SOLVED! Key unlocks/locks front driver door but not passenger

[Deej101]

I'm sure there's a logical explanation.

The only key I got from the PO unlocks and locks the driver side door, unlocks/locks the glove box, but only locks the passenger front door.

The fob locks/unlocks all, but there are issues with the anti-theft stuff that I'm trying to untangle, so I only use the key.

I've currently got the passenger lock cylinder out of the door, but don't want to start disassembling it if there is a simple answer.

What gives?

2001 SR5

Edit: oops, forgot to add that the key works fine on the rear hatch--locks, unlocks, window up and down

 

[JohnMc]

As a quick guess, I'd say either:
- the lock cylinder is sticky
- someone replaced it at some point

Does the door have the VIN sticker on it?

 

[Brian.]

First thought was Valet key but that should work in all doors, just not the glovebox. Second is that the pass door was replaced due to accident (or lock alone due to damage/failure).

My plan of attack would be to get a new key (I have a habit of always having 3 keys, 2 to use and 1 in the safe for backup) cut from VIN/code through the dealer. Know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that it's not the key. If that's not the fix, then you have 1 cylinder that needs to be modified to fit the rest (or repaired if it's something stupid like being gummed up with WD40 and dust).

 

[Ted02]

I had a similar problem when I bought my ‘02 4runner. I only received one badly worn key and no fobs. The key would only unlock the driver’s door and hatch.

My local lock and key shop cut a couple of new keys a little oversized to allow for the wear on my original. He said he could start out cutting a little big and then cut down as needed from there. First cut was perfect, and along with lubing the cylinders, fixed 90% of my lock issues. Next was ordering new fobs, and then new actuator motors on eBay. Actuators worked when the weather was cool, but poorly when hot.

After new keys, fobs, lock actuators and lubing the cylinders, everything works great now!

 

[Deej101]

As a quick guess, I'd say either:
- the lock cylinder is sticky
- someone replaced it at some point

Does the door have the VIN sticker on it?

Is there usually a VIN sticker on passenger door?

If it is due to replacement, how does that explain that the key will lock that door, but not unlock it?

 

[Deej101]

First thought was Valet key but that should work in all doors, just not the glovebox. Second is that the pass door was replaced due to accident (or lock alone due to damage/failure).

My plan of attack would be to get a new key (I have a habit of always having 3 keys, 2 to use and 1 in the safe for backup) cut from VIN/code through the dealer. Know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that it's not the key. If that's not the fix, then you have 1 cylinder that needs to be modified to fit the rest (or repaired if it's something stupid like being gummed up with WD40 and dust).

Eventually I will have a dealer make a new key, after I get the alarm thing figured out.

I think I will start pulling the cylinder apart to see if there's something obvious, like a tumbler out of whack. Always wanted to learn how locks work, guess that's today!

 

[Deej101]

I had a similar problem when I bought my ‘02 4runner. I only received one badly worn key and no fobs. The key would only unlock the driver’s door and hatch.

My local lock and key shop cut a couple of new keys a little oversized to allow for the wear on my original. He said he could start out cutting a little big and then cut down as needed from there. First cut was perfect, and along with lubing the cylinders, fixed 90% of my lock issues. Next was ordering new fobs, and then new actuator motors on eBay. Actuators worked when the weather was cool, but poorly when hot.

After new keys, fobs, lock actuators and lubing the cylinders, everything works great now!

When you say the key would only unlock the driver’s door and hatch, do you mean it won't also lock those?

As I just posted above, I'm about to examine the tumblers in the lock to see if I can learn more.

Thanks for the replies

 

[Ted02]

When you say the key would only unlock the driver’s door and hatch, do you mean it won't also lock those?

As I just posted above, I'm about to examine the tumblers in the lock to see if I can learn more.

