Sagging 3rd-gen Toyota 4-Runner rear door hatch struts lift supports

[enginelover]

Have you replaced your 4-runner's sagging rear hatch lift supports?
They're all about the same price but it's a long term decision so I don't want to make mistakes.

Are they all equivalent to the expensive OE Toyota lift supports?
Or are some much better than others (or more important, much worse)?

Which of these from CARID would you recommend I get and why?

• $42/set RhinoPac - StrongArm Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn4645110052
• $23/set Atlas Lift - Driver and Passenger Side Liftgate Lift Support Set Item # mpn4752221854
• $28/set Atlas Lift - Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn4725321940
• $29/set Tuff Support - Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn4776562262
• $54/set StrongArm - Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn4508854694
• $45/set TruParts - Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn4816878014
• $26/set Monroe - Max-Lift™ Liftgate Lift Support Item # mpn736017

 

[Ted02]

OEM supports have come way down in price. Still not as cheap as the those on your list, but they do come with the brackets and bushings. Usually the bushings need replacing as well, so no having to make your own like on the aftermarket lifts.

My aftermarket lifts lasted about 1 1/2 years, before buying new OEM’s from my Toyota dealer about two months ago. Unless OEM’s become discontinued or skyrocket back up in price, I will never go back to the aftermarkets!

 

[Gearhead4]

I also need replacement rear lifts. Anyone want to post up the OEM part # for them?

 

[Pyral]

I bought some replacement hatch struts for my 4runner about 2 months ago. This forum favors the Strongarm 6815 which is suppose to be much stronger than the stock ones, the Strongarm 4286 is suppose to be the equivalent to the stock Tokico (I think thats who made them for Toyota).

I went with the Tuff Support out of curiosity, I still haven't fit them, but I can put my weight on them and they wont compress. So they seem quite stiff. The stock Toyota ones are usually quite expensive, like over 100$

 

[heat]

$46 at the moment for OEM.

 

[Ted02]

I also need replacement rear lifts. Anyone want to post up the OEM part # for them?

Here ya go:

Can be tricky looking up the numbers on some Toyota dealer’s websites. Some don’t use the dash in the number. May be easier to input “hatch lift support” and match the numbers up from there. That was my experience. Or just google the number!

 

[Brian.]

I have the 6815's, installed since June 2019. They were Overly powerful for the first year, like knock your teeth out/crack your jaw if you were the Least bit slow at getting the F outta the way when it opened. My ~120lb wife could Almost hang off the back when lifted without it closing. It's overkill unless you have something else heavy on the hatch, like a tire.

After the first year it softened up some and wasn't Quite the danger to self when opening, and when cold (ish, I'm in Georgia after all) it acted totally reasonably.

Entering the 3rd year now and it's still got the umph to make you hurt if you don't get out of the way when it pops open, and it Absolutely still wants to jump open, but closing is now reasonable for my wife.

Based on how these have degraded so far, I'd estimate a 5~7 year usable life before they start drooping, might be longer. I'm not sure I'd buy them again (the 6815's), just overkill for a stock vehicle with nothing on the hatch. No complaints about the build quality, and honestly the bushing thing is a non-issue to anyone who can change their own oil.

 

[Endlessblockades]

$46 at the moment for OEM.

Each, right? That's a lot to get the OEM bushing things.

 

[heat]

Yes, each.

 

[Boognish_Forever]

Here ya go:

Can be tricky looking up the numbers on some Toyota dealer’s websites. Some don’t use the dash in the number. May be easier to input “hatch lift support” and match the numbers up from there. That was my experience. Or just google the number!

So with these all you have to do is unbolt the brackets and put the new ones on? I notice some aftermarket ones you have to pop the snap ring off to replace it.

 

[Skulking]

So with these all you have to do is unbolt the brackets and put the new ones on? I notice some aftermarket ones you have to pop the snap ring off to replace it.

The OEM struts use E Clips to hold things together. The aftermarket options just reuse the OEM bushings etc. including the E Clips.

 

[enginelover]

The OEM struts use E Clips to hold things together. The aftermarket options just reuse the OEM bushings etc. including the E Clips.

I'm confused.
Can someone who has bought the parts clarify which strut supports come with these "bushings" and "eclips" that people are talking about. Are these bushings and eclips on the top or bottom of the hatch strut connections?

I can't see any bushings or clips in mine which I think are the original hatch supports.

 

[Brian.]

