MN4RNR
New member
Back to the tutorial.
After the initial hole. It would look something like this.
Step 23.
Put the snorkel up to the car, tape it to the pillar if needed and verify that the fit against the car is as you desire. Once you have your final position trace the outline if it differs from your original markings.
Step 24.
Verify the bolt locations by installing the studs into the snorkel just finger tight.
Here is where what I did and what I would do next time differ.
Step 25.
I put a dab of wood glue, but another globby marking substance would work just as well, on the tip of each bolt, insert the pipe into the hole you just made in your truck. Line up the snorkel as desired and press the bolts against the tape to mark their location. Take the snorkel off and mark the holes with a pen/pencil.
What I might do different: Later in the process, once the holes were drilled I discovered that since the angles of the studs was not parallel the final resting place of the stud was not where the tip marked. Options would then be drill a bigger hole or do it one at a time and visually assess the angle and drill accordingly. Next time I would drill the holes one at a time. Starting at the front and working back. That way I could see the angle and drill to match versus drilling horizontally for all.
Step 26.
Fitting becomes an issue at this point. Some massaging of the holes will likely be required. I had to wallow out 3 of them to all the bolt to fully seat.
Step 27.
Using a friend or large wood clamps press the snorkel into position. Using the supplied large washers and nuts mount the snorkel.
Step 28.
Adjust the holes as needed.
Step 29.
Using a file, I used a chainsaw file, smooth out the holes.
Step 30.
I found it better to start at the bend of snorkel and work towards the front. Clamp. Install nut. Finger tighten. Add a clamp forward. Install nut. Finger tighten.
Step 31.
Once the body of the snorkel is basically installed I used this chance to heat and mold the snorkel to better fit the curve and the pillar.
Step 32.
My process was heating with heat gun. Once the plastic is slightly pliable bend and hold in position using a clamp. Use a wet cloth to cool the warm section faster. Repeat until satisfied with the placement.
Step 33.
Loosely screw the A-Pillar mount to the snorkel. On the back I place a couple of Command Strips.
Step 34.
Line up the snorkel, the pillar and the mount. Verify the rivets for the mount will not affect the windshield seal or anything else.
Step 35.
When you are happy with the placement, press the bracket against the pillar until the Command Strips stick. Remove the bolts and leave the bracket sticking to the pillar.
Step 36.
Remove the snorkel.
Step 37.
Mark the holes for the A Pillar rivets
Step 38.
Drill the appropriately sized hole for the rivets into the Pillar.
Note: The A Pillar is hollow. You only need to drill through the external layer. It SHOULD NOT go through to the inside.
Step 39.
Visualize the path from the snorkel tube to the air intake hose. On the wall of the engine compartment mark where you will need to cut a pass through. For me on the front end I went straight up the existing circle. To the rear side it was about 1/2" behind the circle.
Step 40.
Using a cutting wheel, cut the vertical edges and then the top connecting them.
CAUTION: Be aware of the electrical bundle just below where you are cutting. A guard of some sort would be prudent.
Step 41.
Test fit using the supplied hose. Adjust as needed.
Step 42.
Using a file, I used a chainsaw file, smooth the edges of all fresh cuts. The bolt holes, the big hole, cutout of the engine compartment and the rivet holes.
Step 43.
Once smooth, prime and paint all raw edges. I pulled back my tape from around the circles. I used tan, but the color won't be visible if containment is good.
Step 44.
Let it dry. Repeat.
Step 45.
Apply silicone around the rivet holes on the pillar and the bracket.
Step 46.
Using a pop-rivet gun, rivet the bracket to the Pillar.
Step 47.
Use Loctite to set the studs into the snorkel.
Step 48.
Apply liberal amounts of Auto/Marine silicone around the holes and around the mounting studs. Remove tape.
Step 49.
Re-attach the snorkel to the truck. After molding the first time. Reinstalling was much easier.
Step 50.
Tighten, heat, mold as needed until the final fit is satisfactory.
Step 51.
Using a 3" piece of black ABS connect the air hose from the air box to the pipe, then to the tube and finally to the snorkel. Use the provided silver hose clamps at each junction.
Note: It is a tight fit onto the pipe. Some lubricant will help.
Step 52.
Reattach the inner wheel well liner.
Step 53.
I used black silicone to seal the gap between the snorkel and the body. Others have used various weather stipping or halved tubing.
Step 54.
Place the head of the snorkel on and tighten down the black provided hose clamp.
Step 55.
I had a piece of foam that I used to file the space around the airline and the engine bay wall.
As a post thought. I noticed on the much more expensive offerings by ARB they describe the ram air effect of the snorkel head and the role the slits in the head of it play. The ARB offering has slits that go much higher and allow a space between the vertical pipe and the head. The Amazon version it seems it is merely to allow the head to be tightened onto the pipe. I extended those up until there was a visible gap. Does it do anything? No clue.
