Jacobzky
New member
interesting read here at
http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm
http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm
About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam. It was Quaker State oil. Ever since then, I have been using Castrol GTX. (Except when I use synthetic oil.) I know that Quaker State may be better now, but that incident really turned me off for good.MikeInNH said:I think most people are too young to remember when gas had lead in them. The switch to unleaded caused the same problems. Unleaded caused the engines to burn OVER 100 degrees hotter. Some oils like QuakerState failed miserably. Others like Castrol had no problems. These oil companies had to change their formula to account for the added temps.
A side note before all you QuakerState lovers send hate mail...QuakerState does NOT have this problem anymore. Their oils are as good or better then MOST oils out there.
Yea really!peter78 said:about 1% of the members NEVER change the oil. Who are these people? Can they post their VIN numbers so we know never to buy their vehicle?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=674
Does anyone remember setting the point-gap with a book of matches?
I think most people are too young to remember when gas had lead in them. The switch to unleaded caused the same problems. Unleaded caused the engines to burn OVER 100 degrees hotter.
About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam.
peter78 said:About 1982 when it was over 105 for days, I noticed my engine in my 1970 Volvo was making a noise. I pulled over and checked the oil, then the oil cap. The oil was all white foam. It was Quaker State oil. Ever since then, I have been using Castrol GTX. (Except when I use synthetic oil.) I know that Quaker State may be better now, but that incident really turned me off for good.
:clap: I used to do that with my 77' Yamaha RD400!jeober said:I was high tech and used a feeler gauge. Threw out my dwell meter and and timing light sometime in the 90's.
The foam was in the valve cover, were the oil cap is. There is was, white foam. I have always changed the oil myself and I do check it. I know foam can happen when you overfill. I don't think this was the problem. Also, I found out the big heat wave was 1980, not 1982.jeober said:Hmmm, that doesn't sound heat related. I would have guessed that the oil is overfilled and the crank throws are whipping up the oil.
I guess I better leave this thread alone now![]()
Does anyone remember setting the point-gap with a book of matches?
Well I am glad you added the part about the ignitionMikeInNH said:What actually worked the best was the old flip top soda cans. The tab was about right for vehicles that required a .019 gap. Just make sure the key is in the OFF position when you do it.