Shop won't align my runner...need parts

TXRick

New member
I installed my OME 3" lift over spring break and was ready to get it aligned. She has 264,000 miles on her so I was anticipating other suspension problems and more parts being replaced. My sister had the runner for several years and she told me she "had something" done to the front suspension a few years ago...thanks sis...
I took it to the shop and they told me they can't align my runner because it needs a new driver side lower ball joint and outer tie rod end, passenger side upper control arm bushings, and a whole new rack. They quoted me $755 dollars worth of parts and $400 labor to install the parts! I smiled and told them thank you for the diagnosis and paid them $20 for their trouble.

I've priced parts and it seems that I can get both upper and lower ball joints, all the UCA bushings, new outer tie rod ends, and new rack for about $650....then I return my core rack and get $200 back.

The OME lift gave me new coils and shocks and I figure I might as well change out everything I can on the front suspension...265,000 miles... The actual control arms and all the metal parts look good, so I'm about to order parts and by the end of it I will have a whole new steering/suspension system for the ol girl.

UCA bushings, LCA bushings, Upper ball joints, Lower ball joints, tie rod ends, new rack.

I've searched the site and I will be doing all the work myself. Am I missing anything? Anything else I need to replace while I've got it apart? Ordering parts today (beside rack, that's next paycheck)

Rick
 
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What about the rack did they say was bad? Maybe it just needs rack bushings? May as well do both the inner and outer tie rod ends. Sway bar bushings and end links? Have fun with those upper ball joints they are the worst or at least they were for me. Otherwise looks like you have a good list going. I just did all of these other than the new rack and made a huge difference and was able to get it aligned afterwards.
 
They didn't specify what was wrong with the rack. I read about the new bushings and thought that may be the way to go. I'll prolly take it apart and find out but I figured with 264,000 miles....might as well get a new one:) If I get a new rack they usually come with new inner tre.
 
Sound like the steering rack bushings. I would question there other diagnosis. Are they are reputitable shop? I have the same mileage and had the shop I bought my tires from check it over and they didn't find anything wrong when I suspected they would find something. They did say the steering could be tightened up a bit, but not necessary. My suggestion is get a second opinion before you spend that money.
 
Sound like the steering rack bushings. I would question there other diagnosis. Are they are reputitable shop? I have the same mileage and had the shop I bought my tires from check it over and they didn't find anything wrong when I suspected they would find something. They did say the steering could be tightened up a bit, but not necessary. My suggestion is get a second opinion before you spend that money.

Yeah, a second opinion is always good, but with 264,000 miles on it, the unpredictable way it drives, and my sister's expert diagnosis of "had something done to the suspension a few years ago," and how cracked and dry all the bushings and rubber pieces are...I'm sure most everything needs to be replaced anyways:)

Aren't there other things inside the rack that wear out and need replaced besides the bushings?
 

Thanks for the links. I hadn't seen the second one and looks like it will come in very handy:)

I am loving the front bumper. The only problem I see is that on my 96 it is only attached by 4 bolts. I think I am going to have to get a piece welded on to attach the other forward facing bolts, but it seems to be holding good for now.
 
If you decide on a new rack. Find your Steering shaft coupler and start PB Blasting it now along with the high pressure line fitting for the hydraulics (buy line wrenches if you don't have them) . These took me half a day to get undone. :pout:

I just finished doing the exact same front end rebuild you are describing and the truck feels much more predictable now. (On 3" TTec Utlimate and 285's)

Your list looks good. Check out some swaybar bushing from 4wheelers while you're under there. If you got the dough, you may be able to use a set of LR UCA's with new ball joints. I got my shipped fro ~$400. They are supernice.:usa2:
 
sawybar bushings: go to oreillys, auto zone, advance, etc. they all have "Energy" brand bushings that will fit.

bushings for steering rack: that coupled with new inner/outer tie rods should handle your problem w the alignment homies.

LBJ's are never a bad thing. and of course OEM only
 
Are they are reputable shop?

Well..I'm not saying they tore my boot, but it wasn't like that when I dropped it off...I don't think...

2uhtqv5.jpg


Other images...for y'alls scrutiny.

zyikon.jpg


That is a newer looking cotter pin so this has been taken of for some reason...

era9ok.jpg


25utcad.jpg


nyy6mp.jpg


25k5sts.jpg
 
Well..I'm not saying they tore my boot, but it wasn't like that when I dropped it off...I don't think...

