should I go with Toyota recommended service?

[ripplerat]

I purchased my '04 V8 Sport this past October. At the time of purchase it had 67,000 miles. Although I am the 3rd owner, it showed to be serviced regularly at a Toyota dealer and had no major issues. After I purchased the car I brought it to my local Toyota dealer and asked them to inspect it, as I was a new owner. They did a complimentary 27 point inspection and said that the car was in good order and did not recommend any service.

4 months later, I received a letter from the dealer to come in for my 70,00 mile check up. At that point the car had 69,000 miles. After doing a 27 point inspection, the mechanic made the following suggestions:

replace cabin filter 69.95
4 wheel drive service 234.95
power steering flush 119.95
brake flush 119.95
induction service 124.95
new battery 161.50

I found this ridiculous and asked why none of this was suggested in my original inspection. The service clerk said that it depended on the particular mechanic and how cautious they wanted to be. He said that no services were vital, but that it would be recommended to maximize the life expectancy of the car and that it could be staged over time. Regarding the battery, he said it tested fine, but given that it was the original, I should consider replacing it.

When I checked my owners manual, it indicated that all of these services are recommended at the 100,000 mile check up.

Which way should I go? Can I trust this Toyota Service Center?

Thanks.

 

[ripplerat]

bump

 

[DaveS]

The cabin air filter price is ridiculous - buy one online and install it yourself in seconds for probably 30 or less.

The TC and diff fluids should have been done already - if they have you would be better spending money on a tranny flush which should be 170-200 based on posts here.

No idea what an induction service is but if it means changing the air filter and cleaning the MAF sensor you can do that yourself in minutes for much less - search on this forum for instructions.

The brake and PS flushes might be worth doing at this point - they are trickier to DIY and the consequences of doing it wrong aren't worth it imho.

If you are on the original calipers I would consider paying 50-75 bucks to get them serviced to try to fend off the day they seize.

 

[DaveS]

Oh - and don't change that battery now we are amost out of winter. The OEM panasonic cannot be bought outside Japan - nothing available here gets near it. Get it checked going into next winter and consider it then.

 

[LodeRunner]

I'm not sure what "4 Wheel Drive Service" is, but if they're referring to changing the fluids in the transfer case and/or differentials, you can DIY for MUCH cheaper than that. It's an easy process that simply requires draining the old fluid and refilling with new.

The brake fluid flush is also easy to do with a $10 bleeder kit from Autozone and about $10 in brake fluid, too... Just need an extra person to pump the brakes for you while your manipulating the bleeder valve at each wheel and draining the old fluid.

Induction service - I'm assuming they're talking about cleaning the throttle body and MAF. This is very easy to do, and will cost you about $7 in cleaning fluid. Many links on here about how to do it.

Ditto on the rdiculous price on the air and cabin filter.... that's a no-brainer.

If the battery tested fine, then don't replace it. If it ain't broke don't fix it!

Bottom line: you can always save yourself money by doing it yourself. Just have to ask yourself if you want to spend the time doing it. As for those services being suggested given the mileage on your T4R... yeah, might make sense, but all depends on service history.

 

[KB084RUNNER]

My DIY prices:


replace cabin filter 69.95.........DIY $14
4 wheel drive service 234.95........DIY 7 qts Mobil175w90LS and crush washers = $85
power steering flush 119.95...I use a fluid extractor and drain fill reservoir with ATF $30 for extractor and $5 for 1 qt ATF
brake flush 119.95.......$15 for brake fluid
induction service 124.95.........$20 for air filter and CRC MAF sensor cleaner
new battery 161.50........$89-$110

 

[Carl_G]

That sounds good. So for the power steering fluid you just siphon out whatever is in there and replace it?

Could you please provide details on the pump you used. Thanks.

 

[nytefog]

That sounds good. So for the power steering fluid you just siphon out whatever is in there and replace it?

Could you please provide details on the pump you used. Thanks.

I used a tool like this for my diffs.

Suction Gun by Performance Tools - part# W54220

 

[<<<<]

I used a tool like this for my diffs.
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Isn't there a drain plug?

 

[DaveS]

I used a tool like this for my diffs.

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Isn't there a drain plug?

yes but the filler plug is in a spot where you cannot pour the replacement fluid in without pumping it - that's what the tool is for - you just need something that can pump the fluid through a hose into the fill hole.

 

[Hi-Fi]

I used a tool like this for my diffs.

Suction Gun by Performance Tools - part# W54220

I bought one of those suction guns from AAP, and it was a piece of C**P, didn't work at all. Maybe I got a bad one, but it went into the dumpster. I bought a syringe (100 cc I think) and stuck a piece of 1/8" clear plastic tubing on the tip and used that to suck the fluid out of the PS reservoir.

The syringe was about a dollar at the local American Science and Surplus store.

I'm re-filling it with Redline D4. I've done it several times now (a week apart) and the fluid is slowly turning from dark brown to red. I'm not sure what the PS fluid capacity is, but I'm about done with the bottle of D4 I bought. When it's emply I will probably leave it until next spring and repeat the process.

 

[nytefog]

I've had good success with the suction guns. I have done a few vehicles diffs with them. They are inexpensive so you get what you pay for.

 

[Carl_G]

I bought one of those suction guns from AAP, and it was a piece of C**P, didn't work at all. Maybe I got a bad one, but it went into the dumpster. I bought a syringe (100 cc I think) and stuck a piece of 1/8" clear plastic tubing on the tip and used that to suck the fluid out of the PS reservoir.

The syringe was about a dollar at the local American Science and Surplus store.

I'm re-filling it with Redline D4. I've done it several times now (a week apart) and the fluid is slowly turning from dark brown to red. I'm not sure what the PS fluid capacity is, but I'm about done with the bottle of D4 I bought. When it's emply I will probably leave it until next spring and repeat the process.

I'm doing the same thing. Eventually all the fluid will be new.

 

[KB084RUNNER]

That sounds good. So for the power steering fluid you just siphon out whatever is in there and replace it?

Could you please provide details on the pump you used. Thanks.

Here is what I use

Amazon.com: Motive Products Power Extractor Allows Easy Evacuation of Engine Oil, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid and other Fluids: Automotive