Roof Rack Math!

cp99sr5

New member
I was considering a Roof Top Tent but having read the threads on pro's, con's and installation, I have decided against it. Mainly because storing and mounting versus having to lug it everywhere otherwise. That said, I did have some questions on roof racks and wanted to ensure that I understand what I have read.

My factory rack is rated at 165 lbs which means the weight that the crossbars can safely support is 165 lbs. To be able to add more weight, I need to go with a different crossbar or multiple different crossbars, i.e. remove stock cross bars and replace with metal brackets that fit the side rails and maybe a unistrut or other metal for the cross bar and then use three of four of these instead of the two factory crossbars. When I do the above I could easily support a roof top tent and when camped, the two adults and some gear on the roof safely?

The roof is supposed to survive a rollover and hold the weight of the vehicle but it deflects at 300lbs, I think this means that the weight of the tent, people and gear could be higher that the 300 lbs as long as its distributed properly through the roof rack system as described above but put 300 lbs on any single point of the roof and it will start to buckle. So don't let a 300 lb person or animal stand on your roof?

Do I have the assumptions correct? Thanks - Chris
 
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I was considering a Roof Top Tent but having read the threads on pro's, con's and installation, I have decided against it. Mainly because storing and mounting versus having to lug it everywhere otherwise. That said, I did have some questions on roof racks and wanted to ensure that I understand what I have read.



My factory rack is rated at 165 lbs which means the weight that the crossbars can safely support is 165 lbs. To be able to add more weight, I need to go with a different crossbar or multiple different crossbars, i.e. remove stock cross bars and replace with metal brackets that fit the side rails and maybe a unistrut or other metal for the cross bar and then use three of four of these instead of the two factory crossbars. When I do the above I could easily support a roof top tent and when camped, the two adults and some gear on the roof safely?



The roof is supposed to survive a rollover and hold the weight of the vehicle but it deflects at 300lbs, I think this means that the weight of the tent, people and gear could be higher that the 300 lbs as long as its distributed properly through the rook rack system as described above but put 300 lbs on any single point of the roof and it will start to buckle. So don't let a 300 lb person or animal stand on your roof?



Do I have the assumptions correct? Thanks - Chris


I'm not 100% sure and can't safely back up all your research but it seems like you've read up a lot on it. I do know that the factory crossbars are not strong at all. It might carry 165lbs on a good day. I have a Yakima loadwarrior and I had a full size spare in it as well. Went down a road and started hearing a weird noise and noticed that both crossbars had snapped on one side. So whatever you do I would definitely get stronger aftermarket crossbars.
 
Thanks gclark, I am looking to beef up the cross bars, I also have a loadwarrior with the extension, what did you replace your crossbars with?

I was hoping to get ssome recoommendations on what parts/system has worked for others because though the RTT is out for now, I might later consider adding one on.
 
I wouldn't buy a roof top tent again. They are a pain because if you ever want to go anywhere or do anything it needs to be packed up...

As for the roof rack I would build a low profile one like I had on my 99'. They are really strong and really nice for mounting an RTT or other accessories.
 
I wouldn't buy a roof top tent again. They are a pain because if you ever want to go anywhere or do anything it needs to be packed up...

As for the roof rack I would build a low profile one like I had on my 99'. They are really strong and really nice for mounting an RTT or other accessories.

Interesting to hear your perspective. I remember you led the group buy.
 
As for the roof rack I would build a low profile one like I had on my 99'. They are really strong and really nice for mounting an RTT or other accessories.

MTD, I looked through your build thread and I see that you went from a low profile mount for your RTT to Thule bars it looks like and then mounted the RTT on a beautiful trailer. :humble:

Would you have a pic on how you made your low profile rack originally or any advice on what parts to use? I looked at Thule and Yakima systems and they are stronger but would not get me a lower profile. I also found a write up where someone used unistuts but I can't figure a way to get clearance because when I do what the instructions state, the curve of the roof hits the bottom of the unisturt.

Thanks -
 
We built a low profile rack for [MENTION=113639]Mgyver1[/MENTION] and his Howling Moon RTT. It's built out of 1" .065 tube and ties into the factory roof rack rails. He's got one run on it so far and seems to be happy with it. I'm sure he can speak up also.
 

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Thanks gclark, I am looking to beef up the cross bars, I also have a loadwarrior with the extension, what did you replace your crossbars with?



I was hoping to get ssome recoommendations on what parts/system has worked for others because though the RTT is out for now, I might later consider adding one on.


I replaced them with more factory crossbars just because I didn't want to fork out a lot of money for aftermarket ones. But I don't have the spare in it anymore. It's fine with nothing in the rack and the spare is going on the rear bumper when it finally gets here
 
MTD, I looked through your build thread and I see that you went from a low profile mount for your RTT to Thule bars it looks like and then mounted the RTT on a beautiful trailer. :humble:

Would you have a pic on how you made your low profile rack originally or any advice on what parts to use? I looked at Thule and Yakima systems and they are stronger but would not get me a lower profile. I also found a write up where someone used unistuts but I can't figure a way to get clearance because when I do what the instructions state, the curve of the roof hits the bottom of the unisturt.

Thanks -

nope, it was thule bars on 4Runner, they sucked so many rattles, to low pro roof rack, to minty bantam t3-c trailer. unistrut blows ass....

i have solidworks drawings and a pdf on how to build it. Another member has successfully built their own rack from it so i know it works. And unlike some people on t4r, cough, i offer the plans as open source for free.99 just let me get them uploaded when i get home monday and it should be a quick weekend project 4 ya.
 
Shoot I have a full setup for sale. Yakima wing riders crossbars, locks, and all. It's just sitting in the garage. I used it for my rocket box but the crossbars are hollowed aluminum and are aerodynamic so they are pretty darn quiet. I loved my wing riders.....but I went all out and built a full length rack and reinforced the roof.
 
Thanks everyone for the guidance.

MTD, I will look forward to seeing your plans, thank you very much for sharing, I am getting sidetracked already, been looking at trailers but have not seen a bantam yet, just some other military style trailers that look a lot larger.
 
Shoot I have a full setup for sale. Yakima wing riders crossbars, locks, and all. It's just sitting in the garage. I used it for my rocket box but the crossbars are hollowed aluminum and are aerodynamic so they are pretty darn quiet. I loved my wing riders.....but I went all out and built a full length rack and reinforced the roof.

How much for this setup?

Thanks -

Tom
 
Something I noticed when upgrading to Yakima crossbars - there was a distinct whistle / hollow sound at speed when the air would move around the bars over 50 mph. I bought the tapering attachments that snap over the bars and that would reduce the noise; but the round Yakima bars definitely made much more noise than the stock bars.
 

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