Startup issue/noise, Sometimes just click, No info adding up....?

[Dobe99]

Hi there,

This is so bewildering Im going to get right to it. So only sometimes (only happened 3 times in the last month) after startup the engine makes a crackly noise like dry leafs are under the hood, or plastic bag. That happened first like I mentioned about a month ago. This seems to happen when engine is cold, vehicle sitting for a while. If I turn it off to end the noise and start it up again the noise is gone, engine is normal.

About two weeks ago when I turned the key one day, it just clicked like the battery was completely dead. The batt is a rreally good one though only 2-3 years old. I tried turning the key a few more times and she started up without hesitation like the 3rd time. No crackly, bag, noise. This issue doesn't seem to be affected by cold or hot engine and has been happening fairly frequently (multiple times a week) but it always starts. Generally it seems to happen less when the vehicle is warmed up but not run hard.

Yesterday after it sat for 1.5 days no use, the runner just clicked at me on attempted startup. After the 4th try it going like nothing was wrong except that it was making the plastic bag leaf noise! I shut it off and the engine took a while to turn off, like 4 to 5 seconds and made made a kind of whining whirring noise as it did... I turned the key again and it started up purring fine. So I went to work and had no issues that entire afternoon (I use it for delivery) and it ran great the whole time and had no issues after multiple starts and stops.

There is no check engine light light. About 1.5 months ago I replaced the Oxygen sensor, and a few weeks ago Toyota replaced a fuel sensor. About a year ago the engine was partially rebuilt (due to a mechanic shop that dropped a coil pack bolt into the engine - the bolt got hung in a valve, luckily didnt damage anything so Toyota did the rebuild at the mechanics expense. Toyota replaced timing belt, water pump, valve gaskets, and checked everything while it was opened up) and the vehicle was purring fine until about a month ago as mentioned when the bag/leaf/crackly noise started. And now most recently the not turning just clicking, then turning right over like nothings wrong. Then the slow to turn off thing yesterday plus both other issues..

I have been great about oil changes, levels are normal. There is about 202,033K miles on her, it is a '99. I used a fuel additive/injector cleaner about a year ago that semed to help fuel econemy slightly and boost power ever so slightly I can't remember what it was. I'm wondering if another additive would be worth trying..

I mentioned the crackly thing to Toyota and they didnt know jack, had no ensight.

Help please! Thanks

-Javi

 

[RAD4Runner]

... it just clicked like the battery was completely dead. The batt is a rreally good one though only 2-3 years old. ...

What makes you sure the battery is a really good one? What's battery voltage under load?
Got bare, shiny metal tightly touching bare, shiny metal on all connections to battery?

... they didnt know jack, had no Insight....

We haven't, either, until we hear it. Video/audio recording?

 

[dozerfrelich]

Sounds like your starter is crapping out. Some times the plunger will stay connected and keep turning it after you stop turning the key and it would make sense why it took a while for the engine to shut down after you killed. Pull the cover off the contacts housing and try to look at them to see if they are worn or corroded.

 

[Stiles97]

Starter contacts will cause the intermittent no start/ click when they are worn. I imagine that once worn that they could also cause the starter solenoid plunger to stick due to higher amperage draw. Could be the plunger is worn/ dirty and sticking causing the starter run on ( your noise ) also. I didn't have your noise issue but did have very similar starting issues awhile back and the starter contacts fixed mine. Best I got from your description. Good luck

 

[fblainen11]

I had a similar but isolated incident a few weeks back. Additionally, my alarm would go off after the click. The click would happen and everything would go dead, then immediately after the alarm would go off.

While I wasn't sure what was causing it, I hypothocised that that click was drawing too much from the battery and the alarm system thought that the battery had been disconnected then connected again (any time I disconnect and reconnect the alarm goes off).

