Right Rear Clunk
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I have the toytec boss lift, basically radflo’s. When it’s cold out it feels and sounds like the truck is falling apart. I think it’s normal when you have solid mounts without rubber bushings. The fact that you only hear it on one corner, I would inspect the bolts and bushings for play. Then swap shocks passenger and driver and see if it follows.
nb rob
New member
stock shocks? What's the mileage on them?
aside from the shocks,
I'd start by inspecting the bottom bolt (72 lb ft) and the top bolt (18 lb-ft, but I just make sure there's 1/4" of thread beyond the nut on my rears). Next check the upper and lower links- 96 lb-ft for the rear lower trailing arm and panhard bar. I can't recall the upper link torque spec right now....
Peek at the KDSS swaybar bushings as well. Mine have held up surprisingly well.
as for the shocks, they are pretty easy to remove and inspect. look for signs of leaking, inspect the bushings top and bottom (or spherical bearing on the bottom, depending on what you have) and compress them with your body weight and see if they are smooth throughout the stroke length and return to length smoothly without cavitation on compression. If the shock needs replacement, it should be apparent. When reinstalling, you can use a ratchet strap to guide it back on the lower pin before guiding the bolt back in to place.
If you haven't yet replaced your stock shocks on a 2013, I would suspect them to be past their service life.
aside from the shocks,
I'd start by inspecting the bottom bolt (72 lb ft) and the top bolt (18 lb-ft, but I just make sure there's 1/4" of thread beyond the nut on my rears). Next check the upper and lower links- 96 lb-ft for the rear lower trailing arm and panhard bar. I can't recall the upper link torque spec right now....
Peek at the KDSS swaybar bushings as well. Mine have held up surprisingly well.
as for the shocks, they are pretty easy to remove and inspect. look for signs of leaking, inspect the bushings top and bottom (or spherical bearing on the bottom, depending on what you have) and compress them with your body weight and see if they are smooth throughout the stroke length and return to length smoothly without cavitation on compression. If the shock needs replacement, it should be apparent. When reinstalling, you can use a ratchet strap to guide it back on the lower pin before guiding the bolt back in to place.
If you haven't yet replaced your stock shocks on a 2013, I would suspect them to be past their service life.
FrenchToasty
New member
Lift gate latch?
Hybryd40
New member
I also have had a very annoying sound sound going over bumps and cracks in the pavement. It sounded internal so I had the wife drive as I tried to eliminate the noise in the rear. I found issue was with tailgate. I couldn't really find a way to adjust so I wrapped some tape around latch. No noise. Not sure if the Gobi ladder caused the issue or not. If anybody knows the proper way to adjust. That would be great. For now, my issue has been solved =)
FrenchToasty
New member
It must have been you or your thread I was reading. I know for a fact my lower ladder bracket makes or is in contact w my plastic bumper cover(I've tried to heat gun the area but it bounced back after a while) I have lots of noises going on inside my rig but not sure if that's one, I'll have to try some tape one day. Maybe the noise that i think is my rockers to sliders, is really just the gate
AND
New member
I too have this noise, sounds more like its from the lift gate. Sound like if the rear glass is loose or something.
Somebody, on another thread, suggested greasing the latch and that made it sound less loud but didn't completely solve the issue.
Might just take it to the dealership since its still under warranty because Its driving me insane!
Somebody, on another thread, suggested greasing the latch and that made it sound less loud but didn't completely solve the issue.
Might just take it to the dealership since its still under warranty because Its driving me insane!
