SRS warning light

[Rolling_Thunder]

So... day before my cross country trip I had my SRS warning light come on in my '98 SR5.... I read up in the manual I have that it simply states "go to dealership ASAP" --- I would rather diagnose what's wrong with it. I realize there are sensors in the SRS system present in the airbags and seat-belt retractors... any common issues that cause this ?

 

[Malcolm99]

If you look at the visor it says your airbags need servicing every 10years and every 2 years there after, although probably unrelated and I don't plan to have mine "serviced" lol. I would guess a bad wire or connection on the srs sensors located on the front inner frame rails or maybe the spiral cable in the steering wheel, doesn't sound fun to sort out or play with, so I would disconnect the battery when inspecting these items.

 

[Ship Pusher]

So... day before my cross country trip I had my SRS warning light come on in my '98 SR5.... I read up in the manual I have that it simply states "go to dealership ASAP" --- I would rather diagnose what's wrong with it. I realize there are sensors in the SRS system present in the airbags and seat-belt retractors... any common issues that cause this ?

The SRS warning light should be flashing a code. If you can ID the code it will point you to the issue. Mines been flashing for a while now and is telling me the passenger seat sensor needs recalibration.

 

[G_Raw]

In your engine bay diagnostic port take a wire to use as a jump wire and plug into AB and TC port. Turn key on to ACC position. Your cruise control light will have a seizure. Your air bag light will go on for 6 seconds doing it's normal self check. It will then do 1 second blinks for however many times, rest 2.5 seconds, then blink 1 second interval again, then 4 seconds off. This tells you your two digit code, then you need to look that code up.

Example: blink 6 times, off 2.5 seconds, blink 4 times, off 4 seconds is code 64.

You may have more then one code. So after the 4 seconds off it may start the second code...

Example: blink 6 times, off 2.5 seconds, blink 4 times, off 4 seconds, blink 3 times, off 2.5, blink 2 times, off 4 seconds. Codes 64 and 32


So watch it until the first code repeats...


Now that you know the code and where the problem is disconnect negative terminal and inspect/fix.

Once you fix the problem you need to clear the code. IT WILL NOT CLEAR ON ITS OWN!

Obd2 from dealer is best...make a friend in the repair section, bring him beer and hope he doesn't charge you...

Other wise with key in acc position using 2 long wire. Plug one into tc port and one into ab port. Starting with the tc port alternate grounding them on a body ground for 1 second intervals allowing .2 seconds between switching. Tc needs to be grounded 3 times and on the last one hold for a few seconds.

This is really hard. It will go

Tc ground 1 sec, no wires touch for .2 sec, ground ab 1 sec, no wires for .2 sec, tc ground 1 sec, wires of, ab ground 1 sec, no wires .2, ground and hold tc.

If done correctly your airbag light will hyper flash....code cleared.

Turn acc off.

Restart truck, if still no airbag light you have fixed it. If airbag light returns you did not fix problem...restart diagnostics and chasing the problem.


Hope that makes sense and good luck.

P.S. if you get code 64 it will be an open in right hand circuit. Options are poor connection at relay under intake box in engine, airbag behind glove connection, or passenger seat belt connection. I'd start with the seat belt...

 

[DaveL]

Just went through this a couple of months ago... The DTC (data trouble codes) activated through the diagnostic port jumper worked. It did do a good job of pointing to the problem area (passenger side seat belt). Everything in SRS that can cause an inadvertent actuation is color coded yellow wire. Even though the manual says you can't; I found several youtube videos of people testing their air bags and seat belt explosive charges using a multimeter (VOM) set on the ohms scale to measure continuity. Test continuity across the pins of the squib charge. Note: any kind of significant voltage will ignite the squib and cause the explosive charge to go off so be careful... and don't stand in the line of fire. For a seat belt you can send it off for repair. I used a place in Atlanta that promised a one day turn around (MyAirBag.com? or something like that). There are other repair places on line as well... about $120. Be careful sending it..... UPS wanted to confiscate it as "hazardous material" or charge a special fee....... Went to FedEx and they shipped with no problem (and yes I told them what it was). Installed and cleared the light.

The dealer will not allow repair of the seat belt but will insist on replacing the entire seat belt assembly ($450). The repair was about $120. MyAirBags also offered reset or repair of the SRS computer as well.... but don't remember them repairing air bags so if it is that you might just buy a used one.

At first, this seemed daunting but it was actually a simple repair once you get over the precautions of working with potential explosive charges. Just be careful.

The other alternative would be to but a 2-3 ohm resistor across the yellow pin connector to get rid of the light and make the computer "think" there was a good part attached...... but that could have all kinds of liability and insurance issues if they found it and "wonder why the SRS system didn't work right?". I would not recommend it.