I figured it may be the starter. Battery was checked and fine.
The next day I go back to work on it some more, put the battery in and it starts right up with no issues.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I'd start with repairing the starter or replacing it which ever your comfortable doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

I would start with the battery because it's the easiest. First, make sure your battery connections are tight and corrosion free. To rule out a bad connection at the battery terminals, get one of the terminal cleaner tools at your local automotive store. Clean the posts on the battery and clean the inside of the positive and negative cables and reconnect. When you're at the automotive store, ask if they test batteries for free. I know for sure O'Reillys does. They can also check your charging system. If your battery tests fine, I'd then check for lose or corroded ground connections and check the power connection at the starter. If all that looks good, I'd finally pull the starter and renew the plunger and contacts in your solenoid.
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video you can use to pull your starter, renew the plunger and contacts in the solenoid and get everything put back together. In the video description, we give a much more affordable option for the plunger and contacts from an Ebay seller.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WV1t5-wcoOI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[4Reak Show]

...sometimes (only happened 3 times in the last month) after startup the engine makes a crackly noise like dry leafs are under the hood, or plastic bag. That happened first like I mentioned about a month ago. This seems to happen when engine is cold, vehicle sitting for a while. If I turn it off to end the noise and start it up again the noise is gone, engine is normal.

....it just clicked like the battery was completely dead. The batt is a rreally good one though only 2-3 years old. I tried turning the key a few more times and she started up without hesitation....Generally it seems to happen less when the vehicle is warmed up but not run hard

Yesterday after it sat for 1.5 days no use, the runner just clicked at me on attempted startup. After the 4th try it going like nothing was wrong except that it was making the plastic bag leaf noise! I shut it off and the engine took a while to turn off, like 4 to 5 seconds and made made a kind of whining whirring noise as it did... I turned the key again and it started up purring fine. So I went to work and had no issues that entire afternoon (I use it for delivery) and it ran great the whole time and had no issues after multiple starts and stops.
...bag/leaf/crackly noise...
And now most recently the not turning just clicking, then turning right over like nothings wrong. Then the slow to turn off thing yesterday plus both other issues..

Internet 8 ball says starter.

Let me know what place my horse comes in please.

Good luck

 

[gamefreakgc]

Also a vote on the starter, had the same exact issue 2 years ago. It's a frustrating job though, so make sure it's not the battery first.

 

[octanejunkie]

If your battery connections are corroded, white scale and dust on the cables and posts, clean that off. I prefer to make my own battery cleaner solution for that with baking soda and water.

I mix a tablespoon of baking soda into a 1/2 cup of water in a disposable cup. This is the dip cup for the cables. You can make two of these if you want.

I then take a teaspoon of baking soda and a tablespoon of water, and in a separate container mix to make a paste. You will smear this on the terminals of the battery.

Remove your corroded battery cables from the battery using a 10mm box wrench. Optionally remove the battery from the car to make dipping the cables easier. Submerge the positive battery cable in the solution in one disposable cup, it will bubble and foam like mad! Let it sit until the bubbling stops in a few minutes. Remove the cable from the cup and discard the mixture. If the connector on the cable end still has corrosion on it, make a fresh cup of dip and dip it again! You can also use a copper brush to brush off loose corrosion (mind your eyes) and for the deepest clean, remove the plastic from the connectors to allow the solution complete access to the metal connector.

After the corrosion has melted away, fill the cup with fresh water and dip the cable back in to clean off the solution. Again you can brush the connector with an old toothbrush and rinse in water. Dry the cable really well, blow out all the nooks and crannies with air, replace the plastic if you removed it, and coat the metal end of the cable with vaseline. Perform the same process on the negative cable. If you made two dip cups you can dip both cables in their own cup to save time.

With the battery out of the car, take a small brush or popsicle stick and coat the battery terminals with the paste you made. Let it bubble and work on all the corrosion. Rinse and repeat until no more bubbling. Dry off the terminals and clean any baking soda overspill off the battery.

While the battery is out of the car might be a good time to test or charge it, which will allow more time for the cable connectors to dry. If you have a battery charger, use it on the lowest charge rate and make sure your battery is not on the ground when charging. Set it on a block of wood or something else non-conductive. Once you determine the battery is good or charged. Reinstall it.

Return the battery to the car, strap it in and reconnect the cables. Corrosion at the battery terminals is usually due to resistance, or loose connections at the battery. Make sure the connections are tight and you are getting good metal to metal contact.

Check the positive battery cable connection at the starter, make sure it is tight and not corroded. Check the negative battery cable connection on the engine block and frame, make sure those are tight and not corroded. I like to apply dielectric grease over these connections.