After the initial hole. It would look something like this.
Step 23.
Put the snorkel up to the car, tape it to the pillar if needed and verify that the fit against the car is as you desire. Once you have your final position trace the outline if it differs from your original markings.
Step 24.
Verify the bolt locations by installing the studs into the snorkel just finger tight.
Here is where what I did and what I would do next time differ.
Step 25.
I put a dab of wood glue, but another globby marking substance would work just as well, on the tip of each bolt, insert the pipe into the hole you just made in your truck. Line up the snorkel as desired and press the bolts against the tape to mark their location. Take the snorkel off and mark the holes with a pen/pencil.
What I might do different: Later in the process, once the holes were drilled I discovered that since the angles of the studs was not parallel the final resting place of the stud was not where the tip marked. Options would then be drill a bigger hole or do it one at a time and visually assess the angle and drill accordingly. Next time I would drill the holes one at a time. Starting at the front and working back. That way I could see the angle and drill to match versus drilling horizontally for all.
Step 26.
Fitting becomes an issue at this point. Some massaging of the holes will likely be required. I had to wallow out 3 of them to all the bolt to fully seat.
Step 27.
Using a friend or large wood clamps press the snorkel into position. Using the supplied large washers and nuts mount the snorkel.
Step 28.
Adjust the holes as needed.
Step 29.
Using a file, I used a chainsaw file, smooth out the holes.
Step 30.
I found it better to start at the bend of snorkel and work towards the front. Clamp. Install nut. Finger tighten. Add a clamp forward. Install nut. Finger tighten.
Step 31.
Once the body of the snorkel is basically installed I used this chance to heat and mold the snorkel to better fit the curve and the pillar.
Step 32.
My process was heating with heat gun. Once the plastic is slightly pliable bend and hold in position using a clamp. Use a wet cloth to cool the warm section faster. Repeat until satisfied with the placement.
Step 33.
Loosely screw the A-Pillar mount to the snorkel. On the back I place a couple of Command Strips.
Step 34.
Line up the snorkel, the pillar and the mount. Verify the rivets for the mount will not affect the windshield seal or anything else.
Step 35.
When you are happy with the placement, press the bracket against the pillar until the Command Strips stick. Remove the bolts and leave the bracket sticking to the pillar.
Step 36.
Remove the snorkel.
Step 37.
Mark the holes for the A Pillar rivets
Step 38.
Drill the appropriately sized hole for the rivets into the Pillar.
Note: The A Pillar is hollow. You only need to drill through the external layer. It SHOULD NOT go through to the inside.
Step 39.
Visualize the path from the snorkel tube to the air intake hose. On the wall of the engine compartment mark where you will need to cut a pass through. For me on the front end I went straight up the existing circle. To the rear side it was about 1/2" behind the circle.
Step 40.
Using a cutting wheel, cut the vertical edges and then the top connecting them.
CAUTION: Be aware of the electrical bundle just below where you are cutting. A guard of some sort would be prudent.
Step 41.
Test fit using the supplied hose. Adjust as needed.
Step 42.
Using a file, I used a chainsaw file, smooth the edges of all fresh cuts. The bolt holes, the big hole, cutout of the engine compartment and the rivet holes.
Step 43.
Once smooth, prime and paint all raw edges. I pulled back my tape from around the circles. I used tan, but the color won't be visible if containment is good.
Step 44.
Let it dry. Repeat.
Step 45.
Apply silicone around the rivet holes on the pillar and the bracket.
Step 46.
Using a pop-rivet gun, rivet the bracket to the Pillar.
Step 47.
Use Loctite to set the studs into the snorkel.
Step 48.
Apply liberal amounts of Auto/Marine silicone around the holes and around the mounting studs. Remove tape.
Step 49.
Re-attach the snorkel to the truck. After molding the first time. Reinstalling was much easier.
Step 50.
Tighten, heat, mold as needed until the final fit is satisfactory.
Step 51.
Using a 3" piece of black ABS connect the air hose from the air box to the pipe, then to the tube and finally to the snorkel. Use the provided silver hose clamps at each junction.
Note: It is a tight fit onto the pipe. Some lubricant will help.
Step 52.
Reattach the inner wheel well liner.
Step 53.
I used black silicone to seal the gap between the snorkel and the body. Others have used various weather stipping or halved tubing.
Step 54.
Place the head of the snorkel on and tighten down the black provided hose clamp.
Step 55.
I had a piece of foam that I used to file the space around the airline and the engine bay wall.
As a post thought. I noticed on the much more expensive offerings by ARB they describe the ram air effect of the snorkel head and the role the slits in the head of it play. The ARB offering has slits that go much higher and allow a space between the vertical pipe and the head. The Amazon version it seems it is merely to allow the head to be tightened onto the pipe. I extended those up until there was a visible gap. Does it do anything? No clue.
Last edited:
