Screwed up a Rear Diff Drain Bolt? Experiences?

[doofenshmirtz]

I ended up having to JB weld mine shut :nono:. All the wrenching I'd done on the drain bolt to try and remove it caused a leak to start. I got the steel reinforced two-part kind and filled the whole area and then capped it off with a solid washer. I taped the whole thing down for everything to set, and it's solid now. Tacky and embarrassing, but solid.

I pulled off the tape, cleaned up all the adhesive, sanded everything smooth, and sprayed some ZRC then high temp flat black to match the factory paint. Only a person working under my car would be able to spot the "repair."

I hate the fix, but at this point, I'm actively saving for full rebuild or a new axle. Not ~just~ because of this, but it's definitely a tipping point. I've got at least 30,000 miles to save up for it.

 

[metramm]

Do you have a picture of how the repair turned out? and maybe of the bolt?

Just curious is all.

Nice job on fixing it!

 

[doofenshmirtz]

Do you have a picture of how the repair turned out? and maybe of the bolt?

Just curious is all.

Nice job on fixing it!

I can take one this evening. Not much to "see" since it's all covered up, but I'll be down there anyway tonight to check on everything so it's no big deal to take a few shots while I'm there.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

Do you have a picture of how the repair turned out? and maybe of the bolt?

Just curious is all.

Nice job on fixing it!

I need to smooth out the cap a little more and go over with another coat of paint, but there she is in all her tacky glory.

Everything behind that cap is filled solid with JB Weld. (Something something rural Georgia.)

 

[4RunnerFan]

Anti-seize

FWIW, I change the gear oil in my T4R diffs every 30k miles (tow a boat). The first time getting the drain plug out is the hardest (factory tight), or at least it should be. Each time I do a change, I put anti-seize around the outside edge of the hole on the diff and also around the inside of the washer on the plug before reinstalling it. That helps a lot to resist rust, but the important thing is to torque it to spec (36 ft lbs on rear diff) and no tighter!!! Makes the job a lot easier going forward. Sorry to jump in like this, but thought it might help.

 

[Captsolo]

I did the rear drain plug on my 2005 4runner rear differential a few years ago. It was about the easiest job I ever did on the 4runner.

Just loosen both drain and fill plugs on the rear differential, drain the 3 old quarts of Valvoline lube, then refill with 3 quarts of new Valvoline lube 75W-90 - until it comes out the fill hole. DONE:

Took 15 minutes. No jack stands, just a socket wrench. I didn't use synthetic. I'll do it again with new Vavoline 90W in five to seven years.

I did mine at 140,000 miles, and the old lube oil was black (but looked good / new / amber color with the black). I'll do it again in 75,000 miles. You need a long handle ratchet, as the bolts are in there tight!

Two wheel drives don't have a front differential, so don't bother looking for one.:bluejump:

My feeling is that most people never change the differential fluids - ever! YouTube

The rear differential gear oil should be changed. You can lose a rear differential by never changing the gear oil.

I reused the old washers.

 

[y=mx+b]

Just loosen both drain and fill plugs on the rear differential, drain the 3 old quarts of Valvoline lube, then refill with 3 quarts of new Valvoline lube 75W-90 - until it comes out the fill hole. DONE:

I think he already knows how to do the job based on the posts. Only issue was the disorientation caused by being upside down

The rear differential gear oil should be changed. You can lose a rear differential by never changing the gear oil.

I think the fact that he made this post about changing the diff fluid is indication that he knows the fluid should be changed. Earlier he mentioned that even though the drain was stuck, he was able to pump 93 oz out. I think put a bit over 3 qts in when I changed mine, so to it looks like he got most of it out.