I'm confused.
Can someone who has bought the parts clarify which strut supports come with these "bushings" and "eclips" that people are talking about. Are these bushings and eclips on the top or bottom of the hatch strut connections?

I can't see any bushings or clips in mine which I think are the original hatch supports.

Your bushings are gone (get a little clunk and movement if you push up on the gate when it's up?, that's what the bushing eliminates), and the e-clip is clearly visible on the top photos, the side with the 2 mounting bolts that hold the bracket to the hatch.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/190644-rear-lift-strut-bushing-fix-$1-15-a.html

That's the cheap fix most do for the bushings.

 

[snydmax]

I'm confused.
Can someone who has bought the parts clarify which strut supports come with these "bushings" and "eclips" that people are talking about. Are these bushings and eclips on the top or bottom of the hatch strut connections?

I can't see any bushings or clips in mine which I think are the original hatch supports.

E-clip holds the pin in place... one for each of the 4 pins... top and bottom of each strut... be careful they will shoot a long ways and be gone forever!

Your bushings are shot... can’t take credit for the idea, but the bushing can be made from plastic cylinders available at the big box store.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ted02]

So with these all you have to do is unbolt the bracketsw and put the new ones on? I notice some aftermarket ones you have to pop the snap ring off to replace it.

The OEM’s come completely assembled. All you have to do is unbolt the brackets from the car body and bolt the new ones in. No messing with e-clips or bushings. Making your own bushings for aftermarkets is no big deal, but these are as easy as they come. Sure these cost more, but you get the whole assembly, and I like how they have the correct amount of tension for lifting and closing the hatch.

 

[Skulking]

The OEM’s come completely assembled. All you have to do is unbolt the brackets from the car body and bolt the new ones in. No messing with e-clips or bushings. Making your own bushings for aftermarkets is no big deal, but these are as easy as they come. Sure these cost more, but you get the whole assembly, and I like how they have the correct amount of tension for lifting and closing the hatch.

I'm not aware of any struts which come with any sort of assembly required. To reiterate, the OEM struts use E Clips and pins. THEY DO NOT USE BOLTS.

 

[Ted02]

I'm not aware of any struts which come with any sort of assembly required. To reiterate, the OEM struts use E Clips and pins. THEY DO NOT USE BOLTS.

I’ll do my best to explain this more clearly.

Aftermarket struts do not come with the end brackets that bolt to the car body. At least none that I’m aware of. OEM struts do come with the brackets. The bolts that I am referring to, hold the brackets to the body and hatch of the car. When mounted, there are two of these bolts at each end of the strut assembly going through the brackets. With OEM struts, just remove these bolts at each end. Then do the same in reverse when mounting the new struts. The E clips, pins and bushings are not touched or removed because new ones are already part of the new OEM assembly.

This is a shot of one of the end brackets that requires your bolts to attach to the car. Photo is of my old aftermarket strut with OEM bracket still attached. I didn’t have to pull the E clip and pin to reuse this bracket, because the new OEM struts came as one complete assembly with brackets, right out of the package! Doesn’t get any easier than this!

 

[Boognish_Forever]

The OEM’s come completely assembled. All you have to do is unbolt the brackets from the car body and bolt the new ones in. No messing with e-clips or bushings. Making your own bushings for aftermarkets is no big deal, but these are as easy as they come. Sure these cost more, but you get the whole assembly, and I like how they have the correct amount of tension for lifting and closing the hatch.

Right on! Glad to hear that because the clips are rusty and don’t wanna mess with them. Worth the extra for the OEM. Thanks.

 

[TW44LR]

For what it’s worth I replaced mine with aftermarket, I believe it was the strong arm lighter duty and they are already sagging after less than a year and much more apparent now that it’s winter temps our, it will barely open it and holds it at like 2/3rd of the way open. I’ll check the label on them next time I’m out. I think I’ll just replace with oem and not deal with the washing bs and oem will probably last 10+ more years


Edit: as temps have gotten more colder these things have given up completely. They are the strong arm 4286 G-B

 

[Iffykid]

Strongarm 6815s going on 2yrs, I wanted the xtra lift for winter use as that usually were they shows sign of weaking first.
From the onset I did not experience the get out of the way smash your face type experience but they did require holding pressure while opening and extra effort to close.

After 2yrs use I would approximate they are still stiffer than OEM and I am perfectly happy with that as opposed to droopy weak struts and having to help or hold up the tail gate.