So the last few months I've been getting this whirring sound, it sounds just like I have very knobby mud tires on. It seems to get quieter when I turn right. Its speed dependent not RPM dependent. I think I know what it is but want to see what you guys say to confirm it. Oh and I can feel it through the floor board when its at its loudest.
Sounds like I have mudding tires on.
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Billynath1988
Senior Member
Its your wheel hub bearings, change both front
gm350reratliff
New member
That would also be my guess.
adkfinn
Member
Third, this. If it goes away when you turn right I believe that would indicate that the right bearing is the primary culprit (ie. in worse condition), since turning right shifts the weight of the vehicle to the left and that wheel is experiencing the larger amount of weight and stress. I also agree with gmrateliff, might as well change them both.
Also, there is a user here ( [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION] ) who sells assembled bearings so you can do the job at home without a press. Looks like quality parts and good reviews, he is on my short list for spring parts shoppping, hth.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Yes [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION] is where I got my fully assembled hub bearings from, high quality stuff. Not even worth looking anywhere else honestly.
jfry008
New member
Good info here: https://youtu.be/YTS4ke7nViE
The video shows how to check for a bad wheel bearing and goes through replacing one.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Thank you for trying to help others with the video, BUT PLEASE DON'T ANYONE DO WHAT IS SEEN IN THIS VIDEO!!!
Most of Eric The Car Guy's videos are good to OK, BUT he failed BIG TIME on this one, the proper way to get the wheel bearing separated from the hub is with a hydraulic press and also to re-install it in the hub, Eric probaly did more damage to the 4Runner than what was wrong in the first place, not to mention destroying some of his tools!!
If he had done a little research on how to replace the wheel bearing he would have save of A LOT of time, grief, broken tools and further damage to the 4Runner and finished the job in an hour or less, not to mention looking like he doesn't know what he's doing!!!
EDIT: I will give Eric The Car Guy credit for one thing, he could of removed the video or replace it with a edited version not showing him not knowing what he was doing, thus by not do so he is owning up to his mistakes in this job, I'm sure he learned a valuable lesson on what not to do in the future!
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jfry008
New member
It's a good video to show how to check for a bad wheel bearing, about 52 seconds in.
I replaced both of my front hub assemblies with new ones supplied by nj636.
If you go that route, I recommend renting a 3 jaw puller and a tie rod separator from an autoparts store.
3 jaw puller will slide the hub assembly off the CV shaft easily.
I replaced both of my front hub assemblies with new ones supplied by nj636.
If you go that route, I recommend renting a 3 jaw puller and a tie rod separator from an autoparts store.
3 jaw puller will slide the hub assembly off the CV shaft easily.
nj636
Banned
The impact gun installing the cv nut is what got me
nj636
Banned
thank you!
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Yes one last error in his video, I guess he forgot to pickup a torquewrench at Harbor Freight when he got the slidehammer!!
BlackWorksInc
New member
To be fair, most shops just impact CV Axle nuts on and off (actually I find getting them off with an impact works better in many cases with an impact if you know what you're doing). Considering most wheel nut torques are north of 150ft.lbs I can't say I blame most guys for just short cutting it. Though I decided a while back to break that habit and start torquing everything a best as I can. Just sayin'. 
nj636
Banned
To be fair, most shops just impact CV Axle nuts on and off (actually I find getting them off with an impact works better in many cases with an impact if you know what you're doing). Considering most wheel nut torques are north of 150ft.lbs I can't say I blame most guys for just short cutting it. Though I decided a while back to break that habit and start torquing everything a best as I can. Just sayin'.
Not torquing a tie rod nut -- that is fine.
Sending a CV nut home with an impact -- not OK.
The torque value on the cv nut is what keeps the correct preload on the bearing. 400 foot pounds from an impact gun will wipe a bearing out quickly.
Already got your post bookmarked. Now just have to get he funds together. VA is screwing around with my GI bill money so its been tight lately.
nj636
Banned
Shoot me a PM we can work something out :thumbsup:
BlackWorksInc
New member
I'm not saying it's right... but there isn't a direct causality with hitting a CV axle nut with an impact and shortly thereafter wheel bearing failure. Also I'd estimate the "over-torque" value of more zealous guys to be closer to 200ft.lbs, maybe a bit higher than that rather than 400ft.lbs (at 400ft.lbs I imagine the threads and/or the nut would become very deformed and/or severely damaged). The factory calls for 173 ft.lbs for reference.
Again I'm not condoning the action, but it's very common in most every shop around; thank the flat rate system and profit margins for that.
nj636
Banned
I have been building these hub assemblies for 4 years now and have seen multiple bearings fail due to incorrect installation. From repair shops and individual customers not following the torque specification. There is a torque spec for a reason.
The cv axle nut is 35mm and the cv axle shaft is 26mm -- you will not deform or damage that easily.
My Snap-On 1/2" impact is capable of 810 ft/lb's. -- 200 foot pounds with an impact is very easy, with a breaker bar as well.
Not torquing or using an impact gun on the cv nut voids my warranty for a reason. The cv axle nut torque spec is not one you want to ignore. Think of it like the pinion nut on the pinion gear. Leave that loose or tighten too much and the pinion bearing will be smoked.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I'm not disagreeing with you on it, I'm just saying that aside from headbolts most shops don't torque anything really unless their guys are hourly. Most anywhere that's flat rate (which I imagine is about 95% of most shops) are punching work out at crap hours to try and make a living, so the German torque spec "gud'n tite" is what gets used a lot; 9/10 it works and that's how the businesses and industry are set-up unfortunately. I agree on the importance, it's why I decided a while back that I wanted to torque as much stuff as possible to the proper spec; despite it meaning I lose money on every job essentially. I agree that as technicians we should be "doing the job right", but realistically this industry has made it to where techs can't pay their bills if they even dare not to game the system.
Also if I was in your position I'd totally void warranty for not torquing the hub correctly. But I've also seen plenty of cars and trucks come back for 50~100k that haven't had issues after having CV Axles out. It doesn't make it right, but it at least it's not a 100% of the time thing like you're making it sound like.
Also I have seen CV axle threads be stripped out from over-torquing and using an impact. The shaft may be 26mm in diameter but the threads are barely a 1mm in depth in many cases and are a fine thread pitch. You'd have to hit an axle nut quite a bit to get it up to 300~400ft.lbs with a 1/2" Impact (like sit on it about 10~20 seconds, not 2~4 like most people do, I proved a point after someone laid on a nut with a 1/2" Snap-On gun that I recall is 1,000ft.lbs after 5 seconds they were up in the 300ft.lbs range way over spec).
Basically all I am saying is that I 100% agree with you that torquing the axle nut is critical and should be done properly (like most everything els eon the vehicle). I'm also pointing out that in the real world most every flat rate shop is zapping them on with a 1/2" impact to about 30~50ft.lbs over torque value and they don't all grenade within 10k of doing so. It's not right, but that's unfortunately the way the industry has influenced how work is done.
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