Rubegoldberg's 3rd gen build

yup, running boards will happen soon, just been lazy about it and worried that the nuts will be seized on pretty hard.

I sold the front bumper to a guy on CL who rebuilds 3rd gens that were insurance writeoffs, and he is interested in the running boards for about 100 bucks, Local fab shops charge around 350 for rock sliders installed, selling the running boards that only ends up at 250, which is really reasonable

Lift kit and bigger tires with offset rims are on the horizon soon too. I'm thinking 32 inch duratracs so i dont have to regear.

I'm running 285/75/16 Duratracs and didn't have to re-gear. Very pleased with them so far, on and off road.

Snorkel looks great btw. I've got one but am still working up the nerve to start cutting holes in my rig.
 
one problem with my new bumper is that top angled edge catches the light and throws my iphone off, not showing the proper angles in photos, a shitload of mud and the right sunlight finally let me capture how sexy this bumper is (again if you can weld, it cost me 125 usd for bandit's extremely detailed instructions and another 200 for the plasma cut metal)


sAGxfkG.jpg
 
one problem with my new bumper is that top angled edge catches the light and throws my iphone off, not showing the proper angles in photos, a shitload of mud and the right sunlight finally let me capture how sexy this bumper is (again if you can weld, it cost me 125 usd for bandit's extremely detailed instructions and another 200 for the plasma cut metal

Sorry for a noob question but is that $200 for the already cut metal pieces?
Or the metal was purchased from somewhere else and the $200 was to have a shop cut it?

The Bandit bumper is one sexy beast!
 
Sorry for a noob question but is that $200 for the already cut metal pieces?
Or the metal was purchased from somewhere else and the $200 was to have a shop cut it?

The Bandit bumper is one sexy beast!


200 including metal, i just called local plasma cutting places, mailed the files and waited for quotes.
 
finally got around to removing the running boards, i stripped a couple bolts, so i had to take it in to a shop (****ing apartment living)

While i was under there, i noticed the transfer case is gonna need its seal replacing, hopefully its not low on gear oil, because i'll want to go wheeling before i get it fixed. (i'll have to research more)

Also got the light bar installed this weekend and removed the plastic rock guard on the hood.

9AjxrYB.png


Bonus pic from Jones Lake, decided to have a bbq on the beach

Tc9MHsE.png



next mods will be a full length roof rack and hopefully lift and 285/75/16s by mid summer
 
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went wheeling above stave lake here in B.C today.

I really can't wait to get a lift and tires installed. Although I may hold off until I get some practical mechanical jobs done on the truck first.


SFDSiZb.png
 
Bumper is painted (sorta, I need to do another layer of POR-15 and then a topcoat)

Installed the hilux 167 snorkel today. I used a hole saw 1 size bigger than listed here on the forum thread about them. I feel it hopefully led to the tighter fit overall.

When doing the template, i just wrapped some paper around the snorkel, taping it in place. I then poked holes and put the snorkel on the truck.. once on the truck, I carefully removed the tape holding the paper to the snorkel and taped it to the truck. It ended up fitting like a glove without much effort.

kGJ5S1l.jpg

I'm probably gonna install my snorkel tomorrow. When you say you used a hole saw one size bigger, did you use a 3" 11/16? (3 5/8 was the size the snorkel mod OP suggested)
 
I'm probably gonna install my snorkel tomorrow. When you say you used a hole saw one size bigger, did you use a 3" 11/16? (3 5/8 was the size the snorkel mod OP suggested)

I'll search for the saw and grab the specs,

Another thing I did which helped was when customizing the template to the 4runner, i taped the bottom of the template to the snorkel, pulled it tight, poked the drill holes.

then I put the snorkel on the truck and taped down the top part of the template that i was holding tight with my hand, then undid the tape holding the bottom of the template to the snorkel. removed the snorkel, taped the bottom part to the truck and drilled.

this lined everything up way better than the methods shown, because the holes are lined up exactly where the snorkel looks good on the truck, instead of playing a measuring game. (i hope that text description makes sense)
 
Been awhile since an update.

i had a full length roofrack fabbed for up top, and just had my lift installed.

Lift is tundra 5100's up front with toytech springs (couldnt get trd springs with the canadian dollar the way it is)

and lc 8 wraps in the back with 5100s.

the rake is honestly quite shitty IMO, i'll see how it settles and maybe re-do the front lift so that its on the 2nd or 3rd perch instead of the 1st.



pics are before and after.
o3sJ9lW.jpg


LCKNTNa.jpg
 
Really loving the new lift and tires so far, the truck was starting to look funny with the snorkel, plate bumper, light bar and full length roofrack on sagging stock suspension,


the lift and tires really made it all pop


next mods/work to do:
1. finally install trans cooler.
2. respray fender flares with rustoleum instead of the duplicoat crap i used that is now showing issues. also repaint front bumper.

3. time belt when funds allow, going to buy the kit cheap and find a cheap mechanic who'll work for cash
4. smittybilt or ARB awning.
5. mount the hi-lift i have in the trunk currently.
6. definitely last on the list, but full size spare and rear tire swing-away bumper.
7. this was meant to be higher up, but also retrofits. I have some clear headlights sitting in my office, and i just pulled the hid system out of my camry, so i have the ballast kit to use.




3rz2bEX.png
 
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Just installed a retrofit. was honestly way easier than I thought. I used a h4 adapter which lined up the projectors perfectly on its own. no need for any heavy drilling or tedious aiming.

lv4yUdg.jpg
 
Is your rack attached towards the front or the truck or just in the back to the factory spots?

At the factory spots in the back, and then has metal feet with rubber pads towards the front based on what the fab shop guy recommended.

It is actually pretty sturdy. Once I get some space to weld i'll probably make it again myself using tube metal and make it look somewhat closer to a gobe rack.
 
Just installed a retrofit. was honestly way easier than I thought. I used a h4 adapter which lined up the projectors perfectly on its own. no need for any heavy drilling or tedious aiming.

lv4yUdg.jpg

Looks great!
Are those the Morimoto Mini H1's?
 
At the factory spots in the back, and then has metal feet with rubber pads towards the front based on what the fab shop guy recommended.

It is actually pretty sturdy. Once I get some space to weld i'll probably make it again myself using tube metal and make it look somewhat closer to a gobe rack.

Cool, thanks. I like the low profile, debating about building one similar.
 

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