Rotors replaced. Wobbling Steering Wheel Again...

[cbr900boy]

I had this problem a while ago and I replaced front rotors and pads with Centric part rotors and matching pads about 15K miles ago. Maybe less.
Now I have the same issue when brake from 35-40mph speed. My steering wheel dances in my hands.
Is it possible for the rotors to be warped that fast again? Those Centric parts rotors had some Kryo coating on them, that supposedly resist all the warping for a long time.
Might it be a deeper issue then just rotors/pads?

I replaced my front rotors (Brembo Blanks) and pads (Toyota) on my DD. While braking, I got a little shimmy but got progressively worse. I thought to myself that there is no way new rotors would come warped from the factory. I had them turned and now it brakes perfect. Apparently, this is not uncommon.

 

[swampy_swimmer]

I'll jump in. When I bought my truck it shuddered. Put new rotors and pads and within a year they shuddered again. Installed TBU with oem pads rotors and napa calipers. Just installed second set of pads and been over year easy and they still feel like new.

I have had completely in adjusted rear drums. Never caused a shudder. Just pull to one side or other in hard braking.

Are you saying that the only way to get rid of suddering is to upgrade to Tundra's?
I think there's gotta be a reason for OEM 4Runner brakes to be doing that, and there has to be the way to fix it. I don't have ability to do this upgrade by myself and don't really want to spend extra to pay a mechanic (who might not even understand what he's doing) to completely replace the brakes.

 

[Buckaroo]

I do not have that ability, but shouldn't new rotors be measured this way and not then ones that wobble?

While it is likely the case that the rotors out of the box would be true (depending on the quality of the rotor), the issue is the mounting on the hub. The hub itself needs to be true and the surface of the hub needs to be cleaned of all corrosion and dirt so that the rotor sits absolutely flat against the hub. Also, you can take the extra step to "index" the rotor, rotating it around the hub and checking at each location (using the dial micrometer set-up shown) to minimize the runout - I think the general spec is less than 0.002" of variation. Don't forget to use several lugnuts with washers to snug the rotor down before checking. Also, if you are going to get the rotors turned, best to have it done on-car rather than on the bench so that this rotor/hub match-up issue is taken off the table.

Some good info on the root cause of rotors warping....
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/

Buckaroo

 

[JayRolla]

Are you saying that the only way to get rid of suddering is to upgrade to Tundra's?
I think there's gotta be a reason for OEM 4Runner brakes to be doing that, and there has to be the way to fix it. I don't have ability to do this upgrade by myself and don't really want to spend extra to pay a mechanic (who might not even understand what he's doing) to completely replace the brakes.

I just told you my experience with my truck and how i was able to stop the issue.

IMO its not the TBU that fixed my issue. It was the use of oem rotors/pads. I have had brake issues on many vehicles with crap part store pads and rotors. Even if you buy name brand you still dont get oem quality.

Again your issue may not be your front brakes. I would have to drive the truck to tell, but im pretty good at feeling out if the shudder is front or rear brakes.

 

[jeremyc74]

IMO its not the TBU that fixed my issue. It was the use of oem rotors/pads. I have had brake issues on many vehicles with crap part store pads and rotors. Even if you buy name brand you still dont get oem quality.

I know I sound like a broken record on this, but I'm going to say it again. :bash:

ALL the parts stores are in serious price competition with each other, and they've all started sourcing a lot of stuff from China (and other low labor cost regions). This is especially true of brake pads because of the environmental regulations involved in the compounds that make it more expensive to do here in the US even if the labor rate were the same.

I work in the auto parts manufacturing industry, and the quality controls on the OEM stuff are much more robust than anything the aftermarket could afford to do. Even if one set of rotors from a given supplier are great, that doesn't always mean the next set will be.

 

[nevada]

I replaced my front rotors (Brembo Blanks) and pads (Toyota) on my DD. While braking, I got a little shimmy but got progressively worse. I thought to myself that there is no way new rotors would come warped from the factory. I had them turned and now it brakes perfect. Apparently, this is not uncommon.

it is more common than it should be.

First let me say I do not know what is wrong with the OP's brakes.

I am, however, pretty sure the rotors are not physically warped. How am I so sure you ask? A certain amount of personal experience and then a lot from this article :

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

I do not take credit for finding that article, I most recently saw it posted by another member here (sorry, guy, I don't remember your name). I've also seen it a few other places related to performance driving.

I highly recommend everyone give this a read, it will give you a new perspective on the function of disc brakes.

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

yup. thanks for posting that.


you guys can call bullshit all you wont, it wont change reality.

I have seen this first hand. vehicle has very obvious pulsation, and steering wheel wobble. pull the rotors and chuck them up on the lathe, perfectly straight. do a very light surface cut, replace the pads and no more pulsations. nice and smooth braking.

I have even seen known warped rotors give smooth braking. the pad material is more of a problem.