks into a spring loaded catch just like the throttle body spring loaded connects.

that is really weird? almost like it came unhooked inside the trans? that would be a serious bummer. be careful prying at it, also that 10mm holds it in place so you would have to take that 10mm bolt out. it's a very tight fit and it's plastic so you can snap it off pretty easy.

I think I was being paranoid about the idle... I think the truck hadn't fully warmed up yet, it just seems louder because I had the hood off from the work I did earlier.

I did notice today when I drove it with the cable off, that the throttle pedal was much easier to press than normal. I think this cable has been giving resistance, and taking it off the throttle body must have given it what it needed to quit all together.

Is it safe to drive without this kick down cable connected? From what I understand it firms up shifts as well as controls the downshifts for hard acceleration. I cant drain the transmission and remove that pan for the next few days, or maybe even this week. I dont want to damage anything in the transmission though.
 
I think I was being paranoid about the idle... I think the truck hadn't fully warmed up yet, it just seems louder because I had the hood off from the work I did earlier.

I did notice today when I drove it with the cable off, that the throttle pedal was much easier to press than normal. I think this cable has been giving resistance, and taking it off the throttle body must have given it what it needed to quit all together.

Is it safe to drive without this kick down cable connected? From what I understand it firms up shifts as well as controls the downshifts for hard acceleration. I cant drain the transmission and remove that pan for the next few days, or maybe even this week. I dont want to damage anything in the transmission though.

let me first say I'm not a transmission expert. I understand how things work in general and somebody might come along and correct me but...

I do know that the cable connects to a cam and that somehow works with the throttle body of the transmission. somehow it knows when the load is enough and downshifting is needed going up hills or when towing heavy loads.

so I would have to guess it's kind of important but not critical.

I can't image it would destroy your transmission overnight. just probably fix it sooner than later.

the fact that the cable is seized in place kind of strange? so just replacing the cable will not fix the issue if it's not just the cable. if that cam is messed up then it's a much bigger issue for sure.

3552035190 CABLE ASSY, THROTTLE 47.87$

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Does anyone have a picture of what this looks like with the trans oil pan off? I'm going to try again tonight to get the cable off the transmission, but I'm thinking its seized somewhere inside.

On another note, the throttle is very easy to push now, and its lovely to drive lol
 
I've heard from several people that it's more of a line pressure control than a downshift control. I was experiencing very firm shifts, disconnected that cable and noticed much smoother shifts at the same rpm range. Hooked the cable back up and added slack to it. No problems since then.
 
I've heard from several people that it's more of a line pressure control than a downshift control.
That is correct. It is line pressure control. Downshifting is ECU controlled. The 01/02 transmission use an extra solenoid for line pressure control (no cable to the trans).

It should be fine to drive without the cable connected, but line pressure may be low during hard accelerations. That might lead to trans slipping, etc.

The cable can't be removed from the transmission from the outside, as already mentioned on the thread.

Look for kinks and melted areas of that cable. It goes right by the header, and if it wasn't put in its heat shield/holder correctly, it could have gotten damaged.

-Charlie
 
Look for kinks and melted areas of that cable. It goes right by the header, and if it wasn't put in its heat shield/holder correctly, it could have gotten damaged.

-Charlie

Turns out the cable is seized in the sheathing. Not sure if it melted or was kinked or what.

I appreciate the information everyone.
 

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