Seized cams but alignment "in-spec"

[CentcomPete]

Got new 275/70 KO2s yesterday and during the alignment the tech found my cams to be seized. Alignment specs are: camber near 0, caster 2.0L and 2.8R. Truck seems to ride fine on highway and street but it's only been a day.

If these alignment numbers are "in-spec" and the truck drives fine, should I be concerned about replacing the cams/bushings/sleeves. I know the alignment could be better if I replace them and have it re-aligned but I don't think the tires are at risk of wear issues. Right? Shop will re-align at no charge but I'd guess the parts/labor will be at least $250, maybe more.

 

[Texoma]

Parts alone will exceed your initial estimate. If you don't have KDSS, check out RockAuto for moog complete lowers. Then over to Amazon for Moog replacement greasable cams. I've cut quite a few lowers out and replaced with these. If you buy from Toyota, just one bushing and cam will exceed Moog's complete replacement. Labor will be somewhat high due to the fact you have to cut out the old lowers. If all four are seized, it will take roughly 2-3hrs for a competent mechanic to do the job. If you need any advice on the issue, feel free to contact me.

 

[enapa]

What are cams in relation to suspension? Only heard of the ones inside the heads.

 

[gm350reratliff]

If it drives good and the angles are in spec, I would just drive it. In the meantime, I would collect all the parts needed to replace them and have them on hand for the next time.

 

[1jzgte]

What are cams in relation to suspension? Only heard of the ones inside the heads.

I think its short for Camber bolts.

 

[RonJR]

No, it's short for "cam". The adjusting bolts in the LCA's have an eccentric washer (cam) on them that shifts the position of the LCA as the cam bolt is rotated. This allows adjusting both camber and caster. It's an interactive adjustment - the FSM has an intimidating graph of how to do it based on current and desired measurements so you can pretty much get it right the first time, but most alignment techs just fiddle with it until the values are acceptable. If the cam bolts (not the cams themselves) are frozen, no caster or camber adjustment is possible.

 

[CentcomPete]

Thanks for all the good info - think I will buy the parts myself and eventually go back to the shop who offered the free re-alignment. If it's in-spec and driving well then I will let it be for now.

 

[randomguy]

Don't forget "in spec" means stock suspension. Camber and toe will impact tire wear more so than caster so at least those sound good. Caster will be felt in the steering more than anything and I suspect your truck will probably pull or drift a little bit to the driver side due to the unequal caster.

If the cams are seized to the bushings in the lower control arms then they'll need to be cut off. Then the seized cam and bushing assembly will need to be pressed out of the LCA and new bushings installed. You'll need bushings and new cams. I personally would stick with OEM parts

Seized cams are pretty typical on a Tacoma, guess it shouldn't be too surprising it's an issue with the 4Runner. When I lifted my Tacoma I pulled the LCA cams and bolts and coated them in anti-sieze. My truck never saw salt or the beach and they were a little rusty but did not stick. I did give them a healthy dose of PB Blaster a couple times a year prior to the lift because I knew I'd get them eventually.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Don't forget "in spec" means stock suspension. Camber and toe will impact tire wear more so than caster so at least those sound good. Caster will be felt in the steering more than anything and I suspect your truck will probably pull or drift a little bit to the driver side due to the unequal caster.

If the cams are seized to the bushings in the lower control arms then they'll need to be cut off. Then the seized cam and bushing assembly will need to be pressed out of the LCA and new bushings installed. You'll need bushings and new cams. I personally would stick with OEM parts

Seized cams are pretty typical on a Tacoma, guess it shouldn't be too surprising it's an issue with the 4Runner. When I lifted my Tacoma I pulled the LCA cams and bolts and coated them in anti-sieze. My truck never saw salt or the beach and they were a little rusty but did not stick. I did give them a healthy dose of PB Blaster a couple times a year prior to the lift because I knew I'd get them eventually.

It's common on any vehicle that uses this type of Lower Control Arm set-up. Tundras, Tacomas, 4Runners, FJs, GMs, Fords, ect. It's just how they are.

In regards to the OP, the only issue I would have is that I like to have a bit negative camber since most aftermarket tires are much wider (with a proper chalk test for setting tire PSI and a good suspension this helps reduce premature outer edge wear that Toyota's have a tendency for), but more importantly your "cross caster" it out of spec, Toyota usually likes to call for less than .3 cross caster if I recall correctly. But if the vehicle isn't pulling to one side I wouldn't **** with it.

 

[SATSTRAIL]

If you are happy with how it drives don't mess with it at this point. I would rather have a lower caster number on the drivers side than the passenger side as this will help compensate for/will be canceled out by road crown built into most roads.