Sludge anyone?

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I had the 97 3.0 sludge engine in an Avalon and had no problem because I used Mobil 1 since new. This is another reason why I believe in high quality synthetic motor oil.

Koz
 
Good article. So many people are going away from the 3,000 mile oil change. It is like it is a exception, instead of the rule.

Also, the article said keep records, even if you do it yourself. I keep a book in the glove compartment, but I have NEVER met anyone else who does that, besides me of course.

My last comment is, on the thread about oil changes, about 1% of the members NEVER change the oil. Who are these people? Can they post their VIN numbers so we know never to buy their vehicle?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=674
 
I think most people are too young to remember when gas had lead in them. The switch to unleaded caused the same problems. Unleaded caused the engines to burn OVER 100 degrees hotter. Some oils like QuakerState failed miserably. Others like Castrol had no problems. These oil companies had to change their formula to account for the added temps.

A side note before all you QuakerState lovers send hate mail...QuakerState does NOT have this problem anymore. Their oils are as good or better then MOST oils out there.
 
MikeInNH said:
I think most people are too young to remember when gas had lead in them. The switch to unleaded caused the same problems. Unleaded caused the engines to burn OVER 100 degrees hotter. Some oils like QuakerState failed miserably. Others like Castrol had no problems. These oil companies had to change their formula to account for the added temps.

A side note before all you QuakerState lovers send hate mail...QuakerState does NOT have this problem anymore. Their oils are as good or better then MOST oils out there.
About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam. It was Quaker State oil. Ever since then, I have been using Castrol GTX. (Except when I use synthetic oil.) I know that Quaker State may be better now, but that incident really turned me off for good.
 
What's important to know is that if you have an engine that is known to be really tough on oil, you would want to use quality synthetic oil. This is why you will see many turbo engines requiring synthetic. There are several reasons why synthetic oils don't sludge as easy as dino. The main reason is because the oil is not refined (no wax) and the additive package usually has more/better quality anti-sludge chemicals added.

Note; If you have sludge in your engine, be careful what oil you use. Very good group IV/V synthetic oil could cause havoc by dissolving the sludge. There are special additives (such as Auto RX http://www.auto-rx.com/) that can remove the sludge safely. You would use the additive for a short period (such as 500 miles) with cheap dino oil several times until it is clean. Then you could use the quality synthetic.

Koz
 
peter78 said:
about 1% of the members NEVER change the oil. Who are these people? Can they post their VIN numbers so we know never to buy their vehicle?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=674
Yea really!

I just had an oil changing bonanza in my driveway last weekend. I changed the oil in 3 of my four vehicles and also had a co-worker come over with his Jeep for an oil change. I buy Liquid Tide that is available in 2.65 gallon containers that I use for the waste. The re-cycle center, in my township, accepts all vehicle fluids.

When I flushed the tranny in my Jeep I went thru a case of ATF. That was fun.

Does anyone remember setting the point-gap with a book of matches?
 
Does anyone remember setting the point-gap with a book of matches?

I was high tech and used a feeler gauge. Threw out my dwell meter and and timing light sometime in the 90's.
 
I think most people are too young to remember when gas had lead in them. The switch to unleaded caused the same problems. Unleaded caused the engines to burn OVER 100 degrees hotter.

I remember seeing leaded for sale in Arizona around 1995. The problem created with unleaded was not with temp but a lack of lubricity that leaded created for the valves. This is why states with old cars like AZ had a leaded gas demand and therefore available until completely EPA mandated out, I want to say in 1996 reaching way back into my fuel systems memory. Could be wrong - but not worth researching :)
 
About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam.

Hmmm, that doesn't sound heat related. I would have guessed that the oil is overfilled and the crank throws are whipping up the oil.

I guess I better leave this thread alone now :)
 
I think the driving you do can have a big effect on sludge for ex. my Dodge Durango had no sludge after 80,000 mi after replacing the oil pan gasket. That was running Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil. I was shocked as to how cleen the inside of the oil pan was. That was with 6K oil and filter changes.

This is why I do the same on my 06 4runner Penz-Platinum and new filter every 6K.
 
peter78 said:
About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam. It was Quaker State oil. Ever since then, I have been using Castrol GTX. (Except when I use synthetic oil.) I know that Quaker State may be better now, but that incident really turned me off for good.

Many oils from the 80's had a foam problem under high heat. I had a Pontaic Fiero that would run real hot and would foam the oil quite good until I started to use Mobil 1 15w50 and I then had no more foam problem.
 
jeober said:
I was high tech and used a feeler gauge. Threw out my dwell meter and and timing light sometime in the 90's.
:clap: I used to do that with my 77' Yamaha RD400!
No need on the 84' RZL 350 KR in my shed- electronic ignition (not ridden in 8 years :bash: ).
RW
 
jeober said:
Hmmm, that doesn't sound heat related. I would have guessed that the oil is overfilled and the crank throws are whipping up the oil.

I guess I better leave this thread alone now :)
The foam was in the valve cover, were the oil cap is. There is was, white foam. I have always changed the oil myself and I do check it. I know foam can happen when you overfill. I don't think this was the problem. Also, I found out the big heat wave was 1980, not 1982.

By the way, the 1970 144 Volvo was my favorite car. It died when it was hit by a big ass Ford LTD.
 
Two of my neighbors own the 144. One guy has over 300,000 miles and the other has just less than 250,000 miles on it. I liked the way the P1800 looked. I own a 5 cylinder 850 now.

Foam under the oil cap is very normal on some vehicles. It is water condensation from the head space (on top of the oil pan liquid level) which crashes out on a cold spot (the oil cap). Water is a by-product of combustion and it too slips by the piston rings along with other blow gases. It actually is not uncommon to see foam under the 4runner v8 engine, since the oil fill spout is so long (like a cold finger).
 
Does anyone remember setting the point-gap with a book of matches?

What actually worked the best was the old flip top soda cans. The tab was about right for vehicles that required a .019 gap. Just make sure the key is in the OFF position when you do it.
 
MikeInNH said:
What actually worked the best was the old flip top soda cans. The tab was about right for vehicles that required a .019 gap. Just make sure the key is in the OFF position when you do it.
Well I am glad you added the part about the ignition:D
 

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