I would start with the battery because it's the easiest. First, make sure your battery connections are tight and corrosion free. To rule out a bad connection at the battery terminals, get one of the terminal cleaner tools at your local automotive store. Clean the posts on the battery and clean the inside of the positive and negative cables and reconnect. When you're at the automotive store, ask if they test batteries for free. I know for sure O'Reillys does. They can also check your charging system. If your battery tests fine, I'd then check for lose or corroded ground connections and check the power connection at the starter. If all that looks good, I'd finally pull the starter and renew the plunger and contacts in your solenoid.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video you can use to pull your starter, renew the plunger and contacts in the solenoid and get everything put back together. In the video description, we give a much more affordable option for the plunger and contacts from an Ebay seller.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WV1t5-wcoOI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Dobe99]

I appreciate the support, I was all alone!!! Im far from being a mechanic so I researched the daylights out of what it could be and found minimal info besides possible battery issue, starter issue, and low oil..

It started right up purring beautifully this morning. After just sitting over night. Today I cleaned the battery and didnt drive it all day, I just started it up to make sure everything was good and it had no issues again. I have done two recordings now of it starting up fine.

The battery connectors were corroded but not badly. It was with me on the Oregon coast for the last two years and now we are in Portland. So maybe the slight corrosion on the battery connectors was the problem (crossing fingers) they are all cleaned up as of today. I might just take it to Toyota if the starter needs new contacts and show them the video given. Thank you for that walk-thru! I may do it myself too if I feel it enough.

Based off the three different symptoms I have a hunch it is something with the starter but who knows. I'll continue trying to catch the sound on recording. I didnt get a chance to get power supply tests done at O'Reillys today but will do that soon likely.

I really appreciate all the replies. I love this truck, it is pretty tough hearing her have issues and I am ready to get this fixed one way or another! I would definately prefer to do it myself. Thanks again for posting the vid. I'll let you guys know how it goes!

 

[RAD4Runner]

Looks like you've almost got it. However, it would help to know, next time it only -clicks, what exactly is clicking. Starter relay. Does starter solenoid click energetically? IF energetically but no crank, yes most likely the solenoid contacts.
If solenoid only faintly clicks or not click at all, problem is more likely upstream like weak battery. That's why we need to see your batt voltage under load (i.e., high beams on).
+1 on possibility of contacts sticking IF rough or pitted.
Pls keep us posted

 

[Dobe99]

It was a click from the starter. I got a great recording but am not sure hoe to post. I will post it if someone can provide link so that future peeps with sinilar issue may find guidance easier.

I really wanted to do it myself but wasn't sure if I had the tools needed to remove the starter. Last thing I needed was to get it partially disassembled then be left guessing with parts possibly getting disorganised. No garage or driveway here, just street. And I need my 4Runner for work. Luckily I had yesterday off from work and so I decided to just take it to Toyota. I showed them the recording and they diagnosed and they found a doohicky that went bad inside the starter, can't remember the name of it, it was a rod or coil or something. I mentioned the contacts to them and I think it was something else..But they replaced the whole starter and now all is well. For those who can adequately do the job themselves you will save about $400 minus the replacement parts you need to buy of course. My total came to $370 after a 10% discount. I'm just glad my 4Runner is purring again happily again every start.

Thank you guys for all the info, the guidance provided her is fantastic. Let me know if I should post that recording in this thread or if there's a better area. And if there's a link for a site to upload it with.

Much thanks!

-Javi

 

[mtbtim]

It was a click from the starter. I got a great recording but am not sure hoe to post. I will post it if someone can provide link so that future peeps with sinilar issue may find guidance easier.

I really wanted to do it myself but wasn't sure if I had the tools needed to remove the starter. Last thing I needed was to get it partially disassembled then be left guessing with parts possibly getting disorganised. No garage or driveway here, just street. And I need my 4Runner for work. Luckily I had yesterday off from work and so I decided to just take it to Toyota. I showed them the recording and they diagnosed and they found a doohicky that went bad inside the starter, can't remember the name of it, it was a rod or coil or something. I mentioned the contacts to them and I think it was something else..But they replaced the whole starter and now all is well. For those who can adequately do the job themselves you will save about $400 minus the replacement parts you need to buy of course. My total came to $370 after a 10% discount. I'm just glad my 4Runner is purring again happily again every start.

