Stalling at idle (traffic lights) with no Check Engine Light

clanofwolves

clanofwolves

New member
Hey guys,

My daughter's 2000 2WD is having stalling issues at stoplights. There is no codes that my Foxwell can find. She does have on her AC all the time, so that probably exacerbates the issue of stalling, but the issue is an issue regardless and it needs to be repaired.

We regularly do scheduled maintenance which includes clean the MAF sensor and the one under the intake manifold (with the coolant lines that attach to it) as well as plug wires which seem to hate to work very long on this engine for some reason. It has over 250K.

Any ideas?
 
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Have you checked the spark plug gap? I've had issues with stalling in other vehicles when the gap wasn't set correctly. It ran fine until you stopped for a light or stop sign, then it stalled. Set the gap and all went well after that. Just something to check
 
clanofwolves said:
Hey guys,

My daughter's 2000 2WD is having stalling issues at stoplights. There is no codes that my Foxwell can find. She does have on her AC all the time, so that probably exacerbates the issue of stalling, but the issue is an issue regardless and it needs to be repaired.

We regularly do scheduled maintenance which includes clean the MAF sensor and the one under the intake manifold (with the coolant lines that attach to it) as well as plug wires which seem to hate to work very long on this engine for some reason. It has over 250K.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Youve had this problem for a while. replacing the iac valve since you've cleaned it and clean the throttle body.
 
ArthurKotb said:
Have you checked the spark plug gap? I've had issues with stalling in other vehicles when the gap wasn't set correctly. It ran fine until you stopped for a light or stop sign, then it stalled. Set the gap and all went well after that. Just something to check
Click to expand...
I believe I gapped them correctly prior to the installation of the last set, but I will pull a few and check that; THANKS!!
 
clanofwolves said:
I believe I gapped them correctly prior to the installation of the last set, but I will pull a few and check that; THANKS!!
Click to expand...
The dual electrode spark plugs recommended for the 3.4L come pregapped. I know you said you cleaned it, but this is normally IAC behavior. It might be time to replace it since you have already tried cleaning it.
 
clanofwolves said:
Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Went through this last summer, IAC replacement resolved it. I know I cleaned mine thoroughly, I'm a motorcycle mechanic who's Used to cleaning carbs (sets of 4 with all sorts of small passage-ways). Cleaning made a little improvement but still had bad stumbling at idle on hot days. I opted for the whole throttle body, was about $100 more than just the IAC (which was ~$220 iirc) and gets you the throttle position sensor too.
 
Brian. said:
Went through this last summer, IAC replacement resolved it. I know I cleaned mine thoroughly, I'm a motorcycle mechanic who's Used to cleaning carbs (sets of 4 with all sorts of small passage-ways). Cleaning made a little improvement but still had bad stumbling at idle on hot days. I opted for the whole throttle body, was about $100 more than just the IAC (which was ~$220 iirc) and gets you the throttle position sensor too.
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Where did you get it?

Thanks in advance!
 
clanofwolves said:
Where did you get it?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Local dealer, online ordering is the cheapest pricing I can find anywhere and since they collect tax everywhere now I at least save on shipping.

Try Toyota Parts and Accessories - Official Online Store to see who's near you that does online ordering and check any that you'd be willing to drive to as there seems to be some leeway on pricing. My closest dealer is always cheaper than the next 2, and while I used to use their direct portal, I've found that that link tends to have even better pricing most of the time (talking maybe up to 10%).
 
clanofwolves said:
as well as plug wires which seem to hate to work very long on this engine for some reason.
Click to expand...

This is where I would start as u have something going on that is not normal, u shouldn't b going through wires, just a guess but the plug and wire tubes are socked in oil and causing u issues, the valve cover gaskets probably need to b changed and u need to retighten from time to time...
 
clearock said:
This is where I would start as u have something going on that is not normal, u shouldn't b going through wires, just a guess but the plug and wire tubes are socked in oil and causing u issues, the valve cover gaskets probably need to b changed and u need to retighten from time to time...
Click to expand...

I recently (last year) replaced the valve cover gaskets, wires and plugs. I pulled a few wires/boots and plugs and checked them and they are dry and look good.
 




I replaced the Idle Control Valve and she drove it and noticed it not stalling, but still hunting a bit at lights while the break is on in drive/stopped/idle. So it is better, but is there anything else I should look into?

Thanks so much guys!!
 
clanofwolves said:
I replaced the Idle Control Valve and she drove it and noticed it not stalling, but still hunting a bit at lights while the break is on in drive/stopped/idle. So it is better, but is there anything else I should look into?

Thanks so much guys!!
Click to expand...
I would give it a few days of driving to see if it goes away. Sometimes it takes a few trips for the ecm to relearn for a new part like that.
 
clanofwolves said:
I replaced the Idle Control Valve and she drove it and noticed it not stalling, but still hunting a bit at lights while the break is on in drive/stopped/idle. So it is better, but is there anything else I should look into?

Thanks so much guys!!
Click to expand...

The other component that might be out of spec is the maf, some do go bad. Also vacuum leaks.
 
clanofwolves said:
I replaced the Idle Control Valve and she drove it and noticed it not stalling, but still hunting a bit at lights while the break is on in drive/stopped/idle. So it is better, but is there anything else I should look into?

Thanks so much guys!!
Click to expand...

Glad you got it sorted. The other component that might be out of spec is the maf, some do go bad. Also vacuum leaks.
 
Bad Luck said:
I would give it a few days of driving to see if it goes away. Sometimes it takes a few trips for the ecm to relearn for a new part like that.
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I thought, and hoped, the same thing so I told her to drive it a few times, then let me know how its running.
 
spartacus said:
Glad you got it sorted. The other component that might be out of spec is the maf, some do go bad. Also vacuum leaks.
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Yeah, I have had MAF issues with my oldest daughter on her Chevy (that car sucked as a reliable vehicle and somehow destroyed them, along with transmission issues (don't get me started)). This one always looks fairly clean and I hit it with a short blast of MAF sensor cleaner every few years... and she doesn't throw a code like the Chevy did. As far as vac leaks, maybe I'll spray a little starter fluid here and there and see if anything ups the throttle. There are a few vac lines that might be original, but the main ones (like brake booster) I changed out years ago, nothing looks cracked, but one never knows as air can move in tiny gaps 'eh?
 
Last edited:
Could be the coils

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be not the spark plugs but the spark plug coils. Best of luck.
 
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