Thanks for the replies

It’s been a couple of years now, but if my memory serves me, the key would only unlock the door. I remember having to lock by using the switch on the door panel and then shutting the door. The key wouldn’t work the passenger door at all. I don’t remember having problems with the key in the hatch. When the locksmith cut the new keys, it was instant success! He then lubed the cylinders with Tri-Flow lubricant, which made the key action even smoother. Like I said above, the worn key was 90% of the issue with mine.

Before doing anything on yours, I would try a fresh key first since you plan to have a new key cut anyway. Just my 2 cents based on my personal experience. Good luck!

 

[JohnMc]

Is there usually a VIN sticker on passenger door?

If it is due to replacement, how does that explain that the key will lock that door, but not unlock it?

Sorry, I didn't read closely enough and missed that part.

There is a VIN sticker on all doors, hatch, front fenders, hood, front bumper (rear?).

But if yours locks, but not unlocks, yeah, it's the right door. It's just a worn and/or slightly miss-cut key that will work on the slightly worn driver door but not the much less used passenger door.

 

[Deej101]

It’s been a couple of years now, but if my memory serves me, the key would only unlock the door. I remember having to lock by using the switch on the door panel and then shutting the door. The key wouldn’t work the passenger door at all. I don’t remember having problems with the key in the hatch. When the locksmith cut the new keys, it was instant success! He then lubed the cylinders with Tri-Flow lubricant, which made the key action even smoother. Like I said above, the worn key was 90% of the issue with mine.

Before doing anything on yours, I would try a fresh key first since you plan to have a new key cut anyway. Just my 2 cents based on my personal experience. Good luck!

Ah, ok, then it is really comparable--I wasn't sure if you meant it only worked on those doors but not passenger.

The irony is that a few weeks ago I had a spare key made while I was waiting for something else in a hardware store. I stashed that spare key away after verifying it worked on driver door and ignition (although, since it used my key as template, the same problem may exist vs a new dealer key from vin).

Will try it today. Thanks for the input.

 

[Deej101]

Sorry, I didn't read closely enough and missed that part.

There is a VIN sticker on all doors, hatch, front fenders, hood, front bumper (rear?).

But if yours locks, but not unlocks, yeah, it's the right door. It's just a worn and/or slightly miss-cut key that will work on the slightly worn driver door but not the much less used passenger door.

Huh, I didn't know that, will look today for the VIN sticker.

That's a really good point about the door key usage difference, hadn't considered it, but it's a great clue, thanks.

 

[Ted02]

Let us know the results of the new key. Good luck again!

 

[Deej101]

Let us know the results of the new key. Good luck again!

So.... turns out it wasn't the key, exactly, but the lock itself. Took hours of watching videos etc but I finally mustered the courage to disassemble the lock cylinder itself, whereupon several of the "wafers" fell out. First mistake was not leaving the key in while removing the cylinder--oops rookie makes rookie mistake--but to be fair, all the videos I watched showed the wafers having to be tugged out with pliers, so clearly something was up with this lock. Anyway, long story short (because I intend to do a full write-up on this as soon as I have time): I ended up having to file a tiny bit of the inside of the cylinder and a bit of the tops of a few wafers. That was my option of last resort because I needed to get the door handle back into the car. As soon as I can, I plan to remove the driver side lock and disassemble to compare.

Thanks to everyone for the input, much appreciated! I can finally open my passenger door with the key, although that may soon be moot(ish), as I've been working diligently to diagnose various electrical gremlins that have been precluding using the fob for such tasks (spoiler alert: it's the door sensor switches, oof!) But the learning journey has been--is still--worth it.

 

[Springbok12]

Thank you for this! A fresh key worked like a charm on my 2000 4Runner side passenger and back hatch doors.
Drove me batty. Appreciate this so much.

 

[brillo_76]

Powder Graphite and a New Key cut off the key-code can do wonders for these older warn locks. If the cylinders have never been changed. You can get the key code off the original build sheet most dealers can access. Its also on the passenger cylinder lock as well. The only exception, seems to be the rear hatch cylinder lock. If in the rust belt. Those rear hatch locks tend to seize and never will work unless rebuilt or replaced..:-(