Thank you guys for all the info, the guidance provided her is fantastic. Let me know if I should post that recording in this thread or if there's a better area. And if there's a link for a site to upload it with.

Much thanks!

-Javi

Wow Javi, that's too bad you don't have a good location you can work on your rig. If you would have watched our video, you would have seen all the tools I used for the job. I'd bet money that all your started needed was a new set of contacts and plunger in the solenoid. The dealership is going to resell your starter for a nice profit. They got the money for the repair and will also resell your old one after a cheap fix.

Maybe you know somebody with a garage and a set of tools that could help you out in the future. Also, don't hesitate to ask this forum for help for anyone in your area that could assist you. There's 3rd Gen owners all over the country and I bet there's someone close to you that frequents this forum and would have been willing to help a 3rd Gen Brother out. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have helped lots of 3rd Gen owners local to us but we've also helped people a decent distance from us. [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] actually drove all the way down from the Los Angeles area so we could video the ABS Rear Axle Seal video. There was a dude visiting from Colorado, and [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I tag-teamed replacing the dude's LCA bushings.

DIYer mechanics like myself and many many others on this forum cringe when we hear how much people had to pay at a dealership or other shop to get work done. It's why many of us spend lots of time on this forum because we like to help each other out.

So, next time you have an issue with your rig, reach out to the forum to find someone local to you that can help you out. I bet you'll find several willing to lend you a hand and we usually work for cheap. The going rate for [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] is some tasty IPAs and lunch.

 

[johnbyebye]

It was a click from the starter. I got a great recording but am not sure hoe to post. I will post it if someone can provide link so that future peeps with sinilar issue may find guidance easier.

I really wanted to do it myself but wasn't sure if I had the tools needed to remove the starter. Last thing I needed was to get it partially disassembled then be left guessing with parts possibly getting disorganised. No garage or driveway here, just street. And I need my 4Runner for work. Luckily I had yesterday off from work and so I decided to just take it to Toyota. I showed them the recording and they diagnosed and they found a doohicky that went bad inside the starter, can't remember the name of it, it was a rod or coil or something. I mentioned the contacts to them and I think it was something else..But they replaced the whole starter and now all is well. For those who can adequately do the job themselves you will save about $400 minus the replacement parts you need to buy of course. My total came to $370 after a 10% discount. I'm just glad my 4Runner is purring again happily again every start.

Thank you guys for all the info, the guidance provided her is fantastic. Let me know if I should post that recording in this thread or if there's a better area. And if there's a link for a site to upload it with.

Much thanks!

-Javi

Wish I had seen this thread sooner. Where are you on the Oregon coast?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Wow Javi, that's too bad you don't have a good location you can work on your rig. If you would have watched our video, you would have seen all the tools I used for the job. I'd bet money that all your started needed was a new set of contacts and plunger in the solenoid. The dealership is going to resell your starter for a nice profit. They got the money for the repair and will also resell your old one after a cheap fix.

Maybe you know somebody with a garage and a set of tools that could help you out in the future. Also, don't hesitate to ask this forum for help for anyone in your area that could assist you. There's 3rd Gen owners all over the country and I bet there's someone close to you that frequents this forum and would have been willing to help a 3rd Gen Brother out. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have helped lots of 3rd Gen owners local to us but we've also helped people a decent distance from us. [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] actually drove all the way down from the Los Angeles area so we could video the ABS Rear Axle Seal video. There was a dude visiting from Colorado, and [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I tag-teamed replacing the dude's LCA bushings.

DIYer mechanics like myself and many many others on this forum cringe when we hear how much people had to pay at a dealership or other shop to get work done. It's why many of us spend lots of time on this forum because we like to help each other out.

So, next time you have an issue with your rig, reach out to the forum to find someone local to you that can help you out. I bet you'll find several willing to lend you a hand and we usually work for cheap. The going rate for [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] is some tasty IPAs and lunch.

I hope the OP can find help, after doing the job myself it was frustrating and took a while. I think it's beyond the skills of a beginning DIY mechanic, I would not want that to be anyone's first job!

To the OP: if you go to any auto parts store they will normally test your battery for free, so you can rule that part out too.