2uhtqv5.jpg


Other images...for y'alls scrutiny.

zyikon.jpg


That is a newer looking cotter pin so this has been taken of for some reason...

era9ok.jpg


25utcad.jpg


nyy6mp.jpg


25k5sts.jpg

What OME coils are those?
 
If your steering rack isnt leaking badly, I'd just do the bushings. Aftermarket or rebuilt steering racks are not that good and will only last a couple years in my experience. If your OEM unit isnt leaking bad, dont replace it. You could do the updated rack guide, poly rack bushings, new inner/outer tie rods ends, and weld the steering shaft joint and I bet your steering will feel like new. If you have to replace the rack, I would go OEM or give these a shot: Safari LTD - Parts (New, Used Toyota, Lexus & Scion Parts)

I bought a "ToyotaSteering" rebuilt rack and installed it last year. It's on it's way out already... Sure it was cheap, but not worth replacing once per year or two.

FOR SURE replace the LBJ's with OEM units as that is a fairly common yet drastic failure for our trucks especially when lifted. With your mileage, and if your still on the stock LBJ's, I'd be replacing them ASAP.

The Control arm bushings are going to be a *****, so I've heard. If I were you, and your budget allows, I would replace the UCA's entirely instead of replacing the UCA bushings and Upper ball joint. For the time and effort on replacing those, you could buy Light Racing UCA's that come with new bushings and a replaceable upper ball joint that will give you more front wheel travel, for around $400.

Hope that helps.
 
Well..I'm not saying they tore my boot, but it wasn't like that when I dropped it off...I don't think...

2uhtqv5.jpg

That's not grease from the boot, that's just goop they spray on there to help break the cam adjuster bolts on the LCA's. I hate that stuff.

Like Rickashay said, it's not worth the hassle to deal with replacing bushings in the control arms. It's so much easier getting some aftermarket arms or finding some used arms in good condition. I bought some really great used LCA's for $100 here on T4R. UCA's would be much cheaper, I sold my old ones for $40 and they were in great shape. Just keep your eyes open in for sale sections on different forums and you can get some really good deals on partouts.
 
OK thanks guys.

I'm going with the light racing UCAs. Who has the best price on them. I've looked at toytec, but cant find them for sale anywhere else.
 
It will be much easier to put light racing UCA's in, they come with upgraded balljoints and new bushings... you will spend almost as much to rebuild the stock parts.
 
OK thanks guys.

I'm going with the light racing UCAs. Who has the best price on them. I've looked at toytec, but cant find them for sale anywhere else.

Fat Bob's garage has the best Light Racing prices I have ever seen. You have to ad them to your cart to get the "final" price. Toytec sponsors this forum though, and have always been great to deal with in my experience. AND, I heard they will price match if you call them and ask. Worth a shot.
 
Fat Bob's garage has the best Light Racing prices I have ever seen. You have to ad them to your cart to get the "final" price. Toytec sponsors this forum though, and have always been great to deal with in my experience. AND, I heard they will price match if you call them and ask. Worth a shot.

Yeah, I still haven't purchased them yet. I did see where metaltech did a group buy on them but they dont carry 3rd gens. Does Toytech do that? It seems like every time I buy something there is a group buy or a sale, except for the OME 3" lift. I missed that price increase buy about a week. lol

Good news though. I installed inner tie rods, outer tie rods, and the lower ball joints myself. I also installed the rack guide...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70884-how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures.html

Problems:

Bad out of alignment. The tires squeal all the time and it feels like the brake is on. I'm about to watch a at home alignment youtube video and try to straighten it out. Would this make it feel like the brakes are pressed a little?
I have a three inch OME lift, does anybody know the approximate number of threads showing on the TRE?

Third attempt at adjusting steering guide. First time too loose and almost uncontrollable and the last time too tight and the steering wheel wouldn't auto straighten at all.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I still haven't purchased them yet. I did see where metaltech did a group buy on them but they dont carry 3rd gens. Does Toytech do that? It seems like every time I buy something there is a group buy or a sale, except for the OME 3" lift. I missed that price increase buy about a week. lol

Good news though. I installed inner tie rods, outer tie rods, and the lower ball joints myself. I also installed the rack guide...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70884-how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures.html

Problems:

Bad out of alignment. The tires squeal all the time and it feels like the brake is on. I'm about to watch a at home alignment youtube video and try to straighten it out. Would this make it feel like the brakes are pressed a little?
I have a three inch OME lift, does anybody know the approximate number of threads showing on the TRE?

Third attempt at adjusting steering guide. First time too loose and almost uncontrollable and the last time too tight and the steering wheel wouldn't auto straighten at all.
FYI Every truck will be different re: threads showing
 

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